PID tuning heatbed fail, "timeout"... what? (Page 1 of 2)

The reprap wiki said to run the autotune on the hotend when its cold. So I assumed the same was the case with the bed.
If you'll look at the times of the log messages, you'll see exactly 10 minutes passed when it gave the timeout error. So Im guessing there's a force quit time hardcoded.

The C8 in the end tells it to run the autotune 8 times. I read somewhere its for running it few times and getting more accurate results. But all that seems to do is just run it 8 times and spit out Kp, Ki and Kd values 8 times...

10minutes is really not enough for this.

You will see the KP, Ki and Kd spit out eight times you will want the last set before you see the "PID AUTOTUNE FINISHED".

OK, so I tuned both bed and hotend.
Still horrible warping...

I use a couple pieces of regular window glass I cut over a year ago.  A few spritzes of Aqua Net Unscented hair spray, and I literally have to pry the prints off the glass with a razor blade. 
That's one thing I don't worry much about any more - there are plenty of others...

Yes, I use hairspray.
I've tried both light coating and several layers. This problem has been around for couple of months and I've tried dozen of prints with no luck.
I've also tried glue sticks which don't seem to work for me at all.
I'm not from US and we don't seem to have Aquanet or Elmer's glue sticks specifically. But the chemicals in the hairspray are listed on the package so i can post them here.

Hairspray seems to keep things on the bed the first few layers, but when I print more, more and more warping happens starting from the edges.
So If I print something which is just few mm, it will remain stuxk on the bed and rather hard to take off, so I guess the hairspray is doing its job.

I was printing one of the direct drive mod pieces to give it a try as my couplers finally arrived.
Here's the final print, even more warped:

I have a Solidoodle 4 with the stock enclosure.
I've replaced the stock heater pad insulation mat but then put it back on with some double sided tape. During this I accidentally took some part of the kapton tape under the heater pad off with the stock double sided tape, but there wasnt anything under the kapton tape, so I don't think it could have such an effect. Plus I've pid tuned the bed now...

Pretty much the settings I use, first layer speed is 30%...
Except for "incredibly level bed" because that's subjective and hard to know unless you have a dial indicator.
All I can say it seems level with the paper calibration and the bed level test prints (checking diameters of large cubical or circular lines) and the parts that stick are pretty hard to peel off.

And yeah, that's Solidoodle natural (no colorant) ABS filament. Everyone should have gotten a sample of it with their machine.
I can try a different filament but shipping will take a while. Can you or anyone else maybe use the sample roll of solidoodle filament if you still have it and see if it warps for you as well?
I'd be really surprised if it was a filament quality thing. We would have a lot more incidents reported here and how can it be so bad to even warp a 3cm diameter print? Hard to imagine.

Am I right to assume from what you said that you also have lifting but the lifted area and height is much smaller?

Many people here like me buy a roll of filament with their printer and have them shipped together.
And Presses come with a roll of filament anyway, so people are of course using them.
I wouldn't buy from them filament separately because as you said it's expensive. But it's not true that pretty much noone uses their filament either.

So I'm skeptical that this definitely a filament issue, because we'd probably have several threads already about this.
I went ahead and bought a different spool for comparison, but itll take few weeks to arrive.

Meanwhile, is there anything else that might be going on? Maybe something damaged in my heatpad?
Anything else?

Hm, very interesting. Never heard about such close high temp being bad, only lower than 90 being bad.
Any article about that? I'm surprised I haven't read about such a thing yet.

It's hard to tell if bottom edges (layers?) are shrunk as the whole object is warped.

I've read in lots of places to use 110C for bed. Mainly so the edges of the bed will get hot enough for adhesion too.
But I'm sure I've tried from 90C up.
Like here http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … e-Settings

The print aove was done at 110C.

I can try one more time at 100...

Slic3r settings:

It's a good theory, but I think for you it was just a coincidence.
I printed the owl model ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18218 ) at 100C to see if there's any difference. To make it fill the bed more, I scaled it in X and Y axis by 1.5.

After about 20 layers, the lifting was already visible.

on front and at layer 54 I just stopped the print as I was just wasting filament.

Previous print was worse because it had holes in the surface area/ less contact surface. Apparently that makes warping worse.

Anyway, most of the warping was in front, but also a tiny bit of lifting in the back as well.

More photos: http://imgur.com/rXxTK89,l40rfAB,rDyPb3 … QRzBjNo#35

I guess a brim would help if it was like 3cm+ around the model, because that's how deep the lifting went.

I will. But since you say you don't have a problem without it I fear that's not solving the real issue.

Warping the glass? O_o
Didn't even know that's possible. It's 3.6mm thick. Thanks, I'll try without them.
Do you mean the glass might be warping mid print? How? Because just printing 1 layer and checking the extruded width on each edge gives pretty consistent result.

Thanks. I guess that'll help.
Here's mine:
http://makeupandbeauty.com/nova-gold-su … ay-review/

I'm pretty sure I'm not overextruding. Looks like a bit underextruded since there's a tiny gap between the perimeters.

When using a high infill I wait til the second layer and spritz some acetone with a needle just around the inside brim. That causes the print to anchor to the glass .