You were right about the temperature. Another big thing that has helped, and I think the root cause of Z axis being larger, is my first layer height was set wrong. I had it at 4.5 for a 2mm layer height print. Eeek. Changed that to 3 and the first few layers are printing so much better, and less corner peeling as well. Will post the hexagon flowerpot when its done.

Not perfect but much better!! So tired I can't focus the camera properly lol.

Try bumbing up the temp 5 to 10 degrees and see if that helps. Get your lamination problem fixed first as it will impact your part measurement on the z axis. Is that PLA? I am too lazy to scroll back on my phone.

Yep its PLA. Just cranked it up to 240. Printed the cube just fine. Gonna crank it up to 250 and print. If it prints fine I'll keep going up till it starts going bad, then I'll print the big hexagonal shape and see if helps the delamination.

Edit:

Printed up to 260!! No strings or bubbling. I didn't try going any higher with the cubes. Printing the hexagon at 260. I hope it works!

Hmm. Tried 270 but actually temps hover around 250-260.

brightwing wrote:

I just printed a 25x25x25mm calibration cube. ww.thingiverse.com/thing:45225

Measured with calipers and I get x: 25.3, y : 25.3, z: 26.2. Is it possible my z steps/mm are wrong?

It is very possible based on that measurement but it will not cause delamination. What layer thickness are you printing at and what is your nozzle diameter?

Printing at 2mm height and 4mm nozzle diameter (never said in the folgertech manual, I emailed them and asked).

I just printed a 25x25x25mm calibration cube. ww.thingiverse.com/thing:45225

Measured with calipers and I get x: 25.3, y : 25.3, z: 26.2. Is it possible my z steps/mm are wrong?

It is very possible based on that measurement but it will not cause delamination. What layer thickness are you printing at and what is your nozzle diameter?

Measured with calipers and I get x: 25.3, y : 25.3, z: 26.2. Is it possible my z steps/mm are wrong?

I got the fan duct blowing onto the nozzle. Perhaps not enough, but I can feel the air coming out (pic included though its not the best angle). Out of desperation I even put a big fan blowing right at the print and I still had delamination (On all sides).

I feel like cooling has been ruled out. Other than cooling, what could the issue be? Could it be my extrusion rate? Could the z-axis be raising slightly too high per layer? Could it be nozzle temperature (this print was at 225)?

Thanks for your help!

PS. Juggler, what printer are you using?? If its the folgertech kossel I can send you my stl files when I get the design just right.

I don't have a Solidoodle, but someday might get up the courage to mod an extra fan onto my printer to see if I can improve it.

My last file is called fansplitter-giveup.stl because I gave up and just ended up having it blow from one direction.

Man, an air vortex if made totally even and centered around the nozzle - wouldn't that be the perfect cooling? 360 degrees?

Only in theory. In practice, the opposing air currents would choose directions to escape. Think of two garden hoses pointed toward each other. Eek! Even though the center suffered the full brunt of the airflow, the airflow around it, which would cause a vortex , would disrupted almost immediately. And since the your hotend is not mounted in a stationary manor (it moves x and y), the air current would constantly change.

Said overhang blobs can be prevented with support material and/or a properly placed fan.
I hope the mount design works out for you!

brightwing wrote:

Why so many?!

*E3D
*Nozzle
*X motor
*Y motor
*E motor
*2 fans on board
*Added Supernight PSU fan

The fans for the board and PSU are mandatory for me. Since I have a toddler, my printers need to be entirely enclosed.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Nozzles are fine as long as they direct air to two opposite sides minimum.

Not true. I have never used more than a single active cooling at a time. If one were to print, say, a small tower 3mm in diameter, no matter the material, you would certainly need extra cooling. But for 99% of what you would print, fans blowing in opposite directions can create a vortex with opposing forces...it would not be as effective as a single uninterrupted stream.

Man, an air vortex if made totally even and centered around the nozzle - wouldn't that be the perfect cooling? 360 degrees?

I'm trying out this:

Printing now I hope it works!

brightwing wrote:

Why so many?!

*E3D
*Nozzle
*X motor
*Y motor
*E motor
*2 fans on board
*Added Supernight PSU fan

The fans for the board and PSU are mandatory for me. Since I have a toddler, my printers need to be entirely enclosed.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Nozzles are fine as long as they direct air to two opposite sides minimum.

Not true. I have never used more than a single active cooling at a time. If one were to print, say, a small tower 3mm in diameter, no matter the material, you would certainly need extra cooling. But for 99% of what you would print, fans blowing in opposite directions can create a vortex with opposing forces...it would not be as effective as a single uninterrupted stream.

Depends on your object. I once tried printing a model that was about 40mm tall. It was a globe with a spiral stairway twisting around a mountain up to it. The stairway was actually nothing but a 3mm wide overhang all the way around. It would deform and melt on the opposite side from my fan. I ended up printing a dual output duct that blew from right and left and the model printed perfect then.