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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Solidoodle 3 with PT100 Thermocouple.]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/13005/solidoodle-3-with-pt100-thermocouple/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in Solidoodle 3 with PT100 Thermocouple..]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 03 Dec 2015 17:24:10 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Solidoodle 3 with PT100 Thermocouple.]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/110844/#p110844</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I upgraded my solidoodle to use a PT100 Thermocouple so it can print up to 400C.&nbsp; Here is what I learned.<br />-You need an interface board so the PT100 can interface with a printerboard.&nbsp; E3D sells a kit that includes the interface PCB and PT100 sensor.<br /><a href="http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-pt100-sensor">http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … 100-sensor</a></p><p>-The sensor out will need to go into an empty analog pin on the printerboard.&nbsp; It cannot go into the old pin location do to the 4.7k pull up circuit on the original thermistor location.&nbsp; </p><p>-A Pin Header must be soldered into the PCB in the EXP 1 location so we can access an unused analog pin.&nbsp; This pin is right next to the xyz and e stops.&nbsp; Be careful.&nbsp; It looks like the PCB was reflowed so all the thru holes are filled with solder.&nbsp; I individually soldered in each pin since I couldn&#039;t do a whole row at once.</p><p>A good place to see the pinouts for the PCB is listed here.<br /><a href="https://labitat.dk/wiki/Panelolu_and_Printrboard_the_easy_way">https://labitat.dk/wiki/Panelolu_and_Pr … e_easy_way</a></p><p>-In the EXP1 area I am going to use the 5V and GND to power the interface PCB.&nbsp; Also in the EXP 1 area I am going to use the pin closest to the EXP1 screen print on the board.&nbsp; This pin is the analog pin 2 (A2)<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://imgur.com/JChoxmO" alt="http://imgur.com/JChoxmO" /></span><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/JChoxmO">http://imgur.com/JChoxmO</a></p><p>The Marlin Code is setup for the PT100 to use the 2nd analog pin.&nbsp; You must just edit to code so it will look at analog pin 2 now as opposed to the original pin 1.&nbsp; In the pins.h tab the following changes must be made.<br />From<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>  #define TEMP_0_PIN          1  // Extruder / Analog pin numbering</code></pre></div><p>To<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>  #define TEMP_0_PIN          2  // Extruder / Analog pin numbering</code></pre></div><p>-The firmware will need to be updated for the calibration of the PT100.&nbsp; In marlin firmware the sensor “20” has the programing curve ready to use.&nbsp; In the configuration.h tab the following changes must be made.&nbsp; Make sure to get the latest thermistortables.h from the Marlin Github.&nbsp; The solidoodle fork does not include the PT100 table!<br />From the E3D thermister<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6 //{SD Patch}</code></pre></div><p>To the new PT100 sensor.<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 //{SD Patch}</code></pre></div><br /><p>-Max temp in the firmware must be updated to allow the unit to hit the 400C.<br />From the 310 from the wiki for the E3D (or 250 pre E3D number)<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 310 //{SD Patch}</code></pre></div><p>To 410 (I wanted a little bit of headroom.<br /></p><div class="codebox"><pre><code>#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 410 //{SD Patch}</code></pre></div><p>-A 12v or 24v 25-30W heater (the stock E3D heater with blue wires) will not get the nozzle up to 400C.&nbsp; You must upgrade to a 40W heater (red wire) to achieve and maintain temperatures of 400C.<br /><a href="http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-heater-cartridge">http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … -cartridge</a></p><p>Thanks to elmoret for the help!</p><p>PS.&nbsp; Some history of why the 25-30W heater is now standard.</p><div class="quotebox"><cite>elmoret on Reddit wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>A bit of background - 40w heaters were standard for a long time, because that&#039;s all that was available. The problem with 40w heaters is that in the event of a controller failure, they can reach temperatures over 500C in some cases. This causes the heater block to melt and presents a fire risk. As a result E3D transitioned to 25-30w heaters by default, and optionally 40w heaters for folks like yourself.</p></blockquote></div>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (kthackst)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 Dec 2015 17:24:10 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/110844/#p110844</guid>
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