But it worked so well the way it was that I just didnt want to change anything.....But a couple days ago I took it off to clean some ABS Residue off of it with Acetone (Which Basicaly Destroys ABS) And I decided to change the mount. The heatsink came off easily enough But when I went to put the new mount on I found out the mounting screws were too short. You need and M3x30mm At least and hardly any hardware stores carry that. I did find them on Ebay for $2 (for like 20) and I managed to find a US supplier. I just ordered them so Im still using the mount without the top rings....which like I said works great. You could even just take off the top ring and leave the bottom if you wanted to.

Anyways if you havn't updated your firmware yet, I have the correct file and its pretty easy to do if you follow the link on the first page. I still think you would need to install the Arduino IDE for the drivers, but after that just skip to the end and upload the file That I will attach. The boot pins that need the Jumper are easy to spot because there like 1" long and stick out from the middle of the motherboard, and the reset button is also right there on the motherboard part that would be closest to you if you open the door to the printer. Also this thermristor is way more accurate so you will have to print at 235C for ABS.

Glad you got your issues resolved.

So I ordered a E3D V6 hot End which is 100% better then anything Ive ever seen. I mean they only had to engineer a single part, so they did that Exeptionally well. It heats VERY quickly, The Thermristor is held in place with it's own hole and a set screw to hold it in place......But when I got It I didnt have the capacity to print, so I couldnt print the mount for it. So I just grinded off the mounting rings so it would slide into the stock hole, and since it was modular I was able to order the piece I ground down for $20. Before I did that I spent 2 days looking for Anyone or anyplace locally that I could get a part 3D printed for the mount. So rather then spend $25 plus shipping and a week to have it mail ordered from a place that would print it, I went ahead and modded the part (Got rid off the mounting rings) So it would slide into the stock mount. So now back to the feeding problem.....

The reason it worked at first was due to the screw holding the spring loaded piece that holds the pulley against the bearing being tight, but once it loosened the piece was able to move and since they forgot to put the insert inside of that piece that allowed it to stay centered. Without that, the hole was so big it moved the fulcrum point and screwed with everything and wouldnt let it feed. But since I now had the very latest printer, neither I nor anyone else was familiar with it needing an insert......All of the ones before had the screw hole the same size as the screw. But luckily someone spotted the hole being too big and I was able to look at the printer that was DOA due to the carriage break and use the insert from that one to make mine work.

So Now I am printing again, and with this new E3D Hot end and nozzle Im able to print much more precisley. The only problems Ive had with it was Initially I followed the instructions to use the new Thermristor, but for some strange reason the instructions I went off of had the wrong # for the Thermristor. Anyways sorry for the rant, but there was just a number of variables that made it much harder to troubleshoot then it normally would. Only people with Solidoodle 4 printers made after late March of this year could help me....and then only those that saw a picture of my printer without the screw in (Because the washer covered the larger screw hole) AND had taken that piece off and noticed the insert. And when you figure that when you order a printer, Its probably from stock that is at least a couple months old.

Use a multimeter on the thermistor. If it's reading max temp I believe that's a short, because the resistance decreases with increasing temp. I might have this backwards though.either way, look for a short or open circuit.

You are correct, he didn't insulate the thermistor leads properly. This results in a max temp error.

BTW tritium it's a thermistor, not a thermostat.

The only Problem is as soon as I plug that thermostat in it reads max temp...I tried reversing polarity and nothing. So I just used the stock solidoodle for now. Too bad because I really like having a screw to hold it in place.

I read the guide in the link for flashing the firmware, but there is no reset pins on the back of the s4. I unscrewed the boards cover and tried to look in there but I couldnt really see much of anything.

I read the guide in the link for flashing the firmware, but there is no reset pins on the back of the s4. I unscrewed the boards cover and tried to look in there but I couldnt really see much of anything.