all metal hot-ends

Those are very nice hot-ends, and the price isn't bad either. I wouldn't want to pay the shipping from GB though.

I fixed my melted peek with a 6mm helicoil from ORiley auto parts cost 24 dollars for a kit of 6.
Make sure your pid is set right so it don't over heat and melt the peek

The helicoil is a smart fix for the peek problem. You are inserting metal threads into a piece of threaded plastic. It will certainly give it more strength and make it possible to unscrew multiple times for cleaning.

I guess you has to re-tap with the special helicoil tap right? Nice fix...

Good luck with the stainless barrel. This is what the QU-BD extruder has and if you go over to the QU-BD forum, you'll see all the problems with it. The only difference I see between the two is the coldend is alum finned instead of a block of alum with a fan cooled heatsink on it.
I have made a lot of different variations of the stainless barrel and none worked 100% of the time. The only way I could get 100% reliability out of them is with PFTE tubing installed inside the barrel.

Let us know how well it works.

Rodney

I was wanting to get red of the Peek. their is nothing on the all metal hot-end to melt
and is cooled with a fan. I am going to hook up a 4 channel thermal data logger
because I have had too many peeks melt after PID tuning o I want to monitor both ends of the hot-end
the bed and the enclosure so I can compare them with Repetier-host.
With an all metal hotend  I will be able to print with plastics that require higher temps.

on a small scale that's not too difficult.

for someone at home, with the facilities to make something like this, (a lathe) provided that they take their time etc this can be done effectively.

The trouble is that it falls apart en-mass, if you're qu-bd and you're trying to ship out as much parts as possible then a time consuming low return high rate of QC failure parts are not a good idea.

that's the problem really, me, at home, I don't really mind spending a day carefully lapping and polishing the inside of my stainless steel barrel, (in fact I'm actually planning on doing this).

you as a printer owner, don't really want to pay for my time to do this.

kind of goes back to the discussion on what time is worth etc, if I want £10 an hour to stand in front of my lathe, and it's going to take me ten hours to make the part, that's a significant cost to you. in solidoodle land it's nearly 25% of the cost of a complete new printer.

The only reason that you really want to upgrade to an all metal nozzle is to increase the temperature range, and hopefully print in polycarbonate or peek, or PTFE. (is anyone even providing these materials in filament form yet?)

but given that the solidoodle already has the temperature range to print PLA/ABS/Nylon/LDPE and HDPE you'd have to be making something pretty special to actually require polycarbonate or peek.

Another reason that you might want an all metal hot end is that your thermistor came loose and the hot end got too hot and melted the peek causing the brass barrel to drop out.
but it probably makes more sense to find a better way of affixing the thermistor than it does to completely remake the hotend!

If you have the facilities to do this at home, or have a friend that you can blag into this on a low cost basis then making an all metal hot end is a pretty cool experiment, but most people just don't need an all metal hot end.