26

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

brandon wrote:

Nice.  I am doing the same upgrade this evening on a SD2.  It appears that you have the same parts as me except that I seem to have this one little part that doesn't look like it goes anywhere.  It almost looks like it would go on the fron of the extruder to hold it in place but there is no place for it in the main body.

That's a locking arm that was used on previous models of the MK-5.  Did you buy your MK-5 or print it yourself?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

27 (edited by brandon 2015-01-28 03:02:17)

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I bought it from Filastruder.  So if I don't need it then that's fine. The main body part of mine looks like Azerate's version.

The test fits are going well but there is no kapton tape that was shipped with it so this tutorial doesn't really help me:

http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder

I am going slow smile

EDIT: I have realized that, yes, the tape is no longer necessary.  I just need to look around the net for assembly instructions for the v6.

EDIT2: Found one in case anyone reads this at a later date:

http://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?ti … 6_Assembly

28

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

There are instructions on Filastruder's site. Follow them to the letter or you will be aggravated when you have to take it apart and clean it later tongue

source: been there, done that

29 (edited by Gordym 2015-01-28 02:54:19)

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I have the same leftover part. I believe it was used on an older model print. The hot end clips in and is solid without it.

I used this document to assemble the hot end http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation

And this document to install in the printer.

http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

30

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Quick question while we are on the subject...

I have gotten it to the point where the E3D is assembled and I have the fan running properly with the thermistor registering properly.  Now my small problem; wiring in the heater.  I imagine that I can not simply splice the wires onto a couple of inches of the existing wire/connector (or maybe I can) but I'm not really sure how to go about that if I cannot.

31

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

You can splice them or just reuse the existing plug by pulling the existing wires out and pulling the new wires into the spades of the plug.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

32

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Great, thanks for the reply.  I don't want to do any of this tired and grumpy (already learned my lesson on that) so I will wire up that portion tomorrow, throw it into the MK5 and then next will be the firmware which I have seen a couple of good tutorials on already.

33

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I did what you originally stated. I used the entire length of heater wire provided and just clipped the original heater wire with a few inches and soldered the wires together then heat shrinked them. I left enough of the original wire that I could replace the heater if needed in the future.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

34

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Gordym wrote:

I did what you originally stated. I used the entire length of heater wire provided and just clipped the original heater wire with a few inches and soldered the wires together then heat shrinked them. I left enough of the original wire that I could replace the heater if needed in the future.

Sounds like you have it handled.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

35

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Thank for the verification Gordym.  That is exactly what I will be doing tonight.

36

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

After a lot of fiddling around with my  Y belt tensions to try to get the alignment right, I searched the forum and found several people that indicated the alignment problems might be related to the power supply. I have the SD2 Expert and just put the E3D hot end on it. My stock power supply was the larger of the two available. I had previously ordered a 12V 20Amp power supply that I had not put on the machine yet. Last night I put on the larger power supply and my Y axis problem went away. I strongly suggest that if anyone is upgrading to the E3D, consider upgrading the power supply. I know that is suggested in other posts, but an upgraded supply can only help you out in the long run.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

37

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Woohoo! Another Michigander! I'm in Kalamazoo.

I just put an E3d V6 on my Solidoodle 3 last weekend, and unfortunately...have not been able to print anything. I won't go into detail, as there are a billion posts about jamming/extrusion problems...or not following the assembly instructions to a "T". I've done all that, tried all the suggestions, all that's left is to replace the stock PSU, so I ordered up a new one just moments ago. Here's to hoping.

38

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

brwhitesell wrote:

Woohoo! Another Michigander! I'm in Kalamazoo.

I just put an E3d V6 on my Solidoodle 3 last weekend, and unfortunately...have not been able to print anything. I won't go into detail, as there are a billion posts about jamming/extrusion problems...or not following the assembly instructions to a "T". I've done all that, tried all the suggestions, all that's left is to replace the stock PSU, so I ordered up a new one just moments ago. Here's to hoping.

If you need/want help all you have to do is ask.  Elmoret won't leave you hanging and neither will I along with several other users.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

39

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I appreciate it! I don't want to pull any help away from OP if they still need it though...

So here is my set-up.

Solidoodle 3, Printrboard Rev E, Stock PSU, Stock everything else also, aside from the new E3D V6 12v Direct...

Firmware has been updated accordingly (thanks to many posts here!)
The 12v cooling fan is directly wired to it's very own PSU with nothing else connected, solid 12v there.

I have read and re-read and re-built the E3D V6 about 4 times now, following instructions extremely close just to make sure nothing is wrong. The PTFE tube IS there, seated in the heat break. The only thing I did slightly wrong there is that I have no PTFE sticking out of the top of E3D, and they say to have some up until just about the drive gear. I had not had issues getting filament to feed into that though... the gear/filament line up pretty nicely too, it's not binding on it's way in.

