solidoodle ->3<- the plastic lifts, oh the liftings!

Aqua net hairspray on the bed.

how large is your brim? mine is about 1.5 to 2mm

I have tried up to 1.5mm

If you can't make it, steal it! That's what I always say. Just kidding.

Oven mitts work well for removing the glass with the print from the heated bed. Plus they look cool.  I went with a slightly more expensive route and got 8x8 borosilicate glass sheets. You don't generally have to worry about heating and cooling rates under 150C with this glass. (No shattering glass from thermal shock) http://airwolf3d.com/store/products/bor … ass-plate/ (I am sure a quick google could come up with cheaper pricing)

They are also like 10 times the price. I think as long as you don't have any little kiddies around and you don't mind running the risk of having some glass break, whatever you get from Joann's should be fine.

Regarding etching of glass ... wouldn't a wet sanding with 25micron grit (or something coarser) accomplish the same thing while avoiding chemicals?  Or am I missing something?
Matt

on which layer are you experiancing the warp/ lift?

I was having similar problems, and no matter how much ABS-acetone mix, hairspray and tape I put on my glass plate, it would not stick.  The problem turned out to be that Slic3r was using a z-offset value of 0mm, which means that the first layer was printed afer moving the z stepper down .3mm, leading to bad adhesion.  After changing it to -.2 in slic3r, My prints stick really well.  So well, in fact, that yesterday, even after trying ice to de-stick the part, a piece of the glass broke from the plate and is actually stuck to the part.

In slic3r go to Printer Settings -> General -> Z offset:, and change the value to -.2 or something close to that.

Once this change is made your first layer MUST be thicker than the offset value, which isn't a problem if using the Solidoodle default profiles (.1mm profile has .3mm first layer).

@RavensCrest, The reason I do that is because it only affects the Slic3r output. When using another slicer such as KISSlicer, it doesn't move the bed down the .3mm before printing the first layer (at least repetier says).  This realization came to me after every KISSlicer print I made stuck to the bed, and every Slic3r one had warping. I was about to give up on making slic3r prints stick!  I still set my Zstop and level my bed using the paper and thumbscrews, but unless the nozzle is right on top (scraping) the bed, the first layer will be slightly more than .3mm thick when using Slic3r. I toally get what you're saying about not trusting the software to do that stuff, the issue is that if I were to adjust the hardware as needed for Slic3r (manually raising the bed another ~.2mm), other slicers then are way too close to the bed when extruding the first layer.

That's just my reasoning for it however, and there are usually many more ways to solve a problem than one.