Just finished a print and had no squishing on top

only thing I noticed was after about 75 layers for some reason the print shifted about .5mm along the X-axis.

Would it be possible for someone to configure this code to make it make sense to the printer.

G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
G28 ; home all axes
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axes
G91
G1 Z10 F5000; move bed down
G90; use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 F5000; move to front
@pause
G29; probe bed
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
M190 S75 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S190 T1 ; set temperature
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

Or is this correct going to test it now: Worked but I think I got some extra Codes that are un-needed (Worked/Not Working)

And I just realized in my post above that you really shouldn't need to use something "longer than the nozzle" versus your lowest nozzle...I just called back on what I did with my home-built machine before I installed the carriage

But, yeah...if your auto-leveling was being cancelled out by the G28 that explains a lot.

G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
*
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axes
G91
G1 Z10 F5000; move bed down
G90; use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 F5000; move to front
@pause
G29; probe bed
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
*
M190 S75 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S190 T1 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S190 T1 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
T1

between the *'s is the code that I've been pasting in and the place that I paste it. I'm not that great with code but it seems only a few lines of the code I am pasting is necessary. Should I instead paste it between the G28 and the G1 Z5 F5000. Then i won't be over writing the G29 command with the G28.

Although it is critical that both nozzles touch the bed at the same time, the bed must still be as parallel with the entire X movement as possible.  Otherwise, even if both nozzles are parallel to the bed at, say the bed center, then once the carriage moves in the X axis, the gaps would increase or decrease.   

Now, while the auto-leveling routine should compensate for this by adjusting the Z movement during the print, it may get slightly out of whack with respect to one nozzle or the other.

My advice would be to take something that is a bit longer than the distance between your X carriage rods and the bed while the nozzles are not touching it; then use that to get the bed as parallel to the rods in the X axis as possible using the wing nuts.

Then, bring the bed up to the lowest nozzle, and adjust both nozzles so they touch the bed equally.

Now adjust the bed in the Y AXIS ONLY to get that correct to the nozzles.

You would still need to adjust the Z stop (probe) to home Z properly as well and not crash the nozzles into the bed; but at that point, both nozzles should be parallel and equidistant to the bed as possible in all bed positions.

Again, I do not own an Apprentice, so take this advice with a grain of salt, but this is the route I would take to minimize any mechanical issues…

sorry bout the crappy imgs all i have right now is my vita to take pics.

Link to imgur: My slic3r settings
https://imgur.com/a/pguXG

Thank you guys for the help it is really appreciated.
Wouldn't have gotten this far if it wasn't for yall.

well yar i put some on there and didn't really do much so i cleaned it off.

Editing as to not double post.

So i've got it starting off good but now after about 15-20 layers the print head is now squishing into my print seems it starts and each layer it puts down is actually pulling it closer to the print.

Are you getting lifting after 15-20 layers...if your nozzles are set evenly with respect to the bed, then neither one should dig into the print.  Pics?

Editing as to not double post.

So i've got it starting off good but now after about 15-20 layers the print head is now squishing into my print seems it starts and each layer it puts down is actually pulling it closer to the print.

tried leveling it with paper just barley touching each extuder on all four corners. I Have only 3 clips on my bed as thats what it came will would that be holding the other corner in the air? theres two up front and one centered in the back.

Anyway to just take take 2nd hotend off? just eliminate it altogether?

M303 E-1 S90 C8

E-1 = Bed Heater
S90 = Target Temp
C8 = Number of cycles to run test

Make sure the bed is heated to near the temp required or the sequence will time out.  Once you get the final PID numbers, you will then need to plug the final results back into the firmware.

BTW, PID autotune will not enable your bed to heat any more efficiently or faster, it just helps the system maintain better control over the targeted heat level.