1 Topic by Hyper_Cube

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Topic: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

I've been trying to print this spool mount (not allowed to post url) for the last three days and have been having the same two issues. Either I get a cold clog sometime after the 9th layer.. or the print starts coming off the bed. I am using a 1/8" thick glass bed with Super Extra Hold Aquanet for adhesion.

I have calibrated my Z, the prints look nice until they fail. My extruder is set to 210 and my bed to 110. I've slowed my speed down to 30mm/s.

I am using Filabot 1.75mm ABS filament and have measured it to more like 1.375mm and changed the appropriate perimeters.

I have printed two successful smaller parts but have almost gone through a pound of filament trying to get this piece to print correctly. I have also made a temporary enclosure out of cardboard to help with any drafts I may be experiencing.

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2 Reply by wardjr (edited by wardjr 2014-01-05 21:00:32)

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

I think you would have better results with rectilinear infill at about .2-.4. 
That should help with the warping some.  I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "cold clog"?
With larger prints it really helps if everything is enclosed and the temp inside is stable.  Just let the bed warm things up inside for a while.  As the ABS cools it is shrinking... the more ABS (infill) the more shrinkage.

Edit:  It is tough to tell from the pictures but I think you could reduce your perimeters also.
It is just my opinion but I think you should get rid of the clips holding your glass on.  They can warp the glass more than you would think.  Just spray the underside of your glass with hairspray and it should stick plenty good.  At least it does with the kapton still on the bed.

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3 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

wardjr wrote:

I think you would have better results with rectilinear infill at about .2-.4. 
That should help with the warping some.  I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "cold clog"?
With larger prints it really helps if everything is enclosed and the temp inside is stable.  Just let the bed warm things up inside for a while.  As the ABS cools it is shrinking... the more ABS (infill) the more shrinkage.

I got the cold/hot clog terminology from the Solidoodle website.

Cold Clog: This is where the Solidoodle filament has become lodged in the PEEK barrel. This usually happens when a bit of filament has sheared off before extrusion. Because of this, it is keeping further filament from advancing through the tube. Since no heat is present in this part of the Solidoodle, the filament cannot melt.

Hot Clog: The hot clog involves filament forming a hard ball in the nozzle. It has been hypothesized that this happens when the filament burns inside the nozzle. The burned filament would be far harder than filament normally is, and much harder to melt through.

I will try your suggestion once this current print is finished and report back. Thanks for the advice.

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4 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Hyper_Cube wrote:
wardjr wrote:

I think you would have better results with rectilinear infill at about .2-.4. 
That should help with the warping some.  I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "cold clog"?
With larger prints it really helps if everything is enclosed and the temp inside is stable.  Just let the bed warm things up inside for a while.  As the ABS cools it is shrinking... the more ABS (infill) the more shrinkage.

I got the cold/hot clog terminology from the Solidoodle website.

Cold Clog: This is where the Solidoodle filament has become lodged in the PEEK barrel. This usually happens when a bit of filament has sheared off before extrusion. Because of this, it is keeping further filament from advancing through the tube. Since no heat is present in this part of the Solidoodle, the filament cannot melt.

Hot Clog: The hot clog involves filament forming a hard ball in the nozzle. It has been hypothesized that this happens when the filament burns inside the nozzle. The burned filament would be far harder than filament normally is, and much harder to melt through.

I will try your suggestion once this current print is finished and report back. Thanks for the advice.

So what is causing your cold clog?  Is your filament stripping in the drive gear causing shavings to fall into the PEEK?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

5 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

wardjr wrote:

So what is causing your cold clog?  Is your filament stripping in the drive gear causing shavings to fall into the PEEK?

Not sure, what is happening is that somewhere later in the print the gears start to skip like it is trying to push the filament through but can't.. then it starts wrapping around the gear and coming out the front.

My theory is inconsistency with the diameter of the filament.. but I can't be certain. I'll take an image of that when it happens again.

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6 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Hyper_Cube wrote:

I am using Filabot 1.75mm ABS filament and have measured it to more like 1.375mm

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

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7 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

elmoret wrote:

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

I'm not printing with filament made at my house. I ordered filament directly from Filabot but alas I can't find any information on their process other than they use their "Core" extruder. Can you point me in the direction of some quality ABS and PLA to play around with?

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8 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

elmoret wrote:
Hyper_Cube wrote:

I am using Filabot 1.75mm ABS filament and have measured it to more like 1.375mm

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
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Thanks to all for your contributions

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9 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

wardjr wrote:

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

I do not.. I have maybe 2 ft. left of the sample that Solidoodle sent to me. Not enough to run it to the point where I have been getting backed up. I'll order some though.

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10 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Hyper_Cube wrote:
wardjr wrote:

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

I do not.. I have maybe 2 ft. left of the sample that Solidoodle sent to me. Not enough to run it to the point where I have been getting backed up. I'll order some though.

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
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Thanks to all for your contributions

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11 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

wardjr wrote:

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

I ended up buying a spool of SainSmart.. They had a ton of reviews to pour through on Amazon whereas Octave only had a few... and Prime shipping. Pretty much giving up on printing until that comes and I'll let you know how things go.

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12 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Hyper_Cube wrote:
wardjr wrote:

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

I ended up buying a spool of SainSmart.. They had a ton of reviews to pour through on Amazon whereas Octave only had a few... and Prime shipping. Pretty much giving up on printing until that comes and I'll let you know how things go.

SainSmart is decent stuff.
Sometimes it's best to step back and re-approach, your smart to wait for your new filament to arrive.

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3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
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Thanks to all for your contributions

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13 Reply by elmoret (edited by elmoret 2014-01-06 03:08:39)

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Hyper_Cube wrote:
elmoret wrote:

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

I'm not printing with filament made at my house. I ordered filament directly from Filabot but alas I can't find any information on their process other than they use their "Core" extruder. Can you point me in the direction of some quality ABS and PