Long time listener, first time caller (Page 1 of 3)

Well that's a bummer. I'm happy to send you some.

They can be printed or skipped altogether, they're just meant to hold the main support in place while you drive the screws in underneath. If you use another block of wood or something to hold it perpendicular while you drive the screws, you can skip them.

I may be over thinking this, but I'd rather be safe and ask.
The nipple will not thread all the way unless I apply a concerning amount of force. Obviously, this prevents the hopper from sliding all the was to the flange.

I have been browsing the "...in the wild" thread and I've seen at least one where the threads were visible.
Thanks for any/all responses

NPT pipe threads are tapered, they don't go in all the way.

The hopper doesn't need to slide up to the flange, just centered over the cutout is fine. The cutout was moved away from the flange to allow clearance for enclosures and large hoppers.

Almost done wiring, but for the life of me I can't get the auger/coupler to stay put against the motor while compressing the thrust bearing. Any tips?

Also, upon inspection on other units among the forum, I've found others have 5 boards sandwiched whereas mine has 3. Is this a concern or effect operation?

Assembly has taken longer than I had hoped due to an insane schedule. But I felt like sharing something I whipped up.
A mount with lid for the Stall Protection board. Openings on the face and sides for wire paths and adjustments as well as view of the LEDs

Thanks! I'm hoping the board doesn't overheat. With a heatsink and an opening or two, I think it will be fine.
I have an Akita/mix, so an excessive amount of dog fur (which gets everywhere) is a concern.

For some reason I wasn't able to add the files for those wanting to make this.
EDIT: Must have been a fluke. STLs have been added

I run those boards at about 1/3rd of their rated capacity. It shouldn't get hot unless you're setting it above nominal current.

You'll want to do autotuning with the fan on for best results, the fan changes the thermal dynamics.

You probably didn't tighten the barrel enough, no worries. Just remove the 4 bolts, slide the barrel+auger assembly out, rotate 90deg, reinstall. As long as the cutout is within 45 deg of vertical you're good to go.

I reassembled three times today and the pipe is still rotating
https://vimeo.com/135195343
At the end of the video just as I shut the motor off, there was a pop and seemed like there was an alignment shift. Everything is tight as a drum and seems straight, so I'm wondering if the pipe is a little twisted at the nozzle end?

Saw both responses you made.
1) I know it was under temp by a crapload. After the last attempt at purging, I turned off the motor and left the heat on for a few seconds to clear ooze a bit more from behind the nozzle so I can turn it for a split second once reassembled if it still turned. It was an attempt to save time from heating all the way up, let sit, then see if I failed.
2) The instructions said to let it sit for 10 minutes...I'll try 15 next time
3) This happens even when reaching temp and the pipe turns within a minute of operation, so I think your original post on SP may be the solution. The turns made are to be done after bottoming them back to zero, correct? May be a stupid question, but I know some manufacturers have a standard setting the prefer shipping out at.

I haven't messed with the SP, but I let it bathe for 20min this time and I got several yards without rotation. Thank you!

I have noticed there are kinks in the filament. The end of the barrel is rotating 360 degrees (slowly) as the auger turns which is what I believe is causing this effect. I'm thinking either the support isn't square with the motor, or I should just go vertical and be done with it. Maybe both.

I'm ecstatic with the Filastruder!

Just an update:
I nearly eliminated the waves by holding the Filastruder vertical briefly during operation.
I am still purging, but I am happy to report .02+/- diameter consistency.