1 (edited by theman00011 2015-07-29 20:44:00)

Topic: Filament extrusion problem

So I have tried everything that comes to mind that I have learned over the years with my Solidoodle printers but I can't for the life of me figure this out. What happens in both Repetier Host and Soliprint (1.2.5) is I can let the stepper motor for the extruder turn just fine with no filament. I can press extrude as much as I want and it will stay turning. But, as soon as I insert filament and it gets to about the hot end, it can't be pushed through anymore. The stepper motor just grinds on the filament. So far I have tried:

1. Rebuilding the extruder assembly twice

2. Cleaning the hotend with a piece of wire many times

3. Changing extrusion temperature from 230C to 250C

4. Changed software

And probably more. I am at a loss for ideas now though. Any help is immensely appreciated, as I just want to start printing again.

EDIT: I forgot to add the printer. I am using a Solidoodle Press with stock extruder.

2

Re: Filament extrusion problem

what filament are you using?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

3

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Octave White ABS 1.75mm

4

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Can you push filament through the hot end by hand?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Only somewhat when I remove the hotend from the extruder assembly. I suspect a clog even though I can push plastic through with a hex wrench. Otherwise, when just pushing the filament through by hand, it is a slow oozing out and filament piles up on the entrance where it is being pushed in.

6

Re: Filament extrusion problem

If you've had that hot end apart there is a good chance things didn't get sealed up properly.  This will cause filament to leak into places it shouldn't be.  It might be time to consider an upgraded hot end.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: Filament extrusion problem

The actual hotend hasn't been apart. Only the extruder assembly surrounding it. I never actually removed the PEEK barrel or thermistor or anything.

8

Re: Filament extrusion problem

You are fighting a partial clog and may never completely clear it.  You should consider pulling it apart or soaking it in acetone if using ABS.  Pushing a wire up from the bottom only moves the debris up until it moves back down and clogs again.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Filament extrusion problem

wardjr wrote:

You are fighting a partial clog and may never completely clear it.  You should consider pulling it apart or soaking it in acetone if using ABS.  Pushing a wire up from the bottom only moves the debris up until it moves back down and clogs again.


+1

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

10

Re: Filament extrusion problem

I figured as much. I have acetone to soak it in already, but how do I pull out the thermistor and such from the hot end to soak it?

11

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Remove the black insulation. There should be two layers of it. The inner will be closer to the nozzle tip and houses the thermistor via kapton tape. Carefully slice the tape and retrieve the bead.
If you do not have spare kapton lying around, bare this in mind while removing the tape in hopes you can cannibalize

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

12

Re: Filament extrusion problem

^yep

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

13

Re: Filament extrusion problem

http://soliforum.com/i/?xQVdfR7.jpg

14

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Sorry for being a noob (And the bad image), but what black insulation? The picture above is where I am at right now so if somebody could walk me through taking it apart, that would be greatly appreciated.

15

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Sorry for that...just noticed your op edit.
The Press thermistor is held in via washer and screw on the side of the heating block.
Be very gentle with it. Some users have reported the thermistor legs "crumbling into dust".

I have no experience with the Press, but a quick forum search gave me that info. If things get worse or don;t go according to plan, check into an E3D to replace the stock hotend. There are quite a few Press E3D users on here that can expertly help you out.
the E3D Lite 6 goes for $35, and the only clogs I've had in the last year and a half were from user error

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

16 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-07-30 03:15:04)

Re: Filament extrusion problem

theman00011 wrote:

Sorry for being a noob (And the bad image), but what black insulation? The picture above is where I am at right now so if somebody could walk me through taking it apart, that would be greatly appreciated.


Could very well be part of your problem. That block is supposed to be wrapped in black insulation to help it maintain temps better..

As for taking apart, the heater core is the larger round object with two wires and held in by the set screw in the nozzle side of the block. It may be seized in so may take some work removing it. The thermistor is the smaller two wired part. I am not familiar enough with this setup to tell you how it is secured.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

17

Re: Filament extrusion problem

I was able to free the heat core from the body but I can't figure out how to get out the thermistor. I don't see any screw on the side of the block.

18

Re: Filament extrusion problem

I see it now. Its been one of those days where I need to look things over more than usual hmm

If you can confirm there is no set screw, and it refuses to wiggle out, I wonder if it was fixed in with a glue or sealant?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

19

Re: Filament extrusion problem

We all have those days haha

There's no set screw coming out, there is a small hole in the corner on the nozzle side of the block but it doesn't seem to have any screw as far as I can tell. It is possible it is glued in.

20

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Bump?

21

Re: Filament extrusion problem

theman00011 wrote:

Bump?

Reach out to MacGyverX via forum mail, that will go directly to his regular email.  I am sure he can answer your question.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

22

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Alright will do

23

Re: Filament extrusion problem

I noticed that the extruder heaters in blocks were very loose fit, on our CTC,
so I put silver-thermal-compound (type used on computer CPUs) on heaters
before sliding them back into block.
That shortened the Preheat-time Greatly ! smile

CTC Printer
Modifications Added

24

Re: Filament extrusion problem

Good thing I have some thermal compound lying around big_smile

25

Re: Filament extrusion problem

clogs are not always filament. many are dirt etc that was inside filament during manufacture like wood, metal glass... so acetone wont do it. also if you every ran PLA through it and it burned or even burnt ABS from over heating can crystallize/weld itself to the inside surface requiring complete dis-assembly and extensive cleaning, drilling, cooking which can easily ruin stock hot ends

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs