Solidoodle 3 bed heats up, but doesn't move. (Page 2 of 3)

Quick guess if Z is plugged into X and your x carriage is against your end stop z will only move one way.  Plug z into z and adjust your VREF on that driver by turning it clockwise about 1/8.

using a non metallic screwdriver turn this screw 1/16 to an 1/8 turn.  You can't hurt anything by turning too much but it really should only take a little bit.
Actually its the one just above the one I have marked.

At this point (assuming you have vertical clearance between the E3D nozzle and the bed so it won't crash), what is the Log report if you click the "home all" button and then enter the M119 command?

When I click the home all button, only the extruder moves. Z home and any z commands do not work.

Completely CCW, the line points north west to south east. completely CW, North east to southwest. I have tried at both and nothing. I have tried with the line vertical and horizontal- nothing. tried a few in between- nothing I am suppose to hit the reset button after each time I set it?

Can I adjust and command the z while still on? I was unplugging, adjusting, and then plugging it back in. The endstops are working fine now. The extruder homes nicely and no crashing. Right now the screw for the z endstop is not touching it though. I wanted to br sure the extruder wasnt hitting the bed.

Still not working. I tried all possible positions. When I hit home all and then M119, I get :

19:47:18.808 : Reporting endstop status
19:47:18.808 : x_max: TRIGGERED
19:47:18.808 : y_max: TRIGGERED
19:47:18.808 : z_min: TRIGGERED

Yes. I turned the z screw manually so that it hit the z endstop. then turned the vref at all possible angles and try to hit any of the z commands. I tried switching the Z to the x and y motor plugs, and no movement.

EDIT: Retried plugging the z into Y and X. Still moves only up.

Okay. I moved them all in the middle so that they were not hitting the end stops. Switched Z with the Y plug.The bed moves up AND down now. Extruder only moves left and right. Im guessing a bad Z wire?

Switched the Y back in. Nothing with the manual Z controls. How do I go about replacing/fixing the Z driver?

If you've got a printrboard I believe the drivers on mine were soldered in. If you have 100% confirmed it is a bad driver (they aren't that common, from what I understand), then you're looking at a new board unless you have the skill to replace it yourself. From looking at my old board it looks like some fine soldering work.

Thank you all as well for helping me diagnose what is going on with the printer.

Are there any plug and play options for these boards that are not the standard solidoodle ones? I dont mind upgrading the firmware and stuff from the computer. It's just my soldering skills are not astonishing lol.
Anyone point me to a good board and the parts needed? Just looking at these boards looks daunting and I dont want to screw up another one.

Love the RUMBA, but none of the stock molex connectors are gonna fit it. There are screw terminals where you need it if you're fine with stripping the wires in the printer. It just depends on how plug and play you want versus how much of an improvement you'll see in quality. You won't regret the work you put into installing a RUMBA with DRV8825 drivers. But the most important thing you do at this point is, if you need a motherboard, don't waste your time or money with anything that won't give you 1/32 microstepping. I never would've guessed how much robust drivers on the extruder alone can improve results, but get It on all axes if you can.