SD Workbech prints uneaven layer thicknes and warping

Your bed is not level which is why one side looks good. Many users with Solidoodle's bed probes report issues. This is more prominent (more accurately, most reported) among Press users.
You can adjust the bed manually via the 3 screws on your bed. Turning clockwise lowers the bed, counter raises it.

Additionally, if you are printing ABS, remove the painter's tape. That is best for PLA. ABS requires Aquanet Super Extra Hold or a glue stick for maximum adhesion.

Glue sticks and Aqua Net are proven to work on glass.

Like I said, if you are printing PLA, keep the tape. If ABS, take it off. Once you start printing large parts, you will see significant lifting. ABS can work on painter's tape, yes, but only for small prints. The moment you get into larger footprints, the more significant risk of lifting.

And also,

When i tried to print some small objects. say 15x6x15 I got a very nice print at 100 feedrate, so i did it again at 300% feedrate, they look identical even measure identical with the caliper.

Why would one want to print so slow as the default when it seems to work on 300%

perhaps one should just leave the glue on after print, never remove and hope it gets better and better

Your bed is still not leveled and/or your probe is not working correctly.  Leveling the bed is not a 2 minute task where you just get it close.  It should take multiple calibration prints and carefully watching that first layer for the perfect amount of squish.  By cooling fan, do you mean a fan on the barrel of the hot end or pointed at the nozzle?  If you mean a barrel fan, there is no such thing as too much here.  You want it to cool the barrel to prevent heat creep up the filament, which can lead to clogs.  If you mean a nozzle fan, turn this off entirely for ABS (unless you can set it to turn on only for bridges).  ABS likes to cool slowly to prevent the layer separation that you are experiencing.

How do you know that?  I wouldn't trust the probe read out, there can be play in that too.  The picture shows the nozzle printing way too close to the bed on one side, thats why it looks like nothing is coming out.

i use a probe to measure the table, not the Z sensor/probe.
move the nozzle around and probe with my tool.

But its very correct as pointed out, the glass bed is not very flat. if i make the 4 corners good, the middle will be quite alot off. say more then 0.4!

but still i can print 1-20 layers perfect with very good adherance to the tale, its normaly layer 30+ that start to have problem with layers not sticking good to eachother.

Then it sounds like your temp may be dropping during printing. Have you watched the temp in the problem area to see if it is stable or lower? You could have too many fans or they are running too much may need to take some off or put them on a PWM controlled output so you can control their speed.

Filament already sucks heat from the hot end if you feed fast. Fans will only add to this issue if they are not controlled.

But then this may not be a the problem at all if the temp remains stable.

Hi gripner,

I have the same problem , if you look your printer , when the extruder is going for the center of glass bed is when you see that has a bad filament like the last picture that your send us.

if you tried to adjust the z axis could you see that badder or a little better but always you can see it because the platform does not is perfectly parallel. If you have idea or can solve this problem please tell me what or how you?

How you connect your workbench with solid print?
Can you explain me?