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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Filament extrusion problem
if not burnt into hot end sometimes you can load and heat filament then try backing/pulling slowly out while cooling and pull the obstruction out with the filament as it stretches thin also.
I haven't ran PLA at all but I think if I can get out the thermistor then I can soak it in Acetone and get out any ABS. I think it might work. Also, I tried that and it didn't work.
I haven't ran PLA at all but I think if I can get out the thermistor then I can soak it in Acetone and get out any ABS. I think it might work. Also, I tried that and it didn't work.
If you can dissconnect the thermistor from the controller and just unroute the wires you can soak it with the thermistor still in it. Thereis nothing on or in a thermistor that Acetone can hurt. They are just a glass bulb with two copper wires and Teflon sleeves. All three are impervious to Acetone.
Alright if you say so. Is there anything else I need to remove from the hotend before soaking it?
I could be wrong but it sure looks like that nozzle would unscrew from the block and heatbreak. It is very possible it is leaking between the nozzle and heatbreak causing the issue. Even after soaking you might consider taking it apart and looking for signs of leakage.
Of course having never done any of this with that hot end I can only speculate.
I messaged MacGyverX but he has not replied yet. And I have tried to unscrew it but it must be seized or something because I can't break it free if it does unscrew. Would it be okay to soak it with the thermistor still plugged in but the printer off?
I messaged MacGyverX but he has not replied yet. And I have tried to unscrew it but it must be seized or something because I can't break it free if it does unscrew. Would it be okay to soak it with the thermistor still plugged in but the printer off?
I dont see it hurting anything. Just be sure to unplug the power cord as well snd make sure it stays unplugged while soaking. Just to be safe and prevent any chance of power up.
Yeah, soaking with the thermistor in place is fine.
You may want to try heating it up and then loosening the nozzle. Of course take care not to burn yourself.
Yeah I will unplug it and soak it tonight. In the picture do I already have the PEEK barrel out because I heard it can't be soaked in Acetone but i'm not sure exactly where it is. Then I will screw back in the heat core and let it dry a bit then heat it up to fully dry it and see if I can heat it up and loosen it. I have been burnt enough 
Yeah it seems as though there is no PEEK on your hot end. 
When people speak off PEEK they are referring to the black plastic part above the heat block in the photo.
Ahh okay awesome. I will go ahead and unplug the printer than and start soaking it now.
Good luck!
Seems a good plan B should be on your radar. Might I suggest looking into an E3d upgrade?
I looked at that option earlier but it seems extremely complicated and I am not very mechanically inclined.
The firmware is the biggest challenge for your printer. There seems to be conflicting information as to whether or not you need to use a programmer to flash. Admittedly I haven't followed that as closely as I should. The mechanical stuff, that is no more difficult than what you're doing now.
Maybe spend some time digging a little deeper into the PRESS section and see what it would take. I do know there are plenty of Press users that have switched to the E3d. Even if you manage to get your hot end working the issue will most likely be an ongoing battle.
I wouldn't doubt it. I could probably do the flashing the easiest. I saw the thread on it and it seems like theres a lot of endstop moving and cutting and the lid having to be cut and such.
Well I know one thing for sure, if you decide to go for it there's plenty of people here willing to help.
Yeah I might give it a shot but it just seems like a long shot. The Z endstop seems to be the biggest challenge since it is mounted to the extruder.
Edit: I am looking at picking one up but which one is the right one?
Depends on your needs. The Lite6 is great for the price if all you want to print is ABS or PLA. If you want to print exotics like nylon or eventually convert to the volcano (up to a 1.2mm nozzle) than go with the regular V6. They both mount the same so that part won't matter. For many of us the most enjoyable part of 3dprinting is hacks and mods. So proceed with caution you may find yourself as addicted as the rest of us.
Are you looking at the Filastruder site? I think he might also have press mounts available or soon to be available.
Oh and 24v for your printer 1.75 and no need for the Bowden extras.
Ah okay thanks. I will look on the filastruder website. I will try not to get too addicted
Also, you said he might have Press mounts available or soon but I don't see any on the Filastruder website. That would be an issue, having all the parts printed since I don't have a functioning printer right now haha
Edit: Nevermind I found the mount on the website. But I don't understand how that mounts to the Solidoodle press.
Dig for pics on some of the Press threads.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9709/e3d … ss/page/2/
Scroll down close to the bottom of this page.
The Lite6 is great for the price if If you want to print exotics like nylon or eventually convert to the volcano
Just to clarify, the Volcano can be used with the Lite 6. I've been running on that for a few months now.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Filament extrusion problem
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