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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Part not sticking to bed
We just got our machine today and have tried running a simple part.
Have the bed temp set to 80 like suggested, but halfway through the build I noticed that the part was warping up off the bed and then it moved and ruined the rest of the build.
Any one run into this issue? and what is the fix for it?
thanks
Check out this post, it will cure what ails you.
80, is, (in my experiance) far too low.
I've never gotten prints to stick at 80.
Try higher, the lowest that I've ever gotten is to work with is 85,
but get better results at between 90 and 100.
Also I find that if I reduce the temp halfway through the build to 80, the part will come unstuck because it warps.
Thanks for the info cmetzel and danny. I've tried a part with the bed at 90 and it stuck through the whole build, though it was beginning to lift on the ends as it was warping. I'll try 100 next to see if this will keep it stuck.
For some parts, a wide 2mm brim will help.
Bear in mind, if your current part has warping problems and little surface area, and then you fix it up with hairspray and everything to improve adhesion, don't proceed later to do a part that covers the whole bottom and be surprised when it's stuck way too hard to the bed & you rip the kapton (like I did, last night.)
I thought I had the hang of things, but today has been frustrating. The attached photo shows what is going on. Some of the bottom sticks, but some does not. I am cheating towards the near left to avoid a low spot on the bed on the far right, but that did not do the trick. Running with an enclosure in place to keep things warm. I guess I'll have to raise the bed temperature from 85 to 95 and try again. Any other thoughts? Does the kapton degrade over time? I did clean it with acetone.
I'm not sure if you've tried hairspray yet but it works wonders.
Does that look like only not sticking to you guys? Looks like something else messed up to me.. Flow rate or bed level or something. Mine don't looklike that when they don't stick.
Assuming that is only one layer thick it can be a lack of stick. Once the first part doesn't stay put, the nozzle continues to rub against it, ruining the new strands as it goes. I had similar trouble when I first got my printer.
I'm not sure if you've tried hairspray yet but it works wonders.
Nope: I've not tried that.
How much is enough? Just a dusting? A soaking?
How do you spray it onto the kapton without getting the rest of the printer internals covered?
I just held a piece of paper curved around the bed to screen the rest of the printer.
I've never bothered. I figure as long as I lubricate the rods from time to time it won't be a problem.
Something else is going on, hairspray with the kapton is just a band aid.
that's a pretty serious low spot!!
I have a similar low spot, but mine is further towards the back right, having a low spot in the middle is just damned unlucky.
I've two suggestions.
the first is a bad fix.
set your bed height so that it should work on all places on the plate.
by this I mean, you want the middle at say 0.35mm, then the edges of your warped plate are going to end up really close, probably 0.2mm
you're going to see distortions over pretty much all of your print this way, but hopefully they should at least stick.
the other (much better way) will be to put a sheet of glass on top of the bed to that it's level. (though this does involve finding a new way to alter the bed levelling screws.)
some people have gotten around this by printing some thumb screw type attachments, personally I plan to use a dremel cutoff wheel to cut a slot so I can adjust it using a screw driver.
I'm not sure if you've tried hairspray yet but it works wonders.
Hairspray had no affect at all, sadly. I've printed some fairly large things in the past, but suddenly, nothing works.
I have re-leveled the bed (as best I can, since there is a low spot on the far right). It is set so that a piece of paper just barely makes it under the print head for everything but the far right; the paper measures 0.10 mm thick.
Bed is set to 85 degrees, and extruder is at 195.
I've gone from happy production oriented guy to frustrated head scratching guy
I have two glass plates, which I could try to use, but the kapton was working well for a while, and now suddenly parts of it are not.
I put a glass plate on, using springs as clamps (see photo). The glass plate is held in place with a clip on the near right and far left. The depression on the far right is still obvious when using paper. That is, the lack of flatness in the bed is mirrored in the glass. I had not expected this at all
Time to get a new bed, I guess. Frustrating
Set your bed to 100 instead of 85, and print the first layer at 200, then you can step down to 195.
I put a glass plate on, using springs as clamps (see photo).
How mechanically inclined are you, and do you have access to a surface plate and indicator? You could take the aluminum bed off and flatten it, it should bend without too much force. If you don't have that you could find a very known flat surface and put it kapton side down and see if it's rocking and tweak it in. If you don't feel comfortable don't do it because you could make it worse in a hurry.
I have a complete machine shop (lathe, mill, band saw, sheet metal bender, etc), but I have never been very confident about straightening a bent rod, or flattening a plate. I could use a fly cutter to flatten the surface, but putting something as thin as that plate in a vise is almost certain to deform it. I have flat surfaces, and I have an indicator. Given that I need to get rid of a warp of 0.010", I imagine that I could easily end up in worse shape than now.
I'm puzzled why the plate of glass, which is only held in two diagonally opposite places, would not end up flat. Perhaps I should rotate the glass around, to see if I can find an orientation that works better
All of this may have to wait a few days. Turkey calls...
Is your printer square?
Table 90 deg to Z axis and parallel to X Y movement?
You could shim under the glass to raise up the low area.
With a dial guage you could map your entire bed and know
where the potholes are?
Set your bed to 100 instead of 85, and print the first layer at 200, then you can step down to 195.
He may be having the same problem as me if using Slic3r. My first layer temperature setting doesn't do anything. I had to manually turn up the extruder temperature to 198 when it starting printing. Seems to work so far....
I've been having issues with thick-section parts curling slightly at the ends or corners well into the build, like after a part is over 3/16" or so.
Bed is flat and level. Running 200 on the extruder, 100 on the bed at all times.
The prints look great at first, but once they get up there in thickness and material volume they will start to curl a bit by the time they are complete.
Any tips for this?
Are you using the cover, or another enclosure? Sometimes it helps if the entire bed area is warm. You could also check the temperature across the bed: the edges could be cooler than the center. Bumping the bed temperature up a tad might help.
I have the cover but when I use it I find I break the filament occasionally at the extruder head due to the sharp angle it must bend due to the cover being so close to the head.
Might have to make something that actually works, since it does hold a fair amount of heat inside when it is on.
I have not yet had an issue with the case jamming or snapping filament, would feeding in your filament underhand cause more pressure on the filament that could cause this?
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