E3D extruder upgrade help (Page 1 of 2)

You are close enough to the right place
You need the 12v
And the firmware you want is this
https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta
You can use the stock PSU but an upgrade is not a bad idea.
You'll need an MK5 designed for the v6 and if I know this forum someone will toss you a link quickly or you can buy them with your v6  directly from filastruder.
The instructions on the WIKI are for the v5 yet still relevant so read through it.
Also spend some time searching E3d you'll find lots of info.
If you can't find the answers just ask.

No because it's down right now but it's in the WIKI tab up top.  If it isn't working soon just ask and I'll find someone to copy and paste up the instructions you need.

Flashing the firmware will be a slightly different process depending on which board you have:
This is a Printrboard

This is a Sanguinololu

This link will give you all steps needed if you have a Printrboard.
I have never needed to flash a Sang, so maybe another user can assist you with that, but the changes in the firmware in the given link are the same no matter the board.
Hope this helps a bit

These instructions I compiled after talking with Adrian, and reading the existing wiki (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/update-firmware)
A: Download the Arduino IDE (www.arduino.cc)
B: Download Teensyduino (http://pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html)
C: Download the firmware  (https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta)
D: Download the upload BootloaderHID (http://blog.lincomatic.com/wp-content/u … derHID.zip)
1.    Install Arduiono IDE
2.    By default it installed in C:/program files/Arduino (or program files C:/program files(x86)/Arduino)
3.    Install Teenyduino
4.    It will ask you where the arduino install is, point it to the above folder
5.    Unzip the firmware file to a folder you will remember
6.    Open the Arduino.exe (shortcut put on your desktop after the Arduino IDE installed
7.    Click Tools, Board (might say Board:Arduino Uno) and select the Teensy ++2.0
8.    Click Tools, Serial Port, and change it to the port of your printer
(If you are unsure, and using windows, click the start button, right click computer, click properties, click device manager, and click on ports. Your printer will be the one listed as “USB serial port (Com X) write down whatever the x is, and put it in step 8)
9.    Click File – Open
10.    Browse to the folder you extracted in step 5, select the file (in the marlin folder) named Configureation.H , double click it or select it and click open
11.    You will notice that there are several tabs across the top: Marlin, Configuration.H, ConfigurationStore.cpp etc, select the Configuration.H tab
12.    Scroll down until you see (in black as the grey is comments and effects nothing)
#define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2 (line 22 on mine) Change to #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3                 
13.    #define MOTHERBOARD  62 (line #76 on mine…you can tell the line by clicking the code, and looking at the bottom left, a number will be there, this is the line of code)
Change it to read #define MOTHERBOARD 81
14.    find #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 (line 120 ) and change to #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
15.    find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145)  change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16.    350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
17.    In the top arduino menu, click Sketch, then Verify/compile
18.    If you installed Teensyduino, it will pop up a window, just close it
19.    If your sketch does not report errors and simply gives you the Binary sketch size and memory use, it is safe to upload. If it reports errors, you have made a syntax error, and should recheck those lines you changed.
20.    Before doing the final compile, click file – save (if you do not, it will not upload the changes)
21.    Hold down SHIFT and click Compile
22.    There has been a .hex file created. Marlin.cpp.hex, in my case (windows 7) it is under C:/users/whateverYourProfileNameIs/AppData/Local/Temp….it will be in the folder
named build-xxxxxxxxx.tmp (the x’s are a string of numbers) created today. You must have view hidden or system files enabled in folder options (control panel. Have view folders by icon instead of category enabled, folder options,view, check Show hidden files and folders)
23.    Unzip the BootloaderHID.Zip (step D) to a folder
24.    Copy the Marlin.cpp.hex file, and past it in the folder above (the bootloaderHID folder
25.    Make sure your computer is connected to the printer via usb cable
26.    Add a jumper to the BOOT pins on the printboard (back of the printer) or bend the 2 pins so they are touching , then press the RESET button
27.    Open a new command window (click the windows start button, and in the search programs field (windows vista or newer) type CMD.
28.    Within the CMD window, navigate to the folder you unzipped the BootleaderHID to in step 23
29.     Type “hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex” (no quotations)
30.    It should say something like “read Marlin.cpp.hex xx bytes, xx% usage, found halfkay bootloader, programming…………………..Booting
31.    Remove the jumper, or unbend the boot pins on the printboard (back of the printer)
32.    Press reset
33.    Verify that you have updated them, start up Repetier Host.
34.    Click Connect
35.    Look at the bottom of the screen, you will see a greeting msg when you connect it should now read
02:09:14.238 : echo:Unknown command: ""
02:09:14.405 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
02:09:14.405 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
If you see the address changed to github.com instead of solidoodle, you know you're golden

Anyone have any idea when the wiki will be back up?

More detail about the fan you need?  Do you want a G-code controlled fan that blows at the nozzle?  Or are you saying you need a fan that blows at the drive gear on the motor to cool the filament?
The mount you need is the revised MK5 for the V6 I'll attach the file.  This is the same one Filastruder sells and is not really designed to be a permanent replacement but more of a get you by till you print up something better type of mount.

I Currently have a front mounted 40mm fan blowing at the tip of the nozzle .
I dont need a gcode controlled one so I just need some sort of mount so I can mount it on to the e3d

Yes im printing with pla started off with abs but drove me crazy with warping .
Would you be able to throw me a link please.

Hi so I have fitted the mounts and have upgraded the firmware with no problems. I tested the thermometer and heater beforehand and found out the heater on the e3d is not heating. I tried connecting to the heated bed power and it still does not heat so im wondering if the problem lies in the connector i soldered on or that the actual heater is broken. Anyone have any idea how to test which one preferably without soldering another plug on as Im bad at soldering

I have just tried a new plug l but it is still not heating up.

When you are heating up in RH, are you getting any error codes?
Do you get errors as you click to heat, or when you reach a certain temperature?

To me, it sounds like you goofed somewhere in the firmware, or there is a disturbance/break in the the lines for either the heater or the thermistor. The thermistor is extremely delicate, and I have gone through many from breakage....so my vote is on the thermistor.

+1 to wardjr on soldering. The v6 should come with wires plus a connector for the thermistor, then crimped with the ferrule provided. For the heater, depending on your board, you will either be able to strip, insert, then tighten the wires at the terminal, or you will splice into the existing lines, twist each old/new lines with a simple knot, then use some heatshrink to shield them.

You'd be talking about the heat cartridge not the thermistor.  If it has the blue wires it could be either the 12v 25watt heater or the 24v 25 watt heater.  I think I would check with your supplier to be sure you understand what you have.  If it is indeed the 12v 25 watt heater that will be just fine.  The difference is next to nothing as far as heat up times and overall performance.
If it ends up being the 24v version you will need to exchange it.