Glass Bed (Page 9 of 9)

The first time I tried this with picture frame glass it didnt work so well.....But after going through kapton like crazy, I finally did some research on it. Everywhere I went people were saying to use Pyrex. Well my local glass shop couldnt get Pyrex but the could order Tempered glass. I ended up going that route and I couldnt be happier.

Also for people who have the S4 but want to retain the use of there adjustable Z Axis wheel (or any printer really) Ive found that if you just go to your local hobby shop that sells RC cars and Planes (or in my case Drones, which are basically RC planes or Quadcopters) they have pieces that are used to join servo arms, or on quadcopters they use them as spacers to stack plates on top of each other. Anyways they easily thread onto the end of your printers stock Z axis adjuster screw, and give you the added length you need if you have a glass bed or longer hot end (or both)

One more think Ive found. Those binder clips usually get hung up on the arms that you use to open them up and attach them. But once youve got them clipped onto the glass (I use the corners) the arms com off by just squeezing the part of the arms that goes into the clip together. Once you do that It makes it much more unlikely your print head will catch on it.

I had some left over plain 12" x 12" mirror tiles from another project that were purchased at the local home improvement store - about 1/8" thick. (6 tiles to a box for around $10)

Cut one down to size to fit my SD4 bed with a simple glass cutter ($2.00 item). held in place with binder clips and couldnt be happier! solved my warped bed issue - i can use nearly the whole bed now - and my prints are coming out much nicer since I can now properly level the bed, instead of trying to compensate for the warp.