I primarily print with PLA, but I have tried printing with ABS also to see if it was a filament issue...my PLA is brand new, just got it last week from Makergeeks (makergeeks brand, white PLA), and on my old hot end set up it was working just fine...

So what happens is when I start a print, it will lay down the first layer, maybe the first two beautifully, but then as it gets into infill and it's like the nozzle just stops putting out filament, eventually the extruder drive gear just grinds into the filament, and it will not push more through, even with the tensioner set as light as I can get it.

What I find strange is that when the extruder/hot end are at home position (or just parked anywhere), and I manually extrude it flows just fine, I can set it to 100mm extrude and it goes right though it. I have calibrated the extruder, and it is very very close to pushing 100mm when I say to push 100mm, it's within 2-3mm anyway. If I let it try to print while "jamming" for too long, I have to up the temp about 10-20 degrees more to be able to extrude again. Both PLA and ABS do this, and same thing, if it's parked, no problem extruding. I have experimented with various retraction settings between both filaments also, same results. A few times I have cleared the goop in the hot end and some of it came out... like clear film.

I suspect what may be the issue is power supply, I have the stock Solidoodle 3 PSU feeding the REV-E, which if I recall is rated 12.5A. I wonder if it works while parked because nothing else is really drawing current, but when it's printing the other steppers, heat bed, etc. are all pulling, maybe maxing it out, and dropping hot end temps. Though I have not seen that fluctuation while watching RH, so that's a mystery somewhat.

I have a new 12v 30A PSU on the way (found from links on these forums, and recommended by many here). So that's another $25 out of my pocket for something that doesn't work right now, just in the hopes that's an issue, but at least I will have a lot more capacity for upgrades regardless.

I've spent many hours reading forums and suggestions and can't seem to come up with a solution yet. Help!

40

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Screen shot of your temp chart when this happens would be helpful.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

41

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

What are your retracts set to (both speed and distance)?
Is the hotend's fan directly connected to 12 volts?
What temperature are you printing the PLA at?
Have you measured the filament diameter extensively to rule out jamming due to too large of filament?

42

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I left my set up at work over the weekend, since I was getting rather frustrated. (I have a lot of freedom at work, and it's our off-season). New power supply shows up tomorrow, and I'm back at work Tuesday to fiddle with things.

I can answer a few of those questions though.

Hot end fan IS directly connected to it's own power supply, 12V. This supply is independent of everything else. I have checked the PSU output and it is a consistent 12.3V.

PLA Temp ranged anywhere from 195 to 215, it seemed to be pretty good around 200-205 though.

I have measured the filament diameter...I don't know about "extensively" but every time I would check a length of it, say 6" or so, it was typically around 1.72, 1.74, never did I measure it over 1.75mm. I will test this more thouroughly.

The retract settings I don't recall off the top of my head, though I recall reading from E3D something about typically not having to go over .8mm. I know when I very first installed the new hot end it was at 1. I will get better information Tuesday, and get those screen shots.

43 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-04-13 15:53:32)

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

In your firmware, is your temp sensor set to 5 or 6? Wiki says 5 but it needs to be 6.

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6

44

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

metaldrgn wrote:

In your firmware, is your temp sensor set to 5 or 6? Wiki says 5 but it needs to be 6.

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6

That is incorrect. It needs to be 5 for Marlin, as per E3D themselves.

http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_ … Easy.21.29

brwhitesell, if your retracts are less than 1 and you're still jamming, you should contact E3D themselves for support as is is something very odd causing the problem, and you shouldn't bang your head against the wall when they can likely identify the issue quickly.

45

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Yeah I though it should be "5" there, I remember reading the change in the wiki also. I'm at work finally, so I will get the info to you guys soon, and I may inquire to E3D if I can't figure it out today.

46 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-04-15 01:36:15)

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Thanks for posting that link. I hadn't seen that before. The reason I say 6 is this site says it needs to be that in some of the upgrade tutorials. I also tried 5 first and at room temp it was +5C higher compared to the bed temp and they were pretty much even with the old thermistor. With the 6 seeing they closely matched again. I realize it could just be how the thermistor  is at low temps but after trying 6 it seemed more accurate.

47

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

You hadn't seen the E3Dv6 assembly instructions before? How did you know how to assemble the hotend?

5 is the correct table. Not 6. I am 100% sure about this. Straight from Configuration.h:

// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)

Every genuine E3Dv6 is supplied with a Semitec 104GT-2 thermistor.

If they weren't matching at room temperature with table 5 selected then either you don't have a genuine E3Dv6, or your bed temperature is wrong.

48

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

I purchased mine directly from Filastruder.

49

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

brwhitesell wrote:

I purchased mine directly from Filastruder.

I was addressing metaldrgn, sorry. smile

50

Re: upgrade to E3D V6

Oops! My bad too!