176

Re: Glass Bed

I just tried a glass bed and aquanet to fix my print curling up problems that seemed to resist all the other fixes described around the solidoodle sites. I now wonder why solidoodle doesn't just ship with a glass bed. It is so fantastically better than the kapton. I finally got a complete print on my brand new solidoodle the first time I tried a glass bed. Everything peeled up before that.

I do wonder if they now ship longer z-stop screws. I didn't have any problems moving the screw enough to account for the 3/32 inch glass (or maybe the folks with z-stop problems were using thicker glass).

177

Re: Glass Bed

I am running my first print on glass right now. It still appears to curl, but it appears to curl more evenly so that space ends up under the base of the whole thing instead of curling extremely at only the corners. I am hoping I make it through the next 3 hours without the print being knocked off. Any recommended hair spray in case aquanet isn't the best product for it?

178

Re: Glass Bed

Rocketman wrote:

I am running my first print on glass right now. It still appears to curl, but it appears to curl more evenly so that space ends up under the base of the whole thing instead of curling extremely at only the corners. I am hoping I make it through the next 3 hours without the print being knocked off. Any recommended hair spray in case aquanet isn't the best product for it?

I had same problem, until I made sure that the glass was at temperature for at last 10 minutes. That thermistor is on the bottom of the bed under the aluminum. It reaches 100 much faster than the top of the glass does. Also, if your print is large and/or solid, glass alone is not enough, you may have to use a brim too.

As for Solidoodle shipping glass, I doubt it. While regular glass does work, it is prone to breakage or shattering. Something I would not sell with a printer. And shipping it with Pyrex or Robax is expensive.

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179

Re: Glass Bed

A brim can also work wonders for preventing curling.

180

Re: Glass Bed

Rocketman, (burning up your fuse up here alone) I think you can keep the temp where it is. The glass bed acts as a heat sink, so it will take a bit longer to heat. Wait even after the temp reading says 100C because that is the actual bed temp, the glass will still absorb heat from the bed for a while before it also gets up to temp. After the glass is well and truly heated, the thermistor reading should be considered as accurate as it ever was.

My $.02

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

181

Re: Glass Bed

I always wait about 10 minutes after temp is reached.  I find that sticking is better once the thermal transfer is more complete.  Simply start the bed heating and go have a meal... by the time you come back from eating, it's warm enough to work.  Also, find a insulator to help hold the heat to the bed.  I use a square pot holder and it actually heats faster than without, just remove before printing.

182

Re: Glass Bed

If I had an object that is exactly 6 inches tall, how do I make sure Repetier knows I actually have a certain amount less vertical to work with when using glass? Assuming I use the full length of the Z limit switch screw, does the 6 inches SD2 promises start from there? lol.

183

Re: Glass Bed

Rocketman, you get a longer screw (stifle joke temptation) to compensate (stifle) for the lack of length (stifle, stifle). (I used the full length of a 25MM long screw and still had to bend the wiper on the limit switch, not recommended.

McMaster sells this little rivet nut (attached) which could be screwed onto the end of a 25MM cap screw to add 9MM to the length. Put a drop of Loc-Tite (blue) on it to keep in in place. That's a hack.

Repetier has nothing to do with it.

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184

Re: Glass Bed

When printing on glass does it tend to curl in time? I have a sheet that appears to now rise up in the corners, and depending on the print I might not always be able to place clips there to hold it down firmly. Does glass get warped to that degree from repeated us (say less than 10 print jobs)?

185

Re: Glass Bed

Maybe if its really crappy glass. I've done 250 prints on a sheet before without issue, though.

186

Re: Glass Bed

elmoret wrote:

Maybe if its really crappy glass. I've done 250 prints on a sheet before without issue, though.

It's just $3 6 by 6 picture frame glass. What do you use?

187

Re: Glass Bed

Same

188 (edited by Books 2013-10-30 02:40:37)

Re: Glass Bed

Just wanted to chime in that I finally got around to getting a glass bed after almost a year of ownership. This is just an unbelievably simple and useful mod that I should have done on day one! I couldn't find a 6x6 picture frame so i'm using some window pane glass (with the help of a glass cutter). I've also used some hair spray and my prints have been coming out wonderfully.

189 (edited by Serin 2013-11-21 04:08:46)

Re: Glass Bed

Glass ahoy!
This is my second glass bed print.
The glass was salvaged from an old photo frame so I can't vouch for the quality.. And it extends beyond the bed by about 30mm in one direction.

