Question about upgrades (Page 2 of 4)

I am so sorry to keep bothering you. I feel like an idiot . I can build a pc in my sleep but this arduino stuff is kicking my butt. lol
What lines in the code do I make these changes to? Ive looked through the code a few times and dont see anything that jumps out ate me. It appears that there are multiple places to enter the max temp. I dont want to put it in the wrong place.

The updates for the thermistor and max temp are performed in the configuration.h file on the Solidoodle 2 with the sanguino board. Here are the changes http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder#Ed … ion.h_file

The instructions list approximate line numbers to the left, to see the line numbers, place your cursor in a line of code and look at the status bar on the bottom of your arduino editor screen.

I believe that is the only change you need to make before the E3D install. After you wire it up by following the online tutorials, you will need to heat it up, then tighten it to "bind" it all together. The tutorials indicate how to do this. After that, you will need to adjust your filament extrusion length and width like you probably did when you first bought your printer.

Yep

Ummm,,,, NO
What do you need Kapton for other than the stuff provided with the E3d?
Why would you need a separate PSU for the active cooling fan?  Just tie it into the wires for the extruder motor fan.
As far as connectors go the right way would be to add the proper connector.  But, the wires are long enough to run from the heat cartridge back to the board.  Cut the existing wires (for the SD hot end) about an inch or two from the board and tie the new wires together with a western union junction.  Wrap them with some electrical tape and the heat cartridge is good to go.
you can repeat the process for the thermistor wires.  The nice thing is you don't have to wait for connectors to start printing and you'll be able to add the connectors later.

What happens when you home x or y?

Also its doing this weird thing where its mashing the layers together. This was printed at .3mm and should be twice as tall as it is.

I dont think so. I sliced this part before I made the mods and it printed out fine with the old head/firmware. Do you have to make changes in sli3r to accommodate the new firmware?

Ok when I move the z axis manualy 20mm it is actualy only moving 10 or 11mm.

When I bought my sd the z rod was wobbly The bore was way off center so I replaced it with a fine thread rod. I remember having to go into the eprom setting and change some stuff. I just dont remember what I did. I wonder if this new firmware is set for the old z rod?

Yep!

If you know the thread pitch, then these handy calculation guides can help you:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/