I see that some are having jamming problems with the E3D.

Here is the link to how I use the stainless barrel now and have no issues with it.
http://www.buildlog.net/forum/viewtopic … amp;t=1977
The great thing about my barrel is if I do over heat it, just change out the PTFE tubing.

Rodney

Prusa has said that the only way he could get a stainless barrel to work is for the inside to be polished.  I don't know if they are doing that with the E3d.

on a small scale that's not too difficult.

for someone at home, with the facilities to make something like this, (a lathe) provided that they take their time etc this can be done effectively.

The trouble is that it falls apart en-mass, if you're qu-bd and you're trying to ship out as much parts as possible then a time consuming low return high rate of QC failure parts are not a good idea.

that's the problem really, me, at home, I don't really mind spending a day carefully lapping and polishing the inside of my stainless steel barrel, (in fact I'm actually planning on doing this).

you as a printer owner, don't really want to pay for my time to do this.

kind of goes back to the discussion on what time is worth etc, if I want £10 an hour to stand in front of my lathe, and it's going to take me ten hours to make the part, that's a significant cost to you. in solidoodle land it's nearly 25% of the cost of a complete new printer.

The only reason that you really want to upgrade to an all metal nozzle is to increase the temperature range, and hopefully print in polycarbonate or peek, or PTFE. (is anyone even providing these materials in filament form yet?)

but given that the solidoodle already has the temperature range to print PLA/ABS/Nylon/LDPE and HDPE you'd have to be making something pretty special to actually require polycarbonate or peek.

Another reason that you might want an all metal hot end is that your thermistor came loose and the hot end got too hot and melted the peek causing the brass barrel to drop out.
but it probably makes more sense to find a better way of affixing the thermistor than it does to completely remake the hotend!

If you have the facilities to do this at home, or have a friend that you can blag into this on a low cost basis then making an all metal hot end is a pretty cool experiment, but most people just don't need an all metal hot end.

Let us know how well it works.

Rodney

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai … d=helicoil

Maybe I should start a helicoil service.

Here is a picture of my HeliCoil Peek
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?actio … r=282t2140

I guess you has to re-tap with the special helicoil tap right? Nice fix...

I fixed my melted peek with a 6mm helicoil from ORiley auto parts cost 24 dollars for a kit of 6.
Make sure your pid is set right so it don't over heat and melt the peek

Show us. I imagine this is an interesting hack.

.... I wouldn't want to pay the shipping from GB though.

Its only 9-quid, or about $13 US for shipping to the US (and same to Australia)... Not being smart, but its cheaper than you'd probably charge to send out a Hot-End The USPS pricing caused me to choke when I ordered my SD3 ($120 shipping!) and you want nearly the same again to order Filament (hence I haven't ordered filament from you)

So I just ordered one, set me back $75 Australian *shipped* ..  about the going price of a shipped J-Head with bits... with the $5 hobbed gear, $2 worth of plastic for a MK4 extruder body and a $10 NEMA-17 motor, it works out to a $92 Hot-End shipped and in my hands!

Will let you know what its like when I get mine in about 4 weeks.. (3 weeks lead time, 1 week shipping)

In the last few months I have had 3 peeks melt so I am looking into
upgrading to an all metal hot-end.
if I get a hot-end with a fan do I need to have the fan run all the time like the extruder fan is.
Is anyone in the community using this one. 

http://e3d-online.com/#/shop/4567186838 … nd/3077284

Those are very nice hot-ends, and the price isn't bad either. I wouldn't want to pay the shipping from GB though.