The first identical print curled a little off the bed despite the layer of hairspray, so I painted the brim with acetone/ABS goop and that fixed the problem in all but the very corners.
This time round I used a layer of hairspray and a coat of ABS goop on the bed before starting the print, I then painted over the brim.
http://i.imgur.com/hc8D1IR.jpg

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

190

Re: Glass Bed

Simple way to attach glass bed without clips... hear me out...  super glue! 

1) lay down some painters tape on your bed in an x pattern, corners to corners
2) put single drops of super glue on the bottom of your glass, the four corners and the center
3) place your glass

if you have to take it off, peel the painters tape with it or, if you used little enough glue, the glass might just pop off the tape.

The main reason I did this was to keep my print area as large as possible without the chance of the extruder running over the clips, potentially damaging it, or getting caught.

I have been running strong with this method for over two months now, no ill effects...

191

Re: Glass Bed

dpotthast wrote:

Simple way to attach glass bed without clips... hear me out...  super glue! 

1) lay down some painters tape on your bed in an x pattern, corners to corners
2) put single drops of super glue on the bottom of your glass, the four corners and the center
3) place your glass

if you have to take it off, peel the painters tape with it or, if you used little enough glue, the glass might just pop off the tape.

The main reason I did this was to keep my print area as large as possible without the chance of the extruder running over the clips, potentially damaging it, or getting caught.

I have been running strong with this method for over two months now, no ill effects...

As per the other 2 threads you've posted this into:

What temp you run the bed at, or what super glue specifically did you use ?
Unless its the specifically marked high temp stuff - then that is very unusual to last that long.. 'standard' cyanoacrylate is only good to 80°C and will fail at that temp.... only the newer high-temp special stuff is rated higher..

But glad to hear its worked out ok so far! smile - anyone else who has used superglue has had it fail after a period of time for the reasons I just outlined.

192

Re: Glass Bed

I've said it before and I will say it again.  Leave the Kapton on the platform then spray the underside of your glass with the same hairspray you put on the top side.  Put the glass on your platform and heat it up.  No clips, perfectly level glass and it sticks well enough to not move and is still easy enough to remove.  And no I don't have to respray every time I remove it.
I run my bed at 108 and everything seems happy.

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193

Re: Glass Bed

Hi all,

I was wondering if a finely sandblasted glass sheet has ever been tried? I'm thinking about tring that instead of plain glass and hairspay...

www.designerfred.fr      before: Solidoodle 2 + E3D v6 now: MeCreator II and OLO 3D

194

Re: Glass Bed

DesignerFred wrote:

Hi all,

I was wondering if a finely sandblasted glass sheet has ever been tried? I'm thinking about tring that instead of plain glass and hairspay...

Some people use high grit sand paper and claim to have near perfect results with adhesion since the first layer and actually grip.
Sandblasting in specific? I never operated one, so I couldn't say...

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195

Re: Glass Bed

Within this forum, the attempts have not been more successful than plain glass.
On other forums and blogs, there has been positive results in some occasions with the differentiator for success seeming to be it still needed acetone/abs wipe downs and it also has to run hotter.

So if you happen to have some, why not use it, but I wouldn't make a special trip or arrange to have it made..

196

Re: Glass Bed

Ok, thanks guys..

www.designerfred.fr      before: Solidoodle 2 + E3D v6 now: MeCreator II and OLO 3D

197

Re: Glass Bed

It might be worth doing if you want a matte surface for the bottom of your print rather than glossy.

198

Re: Glass Bed

IanJohnson wrote:

It might be worth doing if you want a matte surface for the bottom of your print rather than glossy.


Right, like a mold interior... thanks.

www.designerfred.fr      before: Solidoodle 2 + E3D v6 now: MeCreator II and OLO 3D

199

Re: Glass Bed

Thanks for the tips on upgrading to the glass bed.  I upgraded about 3 months ago and it is working great!  Has similar issues with curling at the start of the print, but I changed the offset for the zaxis a little more and now no more curling or warping.

200 (edited by Tin Falcon 2014-08-03 00:24:40)

Re: Glass Bed

``greetings  borosilicate glass aka pyrex is the best material as it is designed to take the thermal Shock .

I have seen it on amazon and through vendors that sell printer parts kits and supplies.
McMaster Carr sells 1/4 in borosilicate glass plate with ground edges for about $25 for an 8 x 8 and $14 for 6 x 6 . $2 for a can of Aqanet hair spray and $1.50 for a box of binder clips and you are in business. Currently just using window glass from the local hardware store. One caution I will add about the binder clips I used one on each corner in the front and a third  in the rear to the left of the leveling screw.  since the machine max X,Y,Z or home position  is at the back right corner with the nozzle almost touching the bed do not put a clip here  the tip will likely crash against the clip.  three is sufficient.
Tin

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