Extreme Curling Issue. (Page 1 of 2)

There's a couple of things that could help. Is there any option to modify the design at all to reduce the forces involved?

Otherwise, you can probably use an ABS & Acetone mix to 'glue' down the print.

I throw scraps from the printer in a small acetone proof (held nail polish remover) bottle with acetone in it. I use a paint brush to paint this down on the glass at the edges of my print.

A mix the consistency of milk is fine, it evaporates on the hot glass very quickly, but anything printed over it wont come off the bed, and hence keeps that warping in check.

It's MUCH stronger than hairspray.

I really can't use Acetone. This is not a well ventilated area. I do have a respirator for when I steam cook models in Acetone, but indoors I would not try to speed evaporate the stuff.

Why clean the bed after each use and then put hairspray back on?  You are just removing sticky hairspray and ABS residue.  Let the glass season and build up layers of hairspray and ABS.  I never clean mine, and only add hairspray if I am going to print something that I think has a higher chance of warping.  If you are concerned about discoloration on the bottom of the print, maybe clean the plate when you are changing colors, or give the stained section a quick sanding and acetone wipe.

I wasn't be crass. I took the photo through the plexiglass enclosure. I wasn't sure if you could see my fingerprints all over it. lol. I've certainly scratched it a few times. lol.

Thanks Ian. I'll give it a shot and clean less often.

But it smells so GOOD!!!

In all seriousness though, do you have an actual problem with Acetone? Because the amount used is negligible, just a small hobby paint brush to paint on a few small patches in the lift prone spots. I hardly even notice the smell.

The tips about less infill and leaving voids in the print are also really helpful. I quite happily use 5% infill on things, though it doesn't help a large flat base, the voids will help that.

Elmoret, you need to paint your nails more- there are a lot of non-acetone removal systems =]

[At least, my sister uses something without acetone]

So.

That print looks like it takes half your bed. I wouldnt even touch that without a brim. Seriously, it makes a huge difference. Its extremely easy to cut off (and sometimes it just pulls off).

Also, if you put a single void right in the middle of that huge thing, you would be eliminating most of your stress that is pulling it up.

And lastly, I have heard on another board that if you use Elmers glue stick on your bed, it works almost as good as an ABS slurry. If fumes are a problem, this may be worth a try.

While these 3 suggestions may not seem like something you want to do, I am willing to bet you wont get that print without doing all three at the same time.

Slic3r adds it automatically on the first layer only.  It is kind of like adding extra perimeters that go outside the model rather than inside, creating an outline of a width specified in the settings.  The idea is that the shrinking that pulls up the edges can only act on the print itself. Since the brim is only the first layer, most of that shrinking force won't act on it, so it can stay stuck to the bed and help hold the edges down.  Someone suggested that spreading a little acetone on the brim with a paintbrush after it has been printed will help it stick even more.

It's in the slic3r configs, not Repetier.

It's actually in Slic3r.  You can access the configs through the configure button, which runs an instance of Slic3r.  Once there, you change your settings and save them.  When you close the Slic3r instance, the settings are transferred to RH for you to choose from.

In Slic3r under Printer Settings, you'll see Skirt and Brim.  Change the value for Brim Width to whatever will work for you then save your settings.

I usually go for a 3 to 5mm brim depending on the object. If I'm printing a bunch of small tall things putting them close together and having their brims become one really helps keep them from getting knocked over.

in any way, were you thinking about iron cast pans?lol.

you need to spent more time looking at the configurable fields in your RH. it will help.

If you must print this piece in solid, you might want to increase each layer's time, and lower the print speed. so each layer has more time to spread it's heat and the temperature for the whole piece is more uniform...

on top of that... did the lifting occurred on 5th layer? that's too soon... you might want to do a first layer configuration again...

I dont think anyone asked this question yet... what's your room temperature? winter is coming...