[ Closed ] Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament (Page 10 of 58)

It's literally called header wrap:

http://www.amazon.com/High-Temperature- … B003RBF2OS

It's meant for wrapping exhaust headers on a car to keep heat away from other engine parts. I have leftovers from my other hobby - a turbocharged Nissan.

Destroyed thrust bearing...hopefully I will have the new one in by tomorrow.

Would a short, stiff spring work to even out any misalignment between the collar and flange?  Or is the force great enough to bottom out any spring that might go in there?

From an email to Nickythegreek:

Make sure the faces of the bearing are as parallel as possible, by adjusting the nuts on the threaded rod. There should not be a gap between he bearing face and the shaft collar, or between the other bearing face and the threaded bushing. You can check this with a piece of paper when the machine is running and loaded. Try to slide the paper between the shaft collar and the bearing face. If it slides in, adjust the nuts to tighten that side a bit, or loosen the other side.

is their a chart any where that givel feet per pound on this diameter filiment

5 gallon bucket did not work at all. It just ended up causing the filament to jump off the guide and bunch up.

I have parts on order for the filament spooler.  Unfortunately the motors and voltage regulators are coming from China and will be 3 weeks or so.  But by then someone will have figured out how to wire up Lyman's spooler with sensors, right?

At $150 for the kit, you have plenty of room for a spooler while staying under $250.  For the competition, you would need to design your own, but it would be necessary to have one.  Without controlling what happens to the filament after the nozzle, you can't guarantee the tolerance.  If the post extrusion cool end can insure the finished diameter no matter what happens at the other end, then that part gets a lot easier.

I just started it up again tonight.  I marked a couple of points at the 1 minute and 3 minute marks so I can check the feed rate, but I don't want to measure until those points are on the floor.    The spooler would be convenient, but I feel like you need some definite control of the filament after extrusion to ensure consistent results for everyone.   Mine still wobbles quite a bit at the nozzle from the filament getting pushed around by the floor.

How far is everyone's filastruder from the floor?  I had a small table that would put the bottom of the platform 23" from the floor, but felt like I was having issues with the filament bending on the floor. I am now on a table that puts the bottom of the platform 29" and I feelt it is a bit better, but the filament is still getting some angles in it.

Just designed this little guy to clip onto the platform and help with guiding the filament, mine is falling off the brass/washers. I tried a brass eye hook at the end of the platform, but it did not perform well once the filament hit the floor.

I have been thinking about an arduino with an ultrasonic transducer for the measuring and speed control and just having the filament come out over a thin sheet of something flexible that would not put too much resistance to the filament, with the transducer mounted below the sheet(pointing up) measuring the downward deflection and controlling the uptake reel to keep an even pace... sounds simple enough and cheap too <20$ for the electronics. I guess there would be quite a few optical ways to measure the filament droop too but this just seemed fairly simple and forgiving... I guess we will see

Yes, that's my thought. Beta 1 gave me 6"/minute as well. That's all that's really changed between them. Same auger, temperatures, melt zone, motor, etc.

Edit: Just spooled up another pound. The Filastruder is putting out filament faster than I can print spools! Also, after thinking about it, the auger model is the same, but it's not the same auger. I could have cut this one at a different angle, which would alter its efficiency.