1 Topic by AZERATE

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Topic: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

I slapped on a mirror bed a few months ago and have experimented between different hairsprays, ABS slurry, and even different glues. But it seems anything I print that covers more of the bed refuses to stay put. Most of my designs do not need to be perfect, but I'm trying to get everything printed to upgrade to Lawsy's carriages and it is not going so well.
http://i.imgur.com/6jIY0FX.jpg
Above image was printed at .1mm at 65% infill. Feed 100/Flow 95

http://i.imgur.com/7csWOGR.jpg
This part was printed at .2mm at 80% infill and has significantly less warping. I want to say the Feed/Flow were even at 100. Bed temp for both prints was 90c.

I experiment with my settings almost daily and am having fun getting it dialed in, but the inconsistencies of adhesion is making me scratch my head.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

2 Reply by Briggs

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

Draw into your 3d model your own "brim". Still use slic3r brim. Use abs slurry. Slap on with small brush while the bed is hot. Go with much less infill, say .35. Works great for me.

3 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

First off use .3 no need to waste time and set infill to 100%.  Then think back to when I talked about reducing first layer extrusion width to like .25 or less.  This is going to allow you to set your z-height damn near on the bed.  At the same time run that bed temp up to 108 - 110.  Use a 3 mm brim but it shouldn't be needed.  Filament temp should be about 245 with E3d.  What your looking for is that first layer to be thin an almost semi transparent.  Also z-offset should be set to zero.  If your top isn't enclosed then make something temporary to help keep the heat in.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

4 Reply by AZERATE (edited by AZERATE 2014-05-05 02:53:56)

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

Thank you both! It seems Minnesota is filled with good advisors smile
I added a 2mm brim, lowered infill to .35, and am currently running feed 100/flow 95 and am having near perfect results. My solid layers was set to 8top/8bottom (no idea why. I can;t find it in my notes), so I scaled that back to 5 and 5.
I also added a little acetone to my slurry to thin it out some. These are my results:
http://i.imgur.com/XTxTXe1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3ckuChb.jpg

wardjr wrote:

First off use .3 no need to waste time and set infill to 100%.  Then think back to when I talked about reducing first layer extrusion width to like .25 or less.

Please refresh my memory as to where I can find that setting. My first layer is pretty thin as it is, but I feel it could be a little more dialed in.
My top is uncovered as I am in the middle of designing a new case. My current one is only for keeping things cool and keeping a toddler out from the wires and whatnot. I shortchanged the height on the sides hmm

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

I have a .60 nozzle so use your own numbers (about .20-.25).  Those parts should really be solid here's the settings I'd use 
2 perimeters and 2 top and bottom layers.  with infill set to 1 and squish it as much as possible.  Then use some tape or what ever to close in the top it will make a huge difference.  I have printed those same parts with a printer setup just like yours so I know it can be done without slurry or glue.  In fact I just threw one hole set of those parts out I should have sent them to you.
http://i.imgur.com/rKA8pG6.png

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

6 Reply by Skyminer

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

Does putting a cooling fan on the nozzle help at all with lifting?  Or is that just for bridging and curling overhangs?

7 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

Skyminer wrote:

Does putting a cooling fan on the nozzle help at all with lifting?  Or is that just for bridging and curling overhangs?

For PLA you want a fan whether or not you have a case, but especially if you do.
A fan will help for both ABS and PLA in bringing/overhangs, but it would typically compound problems with lifting in ABS.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

8 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Lifting issues on medium sized prints

wardjr wrote:

In fact I just threw one hole set of those parts out I should have sent them to you.

*shakes fists at the sky screaming "KAHN!"* big_smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!