PLA delamination (Page 1 of 2)

Would it theoretically work if the air is been sucked past it? I'm thinking of making something to fit over the kossel fan so that intake air will flow past the nozzle, and then still blow over the fins of the hotend.

Perhaps I can split the stream of air to go to the nozzle and to the fins? Might be easier.

I just really don't want to buy another fan.

Not sure where I would plug it in. Can this wimpy power supply handle much more?

You need a fan when printing PLA 100% of the time unless you are printing an exceptionally large block.
The layers need to cool before the next layer is applied, and if you don't use a fan, smaller parts in PLA will be nearly impossible to get right. The first layer would need to be cooled as well. Even with an open frame, a simple desk fan is recommended.
Also, PLA does not like tall AND thin designs. A larger nozzle can help combat said designs. But designs infinitely vary, so don't rely on just that.

Carl is dead on...fans don't require much pull. So add away!
As I mentioned (arguably, far too) many times on other threads, I run all my fans, 8 in total, on a separate power supply to a 6 way splitter....then a 1-to-4 way splitter lol
Point is, I have a dedicated power source for my board, and my fans....but this is entirely from my despicable electrical skills

He probably has atleast two on his part for even cooling and no hot sinlge side like one fan will get you. Probably one for the controller and maybe one for each motor. I plan to put one on my Da Vinci's extruder motor as it runs very hot even at reduced current.

Nozzles are fine as long as they direct air to two opposite sides minimum.  Circular ducts like the annular ducts found on thingiverse are even better if you have the clearance for them.

*E3D
*Nozzle
*X motor
*Y motor
*E motor
*2 fans on board
*Added Supernight PSU fan

The fans for the board and PSU are mandatory for me. Since I have a toddler, my printers need to be entirely enclosed.

Not true. I have never used more than a single active cooling at a time. If one were to print, say, a small tower 3mm in diameter, no matter the material, you would certainly need extra cooling. But for 99% of what you would print, fans blowing in opposite directions can create a vortex with opposing forces...it would not be as effective as a single uninterrupted stream.

Man, an air vortex if made totally even and centered around the nozzle - wouldn't that be the perfect cooling? 360 degrees?

I'm trying out this:

Printing now I hope it works!

Ah I see your point about the streams. What if it was almost like a turbine but reversed? With many angled flaps diverting the air flow. Impractical, just thinking theoretically...

Noob here, but I've noticed the same thing... edges look nice and crisp on the side of the head with a fan, but sloppier on the opposite side. I'd love to see a good, working dual-fan setup that could be borrowed.

I don't have a Solidoodle, but someday might get up the courage to mod an extra fan onto my printer to see if I can improve it.

Are you sure your nozzle is actuall at 225? You would need to measure it wit a contact thermometer like a cooking thermometer or such. An IR non-contact won't work as the source is too small. You could try to raise the temp to 230 or decrease your infill if possible. The goal is to get maximum layer adhesion followed maximum maximum cooling. Sounds counter productive but when done it just works.

I just printed a 25x25x25mm calibration cube. ww.thingiverse.com/thing:45225

Measured with calipers and I get x: 25.3, y : 25.3, z: 26.2. Is it possible my z steps/mm are wrong?