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Thanks I appreciate all the help. I did a much better job tightening the belts and aligned the back pull from the y motor. Printed a cube and got 0.635mm so should I try 0.75 multiplier and adjust 0.02 as needed?
Assuming you have dealt with the backlash...
That still seems too large. Have you measured your filament diameter and set it appropriately in Slic3r? If you are using SD filament, it should be about 1.68 mm, with a tolerance of +/- 0.01mm, in my experience. Check with calipers. If you are using Octave, it is of high enough tolerance that just using 1.75mm has worked fine for me for every spool. If it's something else, measure it along several meters and input the average. I'd measure 4 or 5 points about a meter apart each.
You want to measure the cube like this. 
(source: https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … flow-rate/)
Measure all 4 sides. I like to throw out the largest one (usually the side with start points), and take the average of the remaining 3. If you have nice solid calipers like a Mitutoyo one side is probably sufficient--I just do this because my cheap calipers are a tad sloppy.
I am using SD filament and I haven't check it with calipers. All the readings from the cube I printed at these settings are pretty good about .482mm. I printed a filled cube and the spacing between the threads is almost gone.
I am using SD filament and I haven't check it with calipers. All the readings from the cube I printed at these settings are pretty good about .482mm. I printed a filled cube and the spacing between the threads is almost gone.
This was with my top solid infill at 0 or default. I tried with .48 and the spacing was a little worse.
widespreaddeadhead wrote:I am using SD filament and I haven't check it with calipers. All the readings from the cube I printed at these settings are pretty good about .482mm. I printed a filled cube and the spacing between the threads is almost gone.
This was with my top solid infill at 0 or default. I tried with .48 and the spacing was a little worse.
Then try it at .36 that is the tool path so decreasing it for a top layer will definitely close the gaps. Though still just a work around an underlying issue it will close the gaps.
Tried .36 and I'd ay about half the of the top is solid. Still have some thin lines you can see through but overall not bad. I'll probably just re-tension the belts and be sure the back pulley is aligned with the motor pulley. Other than that I don't really know what else to do. Are there any other calibration objects I should try to print?
Just try some regular prints and see how they turn out.
Turned out not so well. The overall quality is alright, except on the top layer, which looks very sloppy. It also looks like about halfway through the print, it started printing a few mm from where it was...
Can't get past this issue. Re-tensioned belts, made sure y-pulley was flush, changing the top infill. At most I can get about 50% of the top layer solid, and I'm pretty much out of ideas.
You definitely had an axis shift.
What brand/kind of filament is that?
What % infill did you use?
we're using the ABS filament solidoodle sent us. Our purple has solidoodle logo on it but the natural I'm using now doesn't have a label.
Right now infill is at 5%, but during this i've had it up to 30/35%
The was the one and only time i've had an axis shift, haven't had one again.
One solid layer should be enough with gaps closed, but out of curiosity how many top solid layers are you specifying in your slicer?
You can learn a lot about your printer using 100% infill.
I would strongly suggest you try a roll of Octave ABS.
Did I mention the phrase "strongly suggest"? 
You can learn a lot about your printer using 100% infill.
I would strongly suggest you try a roll of Octave ABS.
Did I mention the phrase "strongly suggest"?
+1
I recently ran a roll of "questionable" filament and had awful top layers...switched to Octave and...poof...no problems!
Seconding 100% infill. It brings out all sorts of calibration problems. In particular I've noticed slop is a lot more obvious in 100% fill prints because it will try to "spill" over the perimeters if your platform isn't rigid enough.
One solid layer should be enough with gaps closed, but out of curiosity how many top solid layers are you specifying in your slicer?
We are using 3 top solid layers.
Printing a calibration cube at 100% infill right now.
I'm starting to think it's the filament because I just finished building a Prusa i3 at home and i started using the test filament from SD for calibration but it was jamming anytime I tried to extract it. I loaded up some Hatchbox filament I got off Amazon and started printing a filament holder the was a several inches long. Much to my excitement the edges all stuck perfect, and this was without an enclosure and with the printer sitting next to a window. So I think we'll try some Octave filament, based on suggestions , and get some in our schools colors.
110. (Thanks for the reply!)
It's set at 110, but have you verified it with an IR thermometer? A few others have had issues and found temps far below 90C..
limbertt wrote:110. (Thanks for the reply!)
It's set at 110, but have you verified it with an IR thermometer? A few others have had issues and found temps far below 90C..
No, we haven't yet, and I'm starting to believe that might be our problem with sticking. My Prusa i3 bed at 100C feels warmer than our Workbench at 110C. Our shop or consumer sciences teacher probably has one I can borrow.
Other than that we're still having troubles with print quality. Our calibration pieces always have imperfect circles, and the honeycomb infill always looks sloppy. Bridging is somewhat of a problem, but I just need to learn some custom GCode to have the print fan enabled during bridging.
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