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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → How sticky is hairspray for printing?
How much more sticky would hairspray be as a means of making intial layers stick to the platform, as opposed to simply using hand sanitizer? I don't know what is in most hairsprays, but I worry that if I were to make something that a child could play with it could be hazardous with additional chemicals possibly fused in there. Say 3 times as sticky?
I couldn't get my print to stick to kapton with hairspray... a note to everyone: i tried to use alberto european hairspray and it did not work at all.
ABS juice did tho.. so that's what i'm printing with
Hand sanitizer is what I use to clean the bed but I don't use it to make the prints stick. I use hairspray on glass, but it's equally important to have an enclosed build environment.
Hand sanitizer is what I use to clean the bed but I don't use it to make the prints stick. I use hairspray on glass, but it's equally important to have an enclosed build environment.
I'm not sure that I agree that it helps that much. As for hairspray - I know that the American Aqua net hairspray works nicely. Possibly because it is horrible as a hairspray.
there's a joke to be had about aqua net there. can't find it at the moment.
Im not saying the enclosure aids in the actually bond, but it reduces the amount that the abs wants to warp thus reducing the need for as much bonding agent.
I don't think the hairspray is especially sticky. I think the important thing is the texture it creates, adding more surface area for the plastic to bond to.
I couldn't get my print to stick to kapton with hairspray... a note to everyone: i tried to use alberto european hairspray and it did not work at all.
ABS juice did tho.. so that's what i'm printing with
What is ABS juice?
Acetone with a small amount of ABS dissolved in it. It is the most guaranteed method of getting a print to stick, but it is easy to overdo it. I just saw a post someplace where someone put down an additional layer of tape with a folded over edge sticking out past the model area. The idea is to use it like the ribbon you pull on to pop batteries out of their holder, and hopefully lift an edge enough to get the scraper under.
Level bed + glass + hairspray = perfect 1st layer everytime.
Level bed + glass + hairspray = perfect 1st layer everytime.
How does the glass method work? I've not seen any photos of it. What type of glass? What size? And how do I get it to stay in place on the flatform? Also what temperature do I need to make the glass hot enough?
Level bed + glass + hairspray = perfect 1st layer everytime.
Enclosing your build area makes it better too!
Just search glass bed and you're bound to find at least 3 threads on the subject.
I have mine enclosed with the following:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
I use 3 clothes pins to hold it onto the bed. Bed temp is set at 95. Glass is 6x6 cut out from glass from a picture frame I picked up cheap at walmart.
If you scroll about half way down on the link above you can see my setup.
I have mine enclosed with the following:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
I use 3 clothes pins to hold it onto the bed. Bed temp is set at 95. Glass is 6x6 cut out from glass from a picture frame I picked up cheap at walmart.
If you scroll about half way down on the link above you can see my setup.
If I use picture frame glass should I remove the Kaplan tape, or just keep it? Clothes pins huh? Are they wooden? I'd hate to start a fire. lol.
I left the kapton tape on. Yeah I use wooden clothes pins, but it's only on while I'm around....mostly 
Guess I should find something a little different since I have noticed some dark spots on them LOL. I did have some binder clips, but they were the huge ones and they would put so much pressure on the glass ends it would cause the glass to bow up in the middle about 1-2 mm.
wire10ga wrote:Level bed + glass + hairspray = perfect 1st layer everytime.
How does the glass method work? I've not seen any photos of it. What type of glass? What size? And how do I get it to stay in place on the flatform? Also what temperature do I need to make the glass hot enough?
I found 6" and 8" mirrors at the picture frame department at Walmart, under 4.00 each for the 8". These work great. You will have to print the z-stop replacement part and install to use the glass. I have stopped using Kapton, just use ABS glue instead, sprayed lightly on mirror. Prints stick great, and remove easily. I spray the ABS glue while mirror is removed from print bed to avoid spraying plastic on my beautful machine! I use small clips, can't really describe them, but can be bought in office supply department at various stores. I think they are called binder clips or something, come in large (too big) and small (just right).
Rocketman wrote:wire10ga wrote:Level bed + glass + hairspray = perfect 1st layer everytime.
How does the glass method work? I've not seen any photos of it. What type of glass? What size? And how do I get it to stay in place on the flatform? Also what temperature do I need to make the glass hot enough?
