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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Newest Soldidoodle S4 Extruders not feeding filament
I thought it was specialy machined on the hot end with thinner fins?
It is, but on the other end where you would mount it there are 2 rings above the heat sink. Those 2 rings make it too big to fit into the hole where it would go. Anyways I already ordered a second heatsink for $20 shipped so when It gets hear Ill be able to print out the new mounting piece and swap heatsinks (they just unscrew) So Well see. Unfortunatley the guy that was going to trim it down for me had to work late so It will be tomorrow (hopefully) before Im able to print. I spent 4 hours today looking for a someone in this town who has a 3D printer I could use but nothing. And since I have one about advertising for people that have a file that needs printing. I have a blank website and domain name ready So when I get printing solid for a week I think that is what Ill do. Ill probably order a V6 for the other S4 as well, but order a .1mm nozzle for it.
I would order a stock nozzle But until payday the only money I have is in Paypal and Solidoodle doesnt accept that so I cant order an oem nozzle. And Ive looked EVERYWHERE else for one that will work but there simply are no other nozzles I can find that are as long as what these printers use! Plus solidoodle is in NY and Im in So Cal so Im about as far from them as you can get, making shipping a nightmare.
Hopefully this printers power supply will be enough. The other person using a V6 is running it stock and it works fine. I would do the flash but 1 theres no much out there on how to flash an S4, and 2 Im not going to be printing above 225 anyways so theres really no need./
Same firmware for the SD 2,3 & 4. The need is for proper assembly and because the E3D's read the temp more accurately so for ABS you'll be using a temp of 230-245. The E3D also uses a different thermistor so you'll want to change the firmware.
130-145 for ABS??? the stock SD hotend reads cold and I'm pretty sure the stock firmware won't even allow extrusion at those temps. I don't own an E3D but those numbers don't seem right to me if the e3d reads more accurately.
130-145 for ABS??? the stock SD hotend reads cold and I'm pretty sure the stock firmware won't even allow extrusion at those temps. I don't own an E3D but those numbers don't seem right to me if the e3d reads more accurately.
He means 235-240, simple typo.
Just checking!
Thanks elmoret,
I changed it in the post above.
Fat fingers and a new smart phone with a keyboard I'm not used to.
Seriously that high for ABS? I was thinking I could always go to 224.
I read the guide in the link for flashing the firmware, but there is no reset pins on the back of the s4. I unscrewed the boards cover and tried to look in there but I couldnt really see much of anything.
Seriously that high for ABS? I was thinking I could always go to 224.
I read the guide in the link for flashing the firmware, but there is no reset pins on the back of the s4. I unscrewed the boards cover and tried to look in there but I couldnt really see much of anything.
Ok I did the Firmware update. Its actually not that bad and took me 20 minutes. Just follow the instruction that you can get to from the link on the first page (then theres another link to follow) I took the plastic box holding the circuit board off and at the back it said solidoodle printerboard revision E and in the middle of the circuit board there are to of the longest jumper pins I have ever seen. You put a jumper on that, and at bottom right of the circuit board their is a small button....Thats the reset button. So once you have your new file which I will attach which means you can skip the whole arduino part (although I would install it first for the drivers just in case) and take the bootloaderHID extracted folder and put it in the root of C so its easy to find....put this file inside the folder too. Then navigate to it in the command prompt (go ahead and press the reset button with the jumper on now) and either paste or type "hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex" (no Quotations) and hit enter. If you did it right it will say programming.............................................followed by Booting. Take the jumper off, hit reset again and wait a minute. Now connect with repeiter host and when you connect it will say Firmware_Name:Marlin V1 Blah Blah for V6. That means your done and you can put the board case back together!
I dont know why but Ive got everything working perfect, but This printer does not like that V6 thermostat. I ended up having to use the old one and its printing great at 215. Thing I was worried about was heat transferring since its being held metal to metal, but that heatsink and fan keep it cool to the touch so no problems there. Im not even sure If I will bother using the new mount when the new heatsink gets here because this is working great. And that V6 Heats up So damn fast its crazy. I left the cables long just in case and cut about half of it off and zip tied the rest.
The only Problem is as soon as I plug that thermostat in it reads max temp...I tried reversing polarity and nothing. So I just used the stock solidoodle for now. Too bad because I really like having a screw to hold it in place.
Use a multimeter on the thermistor. If it's reading max temp I believe that's a short, because the resistance decreases with increasing temp. I might have this backwards though.either way, look for a short or open circuit.
I think you made a thing too complicate, if your SD4' s extruder and hot end
were working well, and you didn't forget put the plastic tube in, you should
check if the hot end was clogged？if you can not clean it up, just let
Solidoole send you a free hotend, because you just bought this new SD4,
Why other SD4 user doesn't have this issue? I mean that there are some,
but not too many, so your one may be a defect part, it was assembled wrong,
or you just buy a new one, better you spend a lot time and money to change
A lot of parts.
