1 (edited by lawsy 2012-12-30 09:14:38)

Topic: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Standing on the shoulders of tek and his/her extruder replacement that does away with the jigsaw puzzle:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/385/jigs … placement/

All of the base designs come from the files posted in that thread and linked to on Thingiverse and great credit should go to tek.

The advantages of the original:

  • Very easy to take apart and reassemble

  • Uses only printing parts and original nuts, bolts, washers, etc

  • Better access to filament drive for cleaning mid print

  • Spare parts can be printed and available unlike acrylic jigsaw

The improvements of my design:

  • Filament guide to prevent buckles

  • Better positioning of stock spring to improve performance to factory levels

  • Shape made to trap nuts and stop them spinning (easier assembly)

  • Spring sub-assembly can be removed without undoing any other parts

Please note: The pictures in this guide show my replacement hot end. The standard hot end will fit perfectly as well.

Step 1: Print Parts

Print the two parts found on my thingiverse link:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34936/

I recommend at least 50% fill for strength. No support material is required.

The only other parts required come from the original acrylic extruder. Disassemble this apart from the small section that holds the bearing. This should stay in one piece. Put the rest away for a rainy day.

Step 2: Clean Bores

To ensure accuracy, take a ~3mm drill bit and rebore all holes (7) so that a M3 screw will fit through comfortably.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/7671/02cleanbores.jpg

Step 3: Remove Support Material

Both parts have support material in place that has been designed into the STLs. Use a small, sharp knife to cut them off. The profiles of the parts after removing the support is shown below, outlined in red:

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/5271/03removesupport.jpg

Step 4: Place Nuts

This design holds the four nuts in place so that no spanner is required. Place them (x4) as shown below:

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2060/04placenuts.jpg

Step 5: Assemble Base

Slide the hot end into place, and rotate the wooden block so that the holes line up with the base piece. Use the shortest M3 screws from the original extruder to screw in, ensuring the nuts stay in place. Don't do these up too tight or the wooden piece will flex.

Use the original bolt and nut to attach the acrylic bearing arm. Again, don't do this up too tight, it should be free to swivel.

EDIT: The thingiverse link now features a printed replacement for the bearing arm, thanks to the work of jefferysanders. You can use the original acrylic piece or this replacement.

Mount the base assembly on the carriage in the same way as the original.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2192/05assemblebase.jpg

Step 6: Assemble Top

Use two longer M3 bolts to attach the top piece as shown.

Now use two other longer bolts to attach the stepper to the base piece (not circled sorry).

Finally, place the longest M3 bolt in place in the top piece so it points to the right, lining up with the acrylic arm.

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8489/06assembletop.jpg

Step 7: Attach Spring and Nut

Place the following parts on the longest M3 bolt (same as the original extruder):

large washer, small washer, spring, small washer, thumb screw

Tighten the thumb screw until there is some tension in the spring.

Reconnect the wiring for your hot end and load up some filament. Enjoy your new extruder! It is robust and very easy to pull apart if needed.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8468/07assemblycomplete.jpg

2

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

You sir, are a legend. Thanks to both you and tek for making life easy for us all.

3

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

No worries, glad to be a part of this awesome community.

4

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Will this work the printed dial indicator mount?

5

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

I haven't tried it yet with any of the previous mounts, but I will be designing, printing and releasing updated versions that do.

6

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Excellent I like it :-) Good work!

7

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

This is nice, I love how the community build something that might be better.


Is there any particular reason you'd want more access to the feeder? I've so far never had problems with that part of the assembly. I mean, I did one get some filament stuck when switching filaments, but that was easily resolved

8

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

If the hotend clogs, you need to take the whole thing apart.  And clog it will, sooner or later. I already managed to crack some of the acrylic parts while taking it apart, on top of that it takes something like 30 minutes to put the damn thing back together.

If this extruder works, I'll print a spare just in case and I'm set. If my acrylic cracks again, I either have to hope I can glue it, or order a $100 replacement.

9

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

I've had zero problems with this since printing.

The main advantage is being able to pull it apart very quickly. Combined with my replacement hot end, this job becomes a five minute task.

10 (edited by rtrski 2012-11-24 15:51:53)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Very, very nice!  I hope not to need it too soon, but probably will.  Last time I was opening my head to remove a little filament stub after retraction, with tweezers, a little wedge-shaped piece at the bottom middle layer, that provided one face of the final filament channel into the bushing that feeds the actual hot-end, just fell out.  I've been printing with it out so far (wasn't sure if it was loose on purpose, so you could get tweezers in easier? ...and didn't want to risk gluing it in and fouling my filament path with squeezeout) and haven't had any issues, but I suppose if the feed really gripped well and I wasn't heating enough I could see a filament buckle down in the open area....

Might go ahead and pre-print these parts and hold them aside just in case.  If my head breaks, it's a little late then to print replacements! smile

Another advantage of your design Lawsy is it looks like you could clean the hobbed surface with a toothbrush or whatever much easier....even mount a permanent brush on the backside of the extruder hub to continually clean, but that might spray dust all over the print surface...

11 (edited by jefferysanders 2012-11-26 05:15:06)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Added a tensioner part so the MK2 REDUX is now complete.  Grab that part from my original post, I will also post the package to Thingiverse tonight.

12

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

As in a replacement for the remaining acrylic part? I was intending to do that so that is great news if you have saved me the trouble. I imagine you would need to add some ribbing to achieve the required strength.

13

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

thank you jefferysanders for the fan part.

But actually it doesnt work. I cant get the Fan Redux on the nozzle. The cones are too long and the Fan Redux does have surfaces that colide with the nozzle head and the "wood- thingy"

I did make another Fan attachment but actually it didnt work either:)

14 (edited by jefferysanders 2012-11-26 14:07:43)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Yep Yep, I wanted to have a whole working replacement before I finalized the add-on parts.

lawsy wrote:

As in a replacement for the remaining acrylic part? I was intending to do that so that is great news if you have saved me the trouble. I imagine you would need to add some ribbing to achieve the required strength.

  It is seems very strong, I print at .22mm layer height with .15 honeycomb infill 3 perimeters.


breaker  wrote:

thank you jefferysanders for the fan part.
But actually it doesnt work. I cant get the Fan Redux on the nozzle. The cones are too long and the Fan Redux does have surfaces that colide with the nozzle head and the "wood- thingy"
I did make another Fan attachment but actually it didnt work either:)


I am sorry about that, I had it labeled alpha for that reason.  It will adjust the needed aspects today and release a BETA version.

15

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Thank You every one. This is truely a lifesaving piece.
Mine did not print as nicely as shown (That's expected, for obvious reasons...) But it DID work.
At least well enough to give it another go smile

16 (edited by jefferysanders 2012-11-27 21:14:12)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Tensioner Arm is back up and a great surprise...I am getting much better retraction now!!! So it has turned out better then I had expected.   I can see a much more defined and clear pattern where the hobbed nut is biting in.

17

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Jeffery would you like me to add your files to the thingiverse link with credit once you are happy with them?

18

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

That sounds fine to me.  I don't want to add more confusion by creating them on my Thingiverse account, I also thought it would keep development more concise by keeping it under your project heading. I will be stuck printing ornaments today for the ladies x-mas tree, but I am sure I can sneak in some dev time, as I want the starter pack done by Friday!

19

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

Good stuff, just post up here when the parts are ready.

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

lawsy, jefferySanders...allow me to gush...I wish I could shake your hands. By making these extruder designs and files available, you have allowed me to compensate for my extremely brutish first days with a valuable (in spite of the price) piece of equipment.

I found myself with two hot end jams early in my relatively new proprietorship, and, being what and who I am, in clearing them, managed to crush the crystalline palace called "the jigsaw" (mostly by apparently using and "inappropriate" method of jamming the hot end from revolving)  and exploded the pumice like volcano droppings covering the wired part of the hot end by uncovering and looking at it. A hot end assembly ordered from Solidoodle fixed one part of the problem, but only momentarily, as I am surely a repeat offender. I managed to use tie wraps, a bread wire-tie, and wire mounting clamps to hold and bias the fractured mess of acrylic together to print some really amazing stuff over the course of a few days, but, most importantly, your new extruder parts.

After the brief honeymoon, things got ugly and misshapen, and, recently, every print required me to stand and assist with the feed, and catch crumbling clear plastic chunks. The last thing I printed successfully in that configuration was the idler arm file recently posted, and anxiously awaited.

I decided I couldn't spend my entire retirement attending this really neat, but horribly broken,  piece of technology, and used my newly printed parts for a morning upgrade today, and my tech has arisen as a phoenix. The new extruder works like a mule. I've even already had a cold clog in the peek, successfully disassembled and re-assembled the lower parts to get back into production, giving hope to an otherwise hopeless mechanic.

Thanks very much...you've made my Xmas.

"Merely corroborative detail, intended to give artistic verisimilitude to an otherwise bald and
unconvincing narrative." Pooh in "The Mikado", Gilbert and Sullivan

21

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

That front plate might be a good place to work in a fan to blow on the peek to help potect it from overheating.

22 (edited by machenmusik 2012-12-21 15:16:41)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

fair warning, slic3r 0.9.7 appears to have taken some liberties with the redux pack file, blocks filled in that should have been hollow with thin support pieces, and strange block addition to the tensioner arm.  going back to printing separate tensioner arm(s) which appear to slice correctly, and original 2-part redux plate (hopefully the same will be true)

... nope, redux plate has same thing happening, so the replacement parts list I can successfully print consists of the two parts referenced in the original post, and the redux tensioner arm, which thankfully comprise a complete set

23 (edited by jefferysanders 2012-12-22 14:44:02)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

You do have to cut-out certain areas on the jigsaw so that you can insert nuts/bolts.  The tension arms should just need to be re-sized with a drill bit to re-use the current screws.   I will give them a look-over and test.  I am sure I printed them Sliced with 0.9.7, but I will check them again.  I will test print them this afternoon...I need to acquire lube and lubricate my z-axis...so much anti-backlash part testing...I can break down the whole z-axis and bed in about 3 min now and have it completely reassembled in 10...

24

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

I had to run them through netfabb before Slic3r would do it correctly.  It filled in the holes for the mounting plate.

25

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk2

IanJohnson wrote:

I had to run them through netfabb before Slic3r would do it correctly.  It filled in the holes for the mounting plate.

Sorry, Ian: it filled in the holes before netfabb or after?