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Topic: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

So I started my conversion to direct drive, and rebuilt the gantry.
Whipped up three new parts to make it all work. The first part was a direct drive mount for the y-drive
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150126_045918_zps7wysxkty.jpg
Then I designed some new y-axis carriages. The lawsy ones didn't hold the bearings tight, so I tweaked them.http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150126_045908_zpsv3adyync.jpghttp://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150126_045859_zpsiazwiakc.jpg
I removed the 6mm drive rod, and replaced it with a 8mm rod with flanged bearings at both ends. I also eliminated the front pulley blocks, and replaced them with a 8mm rod with flanged bearings at both ends. Here's a pic of where I'm at. Just need to trim the rods and get the extruder mounted again. Also, all pulleys and belts will be gt2.http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150126_045830_zpsi8ggc7ri.jpg

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

Nice work!  You might consider adding 2 pillow blocks to the Y drive rod while you are in there.  Otherwise, it is easy to over tension the belts and induce skipping.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

3 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-26 22:11:58)

Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

I'm not sure if you need a pillow block for a 8mm 34cm long shaft, compared to stock 6mm.

Solidoodle 4

4 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-26 22:42:41)

Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

Ha, I had Similar thoughts for the front idlers. Did you use a punch to enlarge the bearing holes for the 8mm rod or did you file them? Just curious how much larger the hole had to be.

Also, what coupler did you use for direct drive?

Nice work.

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

There isn't much for flexing on the 8mm rods.
I used a step bit to drill them to 5/8", and pressed the flanged bearings into the frame. The coupler is a robotdigg 5mm to 8mm aluminum coupler. The stock extruder mount sucks, so that'll be the the next thing to swap out. I'm very happy with the y-axis movement. By eliminating the front blocks I was able to gain the 15mm lost do to the fan hitting the block. I would really suggest the 8mm y-rods. even with the stock y motor mounting,  you'd eliminate most lash issues.

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

I finally achieved perfect circles.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150127_200227_zpskhqwycwm.jpg
The smallest is 5mm radius, going up by 5mm each ring. I'll try and share my stl files if anyone is interested in them, once I make some small tweeks.

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

Nice work, do you mind sharing the STL for the motor mount?

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

nicely done.... now, time to find 8mm rod... in canada, it's not a piece of cake..

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

This looks very nice.  Well done.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

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Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

Here's the stl file for the motor mount. I mounted it using 3mm threaded rod. The two rods at the rear of the case thread into the motor, and then 3mm nuts are used to snug it to the mount. These have to be installed before the mount is secured to the case. The front rods go through the motor, the mount, and holes need to be drilled in the case. I used two 10mm long 3mm screws for the case mount holes at the back. You need to drill 4 holes total.

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11 (edited by Albertatinker 2015-02-04 01:41:12)

Re: sd4 coverted to direct drive and gt2

I'm re-designing the carriages I made, since mine required some messing around to not distort the linear bearings. I've got a new design that should work really well, and I'll add it to my thingiverse account when I get them done. I use the same name as here. I'll post here when they go up. The carriages with a belt tension adjustment is necessary for installing the front idler rod.

Also, I live in Canada, and bought my rods from robotdiggs. Depending where you live, you can buy 8mm shafts locally.