1 (edited by zipperboy 2014-02-26 20:06:35)

Topic: New heating bed problems !

Okay so I bought a 6x6 pcb for my solidoodle 2 I also bought a thermistor wired everything up and it heats up fine so i just tried printing and the power completely stops then turns on and then neither the extruder or bed keep heating they just stop and the temp  starts dropping I figure it has to do with the power supply but i did upgrade from the basic power brick to a 120W power supply do i need more power ? please help

2

Re: New heating bed problems !

I don't think 120 watts is enough, that's only 10 amps at 12 volts. I think that's what the stock supply was and that's just enough to get by. If your new heater needs more power than the original your going to need a bigger supply. When my stock supply started to die I replaced it with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Switch … wer+supply

That's a 30 amp 360 watt supply for less than $30. So far so good. I've only added a couple of extra fans so far, but I've got plenty of watts to spare for future upgrades ;-)

TiM

3 (edited by zipperboy 2014-02-27 19:25:38)

Re: New heating bed problems !

mr_tim34 wrote:

I don't think 120 watts is enough, that's only 10 amps at 12 volts. I think that's what the stock supply was and that's just enough to get by. If your new heater needs more power than the original your going to need a bigger supply. When my stock supply started to die I replaced it with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Switch … wer+supply

That's a 30 amp 360 watt supply for less than $30. So far so good. I've only added a couple of extra fans so far, but I've got plenty of watts to spare for future upgrades ;-)

TiM

awesome thanks alot i appreciate it i just ordered one for myself smile only thing im confused about is how to hooke it up do i just plug the pcb wire into one of the  inputs on this ? im really confused xD

4

Re: New heating bed problems !

Yup, into the PCB power input terminals, same as the old supply.

Currently, red wire should go to + and the black wire goes to -, right?

For the new supply, you'll need to make up your own wires to go between. Connect something from any of the "+V" terminals on the new supply (they're all connected to the same thing) to the + input of the PCB, and one of the "-V" terminals to the - input of the PCB.

You could hack some of the wire off the old PSU, or use wire out of an old extension cord, or buy some by the m/ft from an electronics store (get the largest multi-stranded single-core cable that will fit into the PCB screw terminals).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

5

Re: New heating bed problems !

grob wrote:

Yup, into the PCB power input terminals, same as the old supply.

Currently, red wire should go to + and the black wire goes to -, right?

For the new supply, you'll need to make up your own wires to go between. Connect something from any of the "+V" terminals on the new supply (they're all connected to the same thing) to the + input of the PCB, and one of the "-V" terminals to the - input of the PCB.

You could hack some of the wire off the old PSU, or use wire out of an old extension cord, or buy some by the m/ft from an electronics store (get the largest multi-stranded single-core cable that will fit into the PCB screw terminals).

can u show me like a diagram i know that sounds dumb but i cant find any screw terminals on my boards i had a 120w ac adapter hooked up to my printer previously

6

Re: New heating bed problems !

Um, my bad, you're fine... I forgot to ask: some SD boards have screw terminals for power, but I think the newer ones have a barrel-type DC power connector. Does your power supply connection use one of these?
http://www.altex.com/GetImage.ashx?Path=%7e%2fAssets%2fProductImages%2fpl118.jpg&maintainAspectRatio=true&maxHeight=300&maxWidth=300
If you do you can either:
(a) Sacrifice the old power supply by chopping off and reusing the cable and connector,
(b) Going to the internet or an electronics store and buying a new connector and some cable to solder up a new one, or
(c) Avoid soldering by buying an adapter on the net that has screw terminals, like this:
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/images/products/display/rp7896.jpg

I'll confirm the exact sizes of everything when I get a chance.

Although the wiki talks about screw terminals too, it may be of help, especially with the wall power wiring.
http://www.soliwiki.com/Upgrade_The_Power_Supply

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

7 (edited by zipperboy 2014-03-03 22:47:53)

Re: New heating bed problems !

grob wrote:

Um, my bad, you're fine... I forgot to ask: some SD boards have screw terminals for power, but I think the newer ones have a barrel-type DC power connector. Does your power supply connection use one of these?
http://www.altex.com/GetImage.ashx?Path=%7e%2fAssets%2fProductImages%2fpl118.jpg&maintainAspectRatio=true&maxHeight=300&maxWidth=300
If you do you can either:
(a) Sacrifice the old power supply by chopping off and reusing the cable and connector,
(b) Going to the internet or an electronics store and buying a new connector and some cable to solder up a new one, or
(c) Avoid soldering by buying an adapter on the net that has screw terminals, like this:
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/images/products/display/rp7896.jpg

I'll confirm the exact sizes of everything when I get a chance.