I found 6" and 8" mirrors at the picture frame department at Walmart, under 4.00 each for the 8". These work great. You will have to print the z-stop replacement part and install to use the glass. I have stopped using Kapton, just use ABS glue instead, sprayed lightly on mirror. Prints stick great, and remove easily. I spray the ABS glue while mirror is removed from print bed to avoid spraying plastic on my beautful machine! I use small clips, can't really describe them, but can be bought in office supply department at various stores. I think they are called binder clips or something, come in large (too big) and small (just right).
What is the z-stop replacement part? Why should the printer require extra parts just to put a slab of glass down? Creating a lot more space between the extruder and the flatform, sure, but what would i need to create a part for? Is it really needed? I don't want to rely on a part I make with the printer in general, but certainly not a part that needs to be created prior to me getting the quality of print up via glass and enclosure.
Just invert the z stop screw that way you don't need to make or change any parts..other then the screw. Once you put the glass on the bed you just raised the bed up the amount of the glass thickness.. of course the printer does not know you did this so changing the z stop screw essentially tells the printer you did.
you have four choices... (1) printing the new part, (2) inverted screw in the stock zstop, (3) go to the hardware store and buy yourself a longer screw, (4) use a m3 motherboard standoff from an old computer.
It's a little silly to say you don't want to rely on a piece you print in your printer. You'll soon come to learn that there are lots of little and not so little parts you can print to tweak and improve upon your printer; filament guide, wire guide, thumb screws, z-axis antibacklash piece, tension gauage, replacement pieces to have on hand, and many many more. If you look, you'll see that most of the plastic parts in the machine were originally 3d printed by Solidoodle.
The printable lowered z-screw mount can be found here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40701
An extensive list of printable Solidoodle mods can found here:
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/modifications
you have four choices... (1) printing the new part, (2) inverted screw in the stock zstop, (3) go to the hardware store and buy yourself a longer screw, (4) use a m3 motherboard standoff from an old computer.
It's a little silly to say you don't want to rely on a piece you print in your printer. You'll soon come to learn that there are lots of little and not so little parts you can print to tweak and improve upon your printer; filament guide, wire guide, thumb screws, z-axis antibacklash piece, tension gauage, replacement pieces to have on hand, and many many more. If you look, you'll see that most of the plastic parts in the machine were originally 3d printed by Solidoodle.
I honestly unscrewed he whole Z stop screw bracket and flipped it upside down, then adjusted accordingly. The difference between printing with the heated bed and Heated bed+Glass+Hairspray is insane, Now I just need to figure out how to enclose the top of my printer, and maybe buy a heat gun to speed up the bed temps.
I would say to print the cable bundle guide too.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know the bed leveling screw size? I'd just like to put a few nuts on each one until I print the knobs.
According to this post:
http://www.soliforum.com/post/2266/#p2266
M4 hex nuts will work for you.
For a sweet cheap top enclosure, check out:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
According to this post:
http://www.soliforum.com/post/2266/#p2266M4 hex nuts will work for you.
For a sweet cheap top enclosure, check out:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
I would use the party tray, but I need to figure out if the filament would run through the top. Here's a crude case, that I shambled together, I have yet to cut the plexi to size, but it stays rather toasty inside (Minus the giant home in the Top)
nickythegreek wrote:According to this post:
http://www.soliforum.com/post/2266/#p2266M4 hex nuts will work for you.
For a sweet cheap top enclosure, check out:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/I would use the party tray, but I need to figure out if the filament would run through the top. Here's a crude case, that I shambled together, I have yet to cut the plexi to size, but it stays rather toasty inside (Minus the giant home in the Top)
Take a look at my enclosure. You may have to adjust the top holders if your sides are cut to a different length. Also I feed the filament through the back. With my bracket I find that my spool doesn't get as tangled.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1588/my- … enclosure/
Take a look at my enclosure. You may have to adjust the top holders if your sides are cut to a different length. Also I feed the filament through the back. With my bracket I find that my spool doesn't get as tangled.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1588/my- … enclosure/
I really liked your enclosure idea 
Right now my Filament sits above the printer and feeds from the top (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1623/how … -filament/) so I'll need to maybe cut a square hole in the top?
paeltz wrote:Take a look at my enclosure. You may have to adjust the top holders if your sides are cut to a different length. Also I feed the filament through the back. With my bracket I find that my spool doesn't get as tangled.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1588/my- … enclosure/I really liked your enclosure idea
Right now my Filament sits above the printer and feeds from the top (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1623/how … -filament/) so I'll need to maybe cut a square hole in the top?
As long as the spools aren't directly above the printer it would probably still work. From the picture I can't see exactly where your printer is setting.
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