1 (edited by Jonathan 2015-03-04 22:27:20)

Topic: Question about upgrades

Ok so I have been running my 1st gen solidoodle 2 for about 3 years now with no modifications except a fan and replacing a bent z rod. Today I had my first clogged print head thanks to some bad filament. My question is this. Since im going to have to take the jigsaw extruder apart anyway, are there any recommended modifications that I should do? new extruder, print head, etc. I'm not wanting to replace the power supply or the electronics unless I have to.

2

Re: Question about upgrades

Where to start wink
Actually lawsy's MK 4 or 5 is a simple upgrade and you will most certainly need it.  That acrylic doesn't like to be taken apart.  Due to the age of your printer you may or may not have a Bootloader on the Sang board.  If you do and are willing to reflash your firmware then I highly recommend an E3d V6 all metal hot end.  The firmware change alone will breath new life into your SD.  If you need more info check the WIKI or feel free to ask more questions.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Question about upgrades

Can you use the stock sd2 power supply with a e3d hot end?

4

Re: Question about upgrades

Several other uses have had no trouble with the stock PSU running the E3d.  I think that is a bit of a crap shoot though.  The problem isn't that the PSU can't handle the additional load rather some of them came with poorly solders wires on the AC input side.  When they get hot the solder would let loose.  Do your LED's flicker at all now?  If not you're probably fine.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Question about upgrades

Yup. I ran an E3D on the stock PSU for several prints. Didn't have much trouble.
MKV extruder is well tested, so you're likely to Have A Good Time. I use one at the moment. Only printed at 40% infill, as I wanted to reprint it with the E3D's improved print quality... But it's still going strong. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

6

Re: Question about upgrades

Still on the OEM power supply, 2000+ prints in so far. E3Dv6.

7

Re: Question about upgrades

wardjr wrote:

Where to start wink
Actually lawsy's MK 4 or 5 is a simple upgrade and you will most certainly need it.  That acrylic doesn't like to be taken apart.  Due to the age of your printer you may or may not have a Bootloader on the Sang board.  If you do and are willing to reflash your firmware then I highly recommend an E3d V6 all metal hot end.  The firmware change alone will breath new life into your SD.  If you need more info check the WIKI or feel free to ask more questions.

How can I tell If I need the new firmware or not?

8

Re: Question about upgrades

Jonathan wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Where to start wink
Actually lawsy's MK 4 or 5 is a simple upgrade and you will most certainly need it.  That acrylic doesn't like to be taken apart.  Due to the age of your printer you may or may not have a Bootloader on the Sang board.  If you do and are willing to reflash your firmware then I highly recommend an E3d V6 all metal hot end.  The firmware change alone will breath new life into your SD.  If you need more info check the WIKI or feel free to ask more questions.

How can I tell If I need the new firmware or not?

You only need to update the firmware if you upgrade to an E3d all metal hot end.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Question about upgrades

wardjr wrote:
Jonathan wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Where to start wink
Actually lawsy's MK 4 or 5 is a simple upgrade and you will most certainly need it.  That acrylic doesn't like to be taken apart.  Due to the age of your printer you may or may not have a Bootloader on the Sang board.  If you do and are willing to reflash your firmware then I highly recommend an E3d V6 all metal hot end.  The firmware change alone will breath new life into your SD.  If you need more info check the WIKI or feel free to ask more questions.

How can I tell If I need the new firmware or not?

You only need to update the firmware if you upgrade to an E3d all metal hot end.

I know but im strongly considering adding a e3d hotend and wanted to know how to check and see what firmware version I have / need?

10

Re: Question about upgrades

If you haven't ever installed an E3Dv6, you need to update the firmware. The modification is E3Dv6-specific, a recalibration of the thermistor table.

11

Re: Question about upgrades

Yes, what elmoret said.  You don't need to upgrade the firmware but you do need to make changes to it regardless of what version you have.  Since that leaves you in a position of having to re-flash the firmware I would recommend updating to this version.  https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta
You can look at the log in the bottom of R-H when you first connect to see what version is on there.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

12

Re: Question about upgrades

Jonathan wrote:

Ok so I have been running my 1st gen solidoodle 2 for about 3 years now with no modifications except a fan and replacing a bent z rod.

That must be a new record!  Seriously, it seems most people's solidoodles have some serious flaw within 6 months.  Mine had a constantly binding X carriage due to poor tolerance rods, drivers kept overheating, and finally the board burned out due to a poor solder on the power wire.  Ya, I fixed it all and I get good prints now but just be glad you got that long out of it.

And as others have said, with an E3D V6 and a MK 5 mount, you are likely to get even better results.  Good luck.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

13

Re: Question about upgrades

mdrVB6 wrote:
Jonathan wrote:

Ok so I have been running my 1st gen solidoodle 2 for about 3 years now with no modifications except a fan and replacing a bent z rod.

