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So, can someone please take a look at my two pics, and point me in the direction of what would cause this? Having a lot of trouble stopping fairly severe curling at the front edges (actually, at one corner). We applied glue stick to the bed before this print. Just a general direction of what to adjust would be much appreciated. Thanks!
What is your bed temp set at?
Try enclosing your printer. It will help a lot.
Try enclosing your printer. It will help a lot.
We were thinking of that. Will try it.
I like plexiglass with neodymium magnets glued on it. Easy to remove but holds in heat well.
I like plexiglass with neodymium magnets glued on it. Easy to remove but holds in heat well.
Great idea. Was thinking Velcro, but I like the magnets better.
jagowilson wrote:I like plexiglass with neodymium magnets glued on it. Easy to remove but holds in heat well.
Great idea. Was thinking Velcro, but I like the magnets better.
Until you get your acrylic cut you can use Saran wrap to enclose the sides.
I have been very happy with this setup.
Even without an enclosure that is a ton of warping. Are you printing with a raft?
Looks similar to my problem. And I have the stock SD4 enclosure!
Try hairspray for now, or sdd kapton and use slurry...thing wont budge.
Even without an enclosure that is a ton of warping. Are you printing with a raft?
Yes on the raft.
Is this -
- the sort of thing I should try?
No need if you use Aquanet Hairspray...(EDIT) On your print bed, that is 
limbertt wrote:Is this -
- the sort of thing I should try?
No need if you use Aquanet Hairspray...(EDIT) On your print bed, that is
Ok, Aquanet is next.
Spray both sides and let heat adhere the glass to the bed. Skip binder clips, they warp the glass substantially. Cycle the bed from hot to cold once after the first application to the back of the glass. To get the glass off use the scraper Solidoodle gave you. It will come up fairly easily
Also, don't use a raft. 99 times out of 100 you don't need a raft and you'll get far better adhesion printing the first layer of the object directly to be bed. Slowing your first layer speed in slic3r does amazing things as well.
With hairspray, glass, a warm enclosure and the appropriate first layer settings I haven't had a print fail due to significant warping in months.
Spray both sides and let heat adhere the glass to the bed. Skip binder clips, they warp the glass substantially. Cycle the bed from hot to cold once after the first application to the back of the glass. To get the glass off use the scraper Solidoodle gave you. It will come up fairly easily
Also, don't use a raft. 99 times out of 100 you don't need a raft and you'll get far better adhesion printing the first layer of the object directly to be bed. Slowing your first layer speed in slic3r does amazing things as well.
With hairspray, glass, a warm enclosure and the appropriate first layer settings I haven't had a print fail due to significant warping in months.
Wow, there's some good info in there, thanks! I would not have thought about the the clips. Will go over this stuff with my assistant today, and we'll try it all out.
Spray both sides and let heat adhere the glass to the bed. Skip binder clips, they warp the glass substantially. Cycle the bed from hot to cold once after the first application to the back of the glass. To get the glass off use the scraper Solidoodle gave you. It will come up fairly easily
Also, don't use a raft. 99 times out of 100 you don't need a raft and you'll get far better adhesion printing the first layer of the object directly to be bed. Slowing your first layer speed in slic3r does amazing things as well.
With hairspray, glass, a warm enclosure and the appropriate first layer settings I haven't had a print fail due to significant warping in months.
That's some good stuff, How do you come up with these things???
Oh, you forgot to mention that decreasing first layer extrusion width by about 50% will also increase the bond to the glass 
jagowilson wrote:Spray both sides and let heat adhere the glass to the bed. Skip binder clips, they warp the glass substantially. Cycle the bed from hot to cold once after the first application to the back of the glass. To get the glass off use the scraper Solidoodle gave you. It will come up fairly easily
Also, don't use a raft. 99 times out of 100 you don't need a raft and you'll get far better adhesion printing the first layer of the object directly to be bed. Slowing your first layer speed in slic3r does amazing things as well.
With hairspray, glass, a warm enclosure and the appropriate first layer settings I haven't had a print fail due to significant warping in months.
That's some good stuff, How do you come up with these things???
Oh, you forgot to mention that decreasing first layer extrusion width by about 50% will also increase the bond to the glass
Will add that last suggestion to the list. Thanks!
That's some good stuff, How do you come up with these things???
Oh, you forgot to mention that decreasing first layer extrusion width by about 50% will also increase the bond to the glass
I get by with a little help from my friends
Ditch the raft. Add a brim.
Ditch the raft. Add a brim.
What brim width would you recommend?
Personally minimum of 5mm...I just finally added kapton to my glass. W that and use of slurry, I can use no brim and thing is damn near impossible to remove...also have my slurry too thick but experimenting is the name of the game w 3d lrinting. Always changing some value or way I do things
This is frustrating. Changed the speed and extrusion settings of the first layer, used the hairspray, and enclosed the printer. Still curling up almost immediately.
Maybe a brim, next.
What filament are you using? Have you tried a different type?
Have you also verified your bed is actually hot?
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