Re: Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament
I would appreciate a retrofit, especially at almost 4x the extrusion rate. Also it would be a lot easier to take apart again if necessary.
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I would appreciate a retrofit, especially at almost 4x the extrusion rate. Also it would be a lot easier to take apart again if necessary.
I would appreciate a retrofit, especially at almost 4x the extrusion rate. Also it would be a lot easier to take apart again if necessary.
No problem, I figure it's only fair for the beta testers. Shoot me an email to confirm shipping details and whatnot.
How perfect does the filament need to be to work in the SD2? If I have some minimal waving in the middle of my new filament, do I need to worry about it not feeding into the SD hotend correctly?
I plan to do my first test prints with some natural abs today/tomorrow.
I also have a 4 lbs. of snow white pellets that I would like to try out. Should I run my filastruder til empty and then load in the snow white or just load it into the hopper when the natural gets low?
Waving is fine. The SD seems very tolerant. I've now run about 2kg of Filastruder filament through the Solidoodle. As long as the bend radius is greater than that of say, a golf ball, you should be fine.
You can run until empty if you want, or just load in when the hopper gets empty. Running until empty means you waste some as its put-puting out, and wast some on the startup transient. Loading when the hopper gets empty means you have a longer period of mixed filament.
That part number is the one I'm using on the Beta 2s. There's no seam inside. I can send you a retrofit kit if you'd like - I'm sending one to Jon.
The nipples on v1 are 44615K454 and 44615K464 - the 8" one is from the same product family.
What is the price on the retrofit kit? 20" a minute sounds pretty good. The less I have to hear that motor run the better.
emailed you...
I'm still not feeling in need of one. I let it pile on the floor, and I spool it with my drill. I spooled what's in the picture above in 30 seconds. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle and build time.
When I try to spool by hand I get a ton of twists that are a pain to deal with. Do you not get this with the drill? or am I doing something wrong?
What is the price on the retrofit kit? 20" a minute sounds pretty good. The less I have to hear that motor run the better.
emailed you...
$15 shipped. I've been putting a folded towel over the motor/bearing area, all the way up to the hopper. It cuts about 5dB off the noise, by my measurements.
On that note, I packed the gearbox with grease, no quieter.
elmoret wrote:I'm still not feeling in need of one. I let it pile on the floor, and I spool it with my drill. I spooled what's in the picture above in 30 seconds. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle and build time.
When I try to spool by hand I get a ton of twists that are a pain to deal with. Do you not get this with the drill? or am I doing something wrong?
You have to over under if you're doing it by hand, or else every loop puts a twist in the remaining filament. Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqbYyaUY5Sk
The drill method puts no twists in the filament. I'm limited only by how fast I can spin the spool without it getting super wobbly.
DePartedPrinter wrote:elmoret wrote:I'm still not feeling in need of one. I let it pile on the floor, and I spool it with my drill. I spooled what's in the picture above in 30 seconds. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle and build time.
When I try to spool by hand I get a ton of twists that are a pain to deal with. Do you not get this with the drill? or am I doing something wrong?
You have to over under if you're doing it by hand, or else every loop puts a twist in the remaining filament. Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqbYyaUY5Sk
The drill method puts no twists in the filament. I'm limited only by how fast I can spin the spool without it getting super wobbly.
Drill method it is going to be then.
What spool did you end up printing and what was your method for attaching it to the drill?
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/589/fila … oolsreels/
Used the "rich man"'s spool, 80% infill, attached to drill by putting a 1" spade bit in the drill, wrapping that in a washcloth, and sliding the spool over the washcloth. The cloth gripped the inner plastic quite well. I can post a picture when I get home.
For everybody who is looking into colorants for the machine:
I messed around with more HDPE colorant + ABS all weekend and I still cant find a combination that works for consistent color. I have a theory that it might work but would require starting with something that looks more like powder instead of pellets. I think the HDPE is cooking against the inside of the machine before it has a chance to mix with the ABS. If it were in a powder form and you could more consistently mix it before it went into the machine it might work.
ABS colorant has worked perfectly at 50:1
ABS colorant has worked perfectly at 50:1
Pictures?
DePartedPrinter wrote:ABS colorant has worked perfectly at 50:1
Pictures?
This is all I have on me at the moment. I have grey and black abs colorant that I still need to run.
The blue in the picture is HDPE colorant. The picture doesn't represent the green very well.
"If it were in a powder form and you could more consistently mix it before it went into the machine it might work. "
Grind it down with a Mortar and Pestle, you can find them a variety of places...here in Texas you can get them really cheap at the Hispanic markets. or a automatic coffee grinder would work equally well.
"If it were in a powder form and you could more consistently mix it before it went into the machine it might work. "
Grind it down with a Mortar and Pestle, you can find them a variety of places...here in Texas you can get them really cheap at the Hispanic markets. or a automatic coffee grinder would work equally well.
I guess ideally I would want to grind the ABS as well. Coffee grinder would probably work...
elmoret how well do you think the filastruder would handle powered ABS?
after grinding put them in a rotary type rock tumbler for a period of time
elmoret how well do you think the filastruder would handle powered ABS?
Not as well as pellets. The auger to wall clearance is much less than the diameter of pellets, but greater than powder. I'd guess it works but your output rate drops. Hard to say for sure though!
DePartedPrinter wrote:elmoret how well do you think the filastruder would handle powered ABS?
Not as well as pellets. The auger to wall clearance is much less than the diameter of pellets, but greater than powder. I'd guess it works but your output rate drops. Hard to say for sure though!
I probably don't need to get them as fine as powder but the colorant needs to be more dispersed among the ABS.
This is what it looks like now mixed pre extrusion.
This is what it looks like now mixed pre extrusion.
It's crazy to me that so little colorant is enough to make the results you posted earlier!
How much clear ABS do you have? I'm interested in some...
I was wondering if it would be possible to get a homogeneous enough mixture given the high ratio, size of pellets, and small batch size. A blade grinder might chop the pellets enough without getting a powder, a burr grinder might be too effective.
Full pellets may be more of a problem if you want to mix colors. There would be so few of each pellet that they may be spaced too far apart to really mix. Too fine of a powder would cause problems with changing color, because the powder could be hard to flush. Some sort of sifting after grinding could insure that nothing goes in the hopper that is smaller than the clearance around the auger.
Is there a way to load a magazine that could insert one per so many revolutions?
There could be something like a color hopper upstream, setup like a coin operated candy dispenser that could drop a pellet with a turn of a gear. You would need to figure out how much plastic is conveyed with a turn of the auger so you know how to work out the ratio.
The desktop factory people might like that. They included coloring in the requirements, but you can do that by premixing the pellets. The addition of a masterbatch dispenser might give it a leg up.
DeParted - have you tried grinding/chopping the colorant, but leaving the raw ABS in pellet form, then mixing in a cup before loading?
Once I found this topic via google.. I had to join! I've printed about 6kg of plastic since getting my first 3d printer in June last year. I've spent a ton of hours calibrating the replicator.
Hopefully I'm not shunned off the board since I own a replicator ![]()
However I would love to join the beta program... Assuming you can ship to Canada.
Ben
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