Although the wiki talks about screw terminals too, it may be of help, especially with the wall power wiring.
http://www.soliwiki.com/Upgrade_The_Power_Supply

yea i just tore up an extra cable i had that connects to the printer inside there is a blue cable and just a bare braded copper cable i gather blue goes to positive and the bare cable goes to negative

8

Re: New heating bed problems !

Yup. Checked mine last night, +12V (+V on your new PSU) to the center and GND (-V on your new PSU) to the barrel.
Yellow tip means it's an EIAJ connector, so the generic 5.5mm barrel connectors may not sit nicely. I would highly recommend reusing the existing cable and connector as zipperboy has done, unless you can ensure an exact match.
The bare copper inside the cable is normally -ve and the insulated cable (whatever colour) +ve, but again make sure you confirm before plugging it back in!

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/EIAJconnector2_edit.jpg/800px-EIAJconnector2_edit.jpg

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

9

Re: New heating bed problems !

grob wrote:

Yup. Checked mine last night, +12V (+V on your new PSU) to the center and GND (-V on your new PSU) to the barrel.
Yellow tip means it's an EIAJ connector, so the generic 5.5mm barrel connectors may not sit nicely. I would highly recommend reusing the existing cable and connector as zipperboy has done, unless you can ensure an exact match.
The bare copper inside the cable is normally -ve and the insulated cable (whatever colour) +ve, but again make sure you confirm before plugging it back in!

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/EIAJconnector2_edit.jpg/800px-EIAJconnector2_edit.jpg

ok  so i hooked up the 3 prong plug to the supply and the barrel connector cable, the light is green on the power supply but when i plug it into the printer the power supply shuts off ? did i wire something wrong or do i need to give it more voltage?

10

Re: New heating bed problems !

That sounds concerning - overload/short protection. Did you confirm that the positive is connected to the center of the barrel connector and the negative on the outside of the barrel before plugging it in?

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

11

Re: New heating bed problems !

grob wrote:

That sounds concerning - overload/short protection. Did you confirm that the positive is connected to the center of the barrel connector and the negative on the outside of the barrel before plugging it in?

i think i fried my printers board xD

12

Re: New heating bed problems !

My condolences... *sigh* I feel partly responsible here, even though I did ask you to:

I wrote:

...make sure you confirm before plugging it back in!

I too get excited and jump straight in sometimes; I have a cooked raspberry pi on my pinboard glaring at me with a note underneath saying "measure twice, plug once" for this very reason! (he suffered 12V instead of 5V, it was really quite embarrassing)

If you haven't got a multimeter, you need one. They're awesome, and not expensive. Nearly any one will do. Borrow one from a friend, local electronics shop, sometimes even the hardware store. Failing that eBay has millions. Probably quite literally.

Armed with that, check what's gone on in that cable, and if the voltage is indeed back-to-front, then yeah, you're pretty much definitely going to need a new board... SD will sell you a stock one, or post on this forum to see if anyone wants rid of theirs - a few people have changed to other boards, and might have a functional one gathering dust... Worth a shot I suppose!

Please don't be disheartened, you win some and you lose some. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

13

Re: New heating bed problems !

grob wrote:

My condolences... *sigh* I feel partly responsible here, even though I did ask you to:

I wrote:

...make sure you confirm before plugging it back in!

I too get excited and jump straight in sometimes; I have a cooked raspberry pi on my pinboard glaring at me with a note underneath saying "measure twice, plug once" for this very reason! (he suffered 12V instead of 5V, it was really quite embarrassing)

If you haven't got a multimeter, you need one. They're awesome, and not expensive. Nearly any one will do. Borrow one from a friend, local electronics shop, sometimes even the hardware store. Failing that eBay has millions. Probably quite literally.

Armed with that, check what's gone on in that cable, and if the voltage is indeed back-to-front, then yeah, you're pretty much definitely going to need a new board... SD will sell you a stock one, or post on this forum to see if anyone wants rid of theirs - a few people have changed to other boards, and might have a functional one gathering dust... Worth a shot I suppose!

Please don't be disheartened, you win some and you lose some. smile

welp i was dumb lol everything is powered up now except my x axis isnt moving at all