Topic: Solidoodle 3 with PT100 Thermocouple.
I upgraded my solidoodle to use a PT100 Thermocouple so it can print up to 400C. Here is what I learned.
-You need an interface board so the PT100 can interface with a printerboard. E3D sells a kit that includes the interface PCB and PT100 sensor.
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … 100-sensor
-The sensor out will need to go into an empty analog pin on the printerboard. It cannot go into the old pin location do to the 4.7k pull up circuit on the original thermistor location.
-A Pin Header must be soldered into the PCB in the EXP 1 location so we can access an unused analog pin. This pin is right next to the xyz and e stops. Be careful. It looks like the PCB was reflowed so all the thru holes are filled with solder. I individually soldered in each pin since I couldn't do a whole row at once.
A good place to see the pinouts for the PCB is listed here.
https://labitat.dk/wiki/Panelolu_and_Pr … e_easy_way
-In the EXP1 area I am going to use the 5V and GND to power the interface PCB. Also in the EXP 1 area I am going to use the pin closest to the EXP1 screen print on the board. This pin is the analog pin 2 (A2)
http://imgur.com/JChoxmO
The Marlin Code is setup for the PT100 to use the 2nd analog pin. You must just edit to code so it will look at analog pin 2 now as opposed to the original pin 1. In the pins.h tab the following changes must be made.
From
#define TEMP_0_PIN 1 // Extruder / Analog pin numberingTo
#define TEMP_0_PIN 2 // Extruder / Analog pin numbering-The firmware will need to be updated for the calibration of the PT100. In marlin firmware the sensor “20” has the programing curve ready to use. In the configuration.h tab the following changes must be made. Make sure to get the latest thermistortables.h from the Marlin Github. The solidoodle fork does not include the PT100 table!
From the E3D thermister
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6 //{SD Patch}To the new PT100 sensor.
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 //{SD Patch}-Max temp in the firmware must be updated to allow the unit to hit the 400C.
From the 310 from the wiki for the E3D (or 250 pre E3D number)
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 310 //{SD Patch}To 410 (I wanted a little bit of headroom.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 410 //{SD Patch}-A 12v or 24v 25-30W heater (the stock E3D heater with blue wires) will not get the nozzle up to 400C. You must upgrade to a 40W heater (red wire) to achieve and maintain temperatures of 400C.
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … -cartridge
Thanks to elmoret for the help!
PS. Some history of why the 25-30W heater is now standard.
A bit of background - 40w heaters were standard for a long time, because that's all that was available. The problem with 40w heaters is that in the event of a controller failure, they can reach temperatures over 500C in some cases. This causes the heater block to melt and presents a fire risk. As a result E3D transitioned to 25-30w heaters by default, and optionally 40w heaters for folks like yourself.