That must be a new record!  Seriously, it seems most people's solidoodles have some serious flaw within 6 months.  Mine had a constantly binding X carriage due to poor tolerance rods, drivers kept overheating, and finally the board burned out due to a poor solder on the power wire.  Ya, I fixed it all and I get good prints now but just be glad you got that long out of it.

And as others have said, with an E3D V6 and a MK 5 mount, you are likely to get even better results.  Good luck.


I had similar luck with my SD2. I just replaced the hot end this year with an E3D, other than that and a fan on the control board, it had no mods. I finally replaced the original power supply when I installed the E3D just to make sure I had enough power.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

14

Re: Question about upgrades

Well ive ordered a e3d hotend . when I connect to the sd repeiter says firmware version marlin v1.

15

Re: Question about upgrades

Jonathan wrote:

Well ive ordered a e3d hotend . when I connect to the sd repeiter says firmware version marlin v1.

You will need to update regardless of the version you have now.  My advice is to flash that firmware before you get your E3d that way you have that step out of the way.  Just don't run your stock hot end past 230.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

16

Re: Question about upgrades

wardjr wrote:
Jonathan wrote:

Well ive ordered a e3d hotend . when I connect to the sd repeiter says firmware version marlin v1.

You will need to update regardless of the version you have now.  My advice is to flash that firmware before you get your E3d that way you have that step out of the way.  Just don't run your stock hot end past 230.

Im having a bit of trouble updating the firmware. Im not fimilar with arduino at all  sad I downloaded the firmware that you suggested, but there are many files . Do I need to upload all of them or are there certain ones that I need to upload?

17

Re: Question about upgrades

on the right hand side of the page there is a zip file download link - grab that - it will have everything you need in one zip file.

and dont feel bad - I was just as confused. wink

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

18

Re: Question about upgrades

heartless wrote:

on the right hand side of the page there is a zip file download link - grab that - it will have everything you need in one zip file.

and dont feel bad - I was just as confused. wink

Thank you. Thats what I did but do I need to upload all of the files (that are contained in the zip file) to my sd2 board? And in the arduino program how do I know which broad to select. I recall reading somewhere that the sd2 had 2 different boards? How do I tell which one I have?

19

Re: Question about upgrades

post a picture and I'll tell you which board and link the appropriate instructions.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

20

Re: Question about upgrades

Jonathan wrote:

Thank you. Thats what I did but do I need to upload all of the files (that are contained in the zip file) to my sd2 board? And in the arduino program how do I know which broad to select. I recall reading somewhere that the sd2 had 2 different boards? How do I tell which one I have?

do what wardjr tells you to do. He is much more knowledgable than I am (I am still pretty new at this stuff, too), but yes, when you flash the firmware it does upload everything. Yes, it seems intimidating, but trust wardjr, he wont steer you wrong. I know from experience. wink

just follow the directions you will be given for your board to the "T" - only change what you are told to change and where you are told to change it - and you will be fine. smile

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

21

Re: Question about upgrades

wardjr wrote:

post a picture and I'll tell you which board and link the appropriate instructions.

Thank you so much!!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/spectar1981us/Mobile%20Uploads/20150417_131555_zpsctemebvv.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/spectar1981us/Mobile%20Uploads/20150417_131608_zpsau7ind6b.jpg

22

Re: Question about upgrades

First off I want to mention that due to the age of your board there is a chance there is no Bootloader.  If that's the case we will know fairly quickly.
The good news is that is a Sanguinololu board and is fairly easy to flash.
Start by downloading and installing  Arduino version 022. 
Second open up arduino then navigate to the location where you saved the firmware I posted earlier via file>open  Then find the file Marlin.pde or marlin.ino and open that up in arduino.  Click on the configuration.h tab this is where you'll make the required max temp and thermistor changes.  You will need to change the board type to Sanguinololu and if that folder isn't available you will need to locate it from the original Marlin folders provided on the SD site and move that hardware folder into the new Marlin.  I think it's already in there though. Then click save>verify and then hit the reset button on your board and click upload.
That's all there is to it.
The WIKI firmware section was written for that board and a lot of the WIKI E3d section will apply.
The assembly instructions on the E3d site are very complete and need to be followed.
Get started and ask specific questions if needed.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

23

Re: Question about upgrades

What values should I set the max temp and thermistor to?

24

Re: Question about upgrades

Max temp to 300 and thermistor type 5
That should be the only changes you need to make.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

25

Re: Question about upgrades

I am using a Ramps 1.4 loaded with the firmware from the forum here. I tried the board setting of 33 and can get the bed to heat on pin #8 also the fan to control on pin #9 but pin #10 does not heat my extruder. When I use board setting 34 I can get the extruder to work on pin 9 and the bed on pin 8. But no fan control anywhere. I would like to use board setting 33 but don't know what is wrong. I have tried this on about 3 different Ramps boards and is is the same so I must have a setting wrong in the marlin setup.