Use a multimeter on the thermistor. If it's reading max temp I believe that's a short, because the resistance decreases with increasing temp. I might have this backwards though.either way, look for a short or open circuit.
You are correct, he didn't insulate the thermistor leads properly. This results in a max temp error.
BTW tritium it's a thermistor, not a thermostat. 
Man You have no idea what I went through. Thankfully the people at soildoodle were very helpful...but the first printer I had broke, So I sent it in, and they sent me a new one. The next one they sent me was broken when I got it in shipping (one of the carriages was broken in half) So they sent me a new one out Immediatley 2nd day air. That one had all the latest mods like an all extruder assembly and one piece belts, along with the beefed up pulley gear holder/belt tensioners. But worked for a little bit and then quit feeding. So while trying to troubleshoot that I got a hot clog, which on an S4 with such a long one piece tube and nozzle is very hard to clear, and ended up breaking off.
So I ordered a E3D V6 hot End which is 100% better then anything Ive ever seen. I mean they only had to engineer a single part, so they did that Exeptionally well. It heats VERY quickly, The Thermristor is held in place with it's own hole and a set screw to hold it in place......But when I got It I didnt have the capacity to print, so I couldnt print the mount for it. So I just grinded off the mounting rings so it would slide into the stock hole, and since it was modular I was able to order the piece I ground down for $20. Before I did that I spent 2 days looking for Anyone or anyplace locally that I could get a part 3D printed for the mount. So rather then spend $25 plus shipping and a week to have it mail ordered from a place that would print it, I went ahead and modded the part (Got rid off the mounting rings) So it would slide into the stock mount. So now back to the feeding problem.....
The reason it worked at first was due to the screw holding the spring loaded piece that holds the pulley against the bearing being tight, but once it loosened the piece was able to move and since they forgot to put the insert inside of that piece that allowed it to stay centered. Without that, the hole was so big it moved the fulcrum point and screwed with everything and wouldnt let it feed. But since I now had the very latest printer, neither I nor anyone else was familiar with it needing an insert......All of the ones before had the screw hole the same size as the screw. But luckily someone spotted the hole being too big and I was able to look at the printer that was DOA due to the carriage break and use the insert from that one to make mine work.
So Now I am printing again, and with this new E3D Hot end and nozzle Im able to print much more precisley. The only problems Ive had with it was Initially I followed the instructions to use the new Thermristor, but for some strange reason the instructions I went off of had the wrong # for the Thermristor. Anyways sorry for the rant, but there was just a number of variables that made it much harder to troubleshoot then it normally would. Only people with Solidoodle 4 printers made after late March of this year could help me....and then only those that saw a picture of my printer without the screw in (Because the washer covered the larger screw hole) AND had taken that piece off and noticed the insert. And when you figure that when you order a printer, Its probably from stock that is at least a couple months old.
I don't know why I said Thermostat..... I think my spellcheck changed it since thermristor is not in the Dictionary. Anyways The reason it was going max temp was due to an error in the instructions that I went off of. Someone put 6 where they should have put 5. I did later after changing the firmware and going to the new E3D Thermristor run in to a shorting problem when tightening the set screw. The first time it was perfect with those nice heat resistant wire covers all the way on...The second time it wasn't as as perfect as the first time with freshly run cables. Anyways all is well now thanks to some help Thanks guys.....
Can't wait to get my e3d going. had to upgrade Mobo and still need to design and print a mount for it but once that's done I'll be on my way to it.
Glad you got your issues resolved.
Thank you, Its really worth the effort.
What mount did you use? I've got one printing right now, just curious what you chose.
Well initially I didnt have a Functioning printer so I had to grind the mounting rings off and just mount it like the stock SD4 mount. But at the same time I ordered another heatsink ($20 shipped) So once it was printed I could print the correct mount....(Cheaper then having it printed and ordering the mount) And I did end up printing this one: http://www.solidoodles.com/uploads/doodle?id=470 which is probably the best mount around.
But it worked so well the way it was that I just didnt want to change anything.....But a couple days ago I took it off to clean some ABS Residue off of it with Acetone (Which Basicaly Destroys ABS) And I decided to change the mount. The heatsink came off easily enough But when I went to put the new mount on I found out the mounting screws were too short. You need and M3x30mm At least and hardly any hardware stores carry that. I did find them on Ebay for $2 (for like 20) and I managed to find a US supplier. I just ordered them so Im still using the mount without the top rings....which like I said works great. You could even just take off the top ring and leave the bottom if you wanted to.
Anyways if you havn't updated your firmware yet, I have the correct file and its pretty easy to do if you follow the link on the first page. I still think you would need to install the Arduino IDE for the drivers, but after that just skip to the end and upload the file That I will attach. The boot pins that need the Jumper are easy to spot because there like 1" long and stick out from the middle of the motherboard, and the reset button is also right there on the motherboard part that would be closest to you if you open the door to the printer. Also this thermristor is way more accurate so you will have to print at 235C for ABS.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Newest Soldidoodle S4 Extruders not feeding filament
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