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Topic: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

Hi guys,
i was getting great prints with my solidoodle 3.
i had to move from usa to turkey 2 months ago so i put my machine in a shipping container, with great packaging, and it spent 2 months on a cargo ship.
as usual i started to calibrate when i got my hands on it.
I messed up at some point but since i didnt spend time with it for a while, i cant figure it out.i am uploading some pictures so you guys can see the results. I ll also upload my glass bed thickness. It might be too thick. I have my original 0.4 mm nozzle ( i emailed back a lot with solidoodle, they werent sure if they sent me 0.35 or 0.4 but at last they decided it is 0.4mm)
the print was 1.75mm abs, 220 c extruder 120c bed, 3mm layer height, 30% infill no support vs vs.
i lll upload all the settings in a sec.
i am also using the same abs filament that i shipped with my printer. Maybe the humidity also affected it.
here are the pics.
sorry about my english btw.

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

Here are some more pics. The one on the right is before i tried to calibrate the belts.

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

here are some more pics

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

some more settings on slic3r
i also tried to print 2 calibration pieces with same settings.
it looks like there is some overlapping on the right corner (on brim lines)

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

First thing... If that filament sat in the shipping container dehydrate it or throw it away.  A lot of what you're seeing is caused by moisture.
Second... You should use a layer height of .2963 not .3  and make sure your Z-axis is actually moving smoothly. Lube is your friend.
Third... You have your nozzle set to .40 so that means you should be adjusting your extrusion multiplier to achieve a single wall that is .48  Also you want to set your extrusion widths to .48 so the tool path actually matches what is being put down.
Of course I am assuming you have properly set your steps/mm in EEPROM

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
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Thanks to all for your contributions

6

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

First thing... If that filament sat in the shipping container dehydrate it or throw it away.  A lot of what you're seeing is caused by moisture.
Second... You should use a layer height of .2963 not .3  and make sure your Z-axis is actually moving smoothly. Lube is your friend.
Third... You have your nozzle set to .40 so that means you should be adjusting your extrusion multiplier to achieve a single wall that is .48  Also you want to set your extrusion widths to .48 so the tool path actually matches what is being put down.
Of course I am assuming you have properly set your steps/mm in EEPROM

Thanks for the tips. I ll try to make these changes and get back to you with results.

7 (edited by PheonixSD3 2015-03-21 02:20:16)

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

+1 on Ward's advice and I would also recommend tuning the vref for your extruder motor driver which may be a cause of what appears to be pulsed, periodic, or generally uneven flow from your extruder.  Which model of printer and motor drivers do you have?

Edit: Also consider turning down your hotend a little to cut back on oozing.  This can be different for every filament so it takes some trial and error.  I usually run around 210C and keep my bed around 95C.

SD3, RUMBA, 360W power, ABS: Glass bed + Aquanet Extra Super Hold Hairspray, Anti-backlash Z spanner, Repetier Host + Slic3r

8

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

PheonixSD3 wrote:

+1 on Ward's advice and I would also recommend tuning the vref for your extruder motor driver which may be a cause of what appears to be pulsed, periodic, or generally uneven flow from your extruder.  Which model of printer and motor drivers do you have?

Edit: Also consider turning down your hotend a little to cut back on oozing.  This can be different for every filament so it takes some trial and error.  I usually run around 210C and keep my bed around 95C.

The temperature might be the problem as well. I ll have access to my printer tomorrow and i ll try it.  This is the first time i heard about vref. I ll do some research on it. If you have any articles i can look into and learn, i would appreciate. If not, not a big deal i ll find some.
I ll check my motor drivers and let you know.
Thank you for the input

9

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

First thing... If that filament sat in the shipping container dehydrate it or throw it away.  A lot of what you're seeing is caused by moisture.
Second... You should use a layer height of .2963 not .3  and make sure your Z-axis is actually moving smoothly. Lube is your friend.
Third... You have your nozzle set to .40 so that means you should be adjusting your extrusion multiplier to achieve a single wall that is .48  Also you want to set your extrusion widths to .48 so the tool path actually matches what is being put down.
Of course I am assuming you have properly set your steps/mm in EEPROM

I tried the layer height setting , extrusion width and chancing the filament.
i still have the same result i guess.
I played with the extruder steps in eeprom to set it properly but so far no luck.

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

+1 with Wardjr   You need to cook the filament in a oven for a few hours at low heat to dry it out.

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

11

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wire10ga wrote:

+1 with Wardjr   You need to cook the filament in a oven for a few hours at low heat to dry it out.

i used a brand new filament for the white ones. i am not using the same old one.

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

SO I think your problems are twofold, first you are going to have to adjust the VREF.  A simple search for VREF should provide you more info than you really need.
Secondly I notice your E steps is set at 101 and that should be 105.  Now I know you must have followed the instructions so that number is probably what calculated out.  But that would be lower than any I have seen so I would adjust the VREF first and then redo the steps.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

13

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

SO I think your problems are twofold, first you are going to have to adjust the VREF.  A simple search for VREF should provide you more info than you really need.
Secondly I notice your E steps is set at 101 and that should be 105.  Now I know you must have followed the instructions so that number is probably what calculated out.  But that would be lower than any I have seen so I would adjust the VREF first and then redo the steps.

I ll dig into VREF tomorrow when i have the right equipment.
E step is set at 101.7. I did the calculation but if you are sure i ll give it a try.
Without these last 2 recommendations,  i managed to get some better prints. They are not yet perfect of course.
I think i have a problem with the z axis. If i dont select random start points on slic3r, there is always somr more plastic on one edge of my square calibration parts. White ones are the new stuff, red square is the old one to compare.
i also tried a replacement part before this cube. Outer layer is still better than the red cube but not smooth.
thank you for all the help. Without your recommendations i would suffer a lot.

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Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

Ok on the red one you have some serious over extrusion along with very inconsistent flow.  The white one is looking better but that gray one is showing serious signs of z-wobble or extruder wobble.  So check your extruder by grabbing the nozzle (cold) and see if you can make it move up or down left or right and front to back.  Don't force it just see if it wiggles independent of the rails.  If it does find the problem and address it.
Second run your bed up and down some length and watch the z-screw, does it turn true or does it wobble?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

15 (edited by osmanharac 2015-03-25 11:12:26)

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0RYe-3bi8g
extruder is tight. I checked and there is no problem there but my z rod is in a bad shape. before i saw your post today i also noticed this while checking the forums for a solution.
Do you think i can still use it with an anti backlash nut or should i change it?
if you think i can still use this one (not have to be perfect but at least ...) is there a printable z wobble fix you can recommend?
i am printing this one to see the result. Www.thingiverse.com/thing:646436

what is the size of the original solidoodle 3 z rod? My caliper is gone crazy this morning. It is showing random numbers. I ll get a new one today.

16

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

Yep, I think we found the source of a lot of your issues.  I would use this as an opportunity to upgrade from the original
5/16" 18TPI rod to an M5 or even M3.  All of the printable Z-wobble fixes are just a band-aid at best.  There are many threads here about upgrading to the M5 & M3 and that is the correct solution.  All you need is the rod and a coupler to attach it to the motor.  then come up with a way to attach the new nut to the platform.  I like to run a well-nut upside down  on the top to remove any slop in the threads as well.
http://i.imgur.com/71tbpke.jpg

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

17

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

Yep, I think we found the source of a lot of your issues.  I would use this as an opportunity to upgrade from the original
5/16" 18TPI rod to an M5 or even M3.  All of the printable Z-wobble fixes are just a band-aid at best.  There are many threads here about upgrading to the M5 & M3 and that is the correct solution.  All you need is the rod and a coupler to attach it to the motor.  then come up with a way to attach the new nut to the platform.  I like to run a well-nut upside down  on the top to remove any slop in the threads as well.
http://i.imgur.com/71tbpke.jpg

It may take some time for me to get a new rod. I wish i was in USA when i need these kind of parts smile
by the mean time i printed a temporary solution and trying my first prints with it.
On my calibrstion cube, my left front side is defective a little bit. This spot is the spot on the layer where z axis moves 1 layer down.
Do you think new rod would solve this as well or there might be another problem too?
thanks a lot for the help.

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18

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

That blob can be reduced by increasing the retraction distance and speed.  You can also turn on random start points so they aren't in a noticeable row like that.

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3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
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19

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

That blob can be reduced by increasing the retraction distance and speed.  You can also turn on random start points so they aren't in a noticeable row like that.

I tried the retraction . Do you think i am using the correct settings on slicer. Here is the results
i choose random but it keeps using the same spot. Is thete another setting?
thanks a lot

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20

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

Couldn't tell from the photos but guessing you're using Slic3R version 1.1.7?
Or you are making the changes but not actually choosing that saved profile when you're slicing?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
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Thanks to all for your contributions

21

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

Couldn't tell from the photos but guessing you're using Slic3R version 1.1.7?
Or you are making the changes but not actually choosing that saved profile when you're slicing?

I choose it but i dont know what makes the problem.
i played with the retraction settings a little and here are the results. Seems betyer than the old one

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22

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

How "new" is that white filament?
I've had results like this off a fresh spool, and it was only cured when switching to a completely fresh one.
Even if you have it properly sealed, filament can either become brittle or absorb moisture over time.

If you have a spankin new spool hot off shipment, try that.
Just my 2 cents.

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23

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

That last picture looks like it is getting better but until you fix the z-wobble it's going to be hard to tell.  Given your situation I would consider pulling that motor and threaded rod out.  Then use a good flat surface and see if you can't straighten it some.  You really have nothing to lose.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
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Thanks to all for your contributions

24

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

AZERATE wrote:

How "new" is that white filament?
I've had results like this off a fresh spool, and it was only cured when switching to a completely fresh one.
Even if you have it properly sealed, filament can either become brittle or absorb moisture over time.

If you have a spankin new spool hot off shipment, try that.
Just my 2 cents.

It was pretty tight sealed filament that i started using 2 days ago. I am sure it is ok but i ll open a new one.
thanks

25

Re: pictures of my prints, what do you guys think is the problem?

wardjr wrote:

That last picture looks like it is getting better but until you fix the z-wobble it's going to be hard to tell.  Given your situation I would consider pulling that motor and threaded rod out.  Then use a good flat surface and see if you can't straighten it some.  You really have nothing to lose.

i dont get it. you mean take the motor and rod out and try to bend and make it straight?