Topic: Jigsaw Replacement mk2
Standing on the shoulders of tek and his/her extruder replacement that does away with the jigsaw puzzle:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/385/jigs … placement/
All of the base designs come from the files posted in that thread and linked to on Thingiverse and great credit should go to tek.
The advantages of the original:
Very easy to take apart and reassemble
Uses only printing parts and original nuts, bolts, washers, etc
Better access to filament drive for cleaning mid print
Spare parts can be printed and available unlike acrylic jigsaw
The improvements of my design:
Filament guide to prevent buckles
Better positioning of stock spring to improve performance to factory levels
Shape made to trap nuts and stop them spinning (easier assembly)
Spring sub-assembly can be removed without undoing any other parts
Please note: The pictures in this guide show my replacement hot end. The standard hot end will fit perfectly as well.
Step 1: Print Parts
Print the two parts found on my thingiverse link:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34936/
I recommend at least 50% fill for strength. No support material is required.
The only other parts required come from the original acrylic extruder. Disassemble this apart from the small section that holds the bearing. This should stay in one piece. Put the rest away for a rainy day.
Step 2: Clean Bores
To ensure accuracy, take a ~3mm drill bit and rebore all holes (7) so that a M3 screw will fit through comfortably.
Step 3: Remove Support Material
Both parts have support material in place that has been designed into the STLs. Use a small, sharp knife to cut them off. The profiles of the parts after removing the support is shown below, outlined in red:
Step 4: Place Nuts
This design holds the four nuts in place so that no spanner is required. Place them (x4) as shown below:
Step 5: Assemble Base
Slide the hot end into place, and rotate the wooden block so that the holes line up with the base piece. Use the shortest M3 screws from the original extruder to screw in, ensuring the nuts stay in place. Don't do these up too tight or the wooden piece will flex.
Use the original bolt and nut to attach the acrylic bearing arm. Again, don't do this up too tight, it should be free to swivel.
EDIT: The thingiverse link now features a printed replacement for the bearing arm, thanks to the work of jefferysanders. You can use the original acrylic piece or this replacement.
Mount the base assembly on the carriage in the same way as the original.
Step 6: Assemble Top
Use two longer M3 bolts to attach the top piece as shown.
Now use two other longer bolts to attach the stepper to the base piece (not circled sorry).
Finally, place the longest M3 bolt in place in the top piece so it points to the right, lining up with the acrylic arm.
Step 7: Attach Spring and Nut
Place the following parts on the longest M3 bolt (same as the original extruder):
large washer, small washer, spring, small washer, thumb screw
Tighten the thumb screw until there is some tension in the spring.
Reconnect the wiring for your hot end and load up some filament. Enjoy your new extruder! It is robust and very easy to pull apart if needed.