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Topic: calibration cube

is the right stl file a complete cube or an open top box? all I found was closed hollow cube and cant get Slic3r to stop making a raft, 10 layers bottom and 2 perimiters no matter how many times I try and reset save re-slice.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: calibration cube

ok found right box and test print came out to .41mm all 4 sides

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

3

Re: calibration cube

Normally I use a plain 20mm cube (solid), and instruct slic3r to perform about 2 bottom layers (make sure it sticks...), 0 top layers, just 1 perimeter and 0% infill.

I usually create this profile from my existing normal profile, so it picks up all the other settings identically for a fair comparison!

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

4

Re: calibration cube

grob wrote:

Normally I use a plain 20mm cube (solid), and instruct slic3r to perform about 2 bottom layers (make sure it sticks...), 0 top layers, just 1 perimeter and 0% infill.

I usually create this profile from my existing normal profile, so it picks up all the other settings identically for a fair comparison!

+1

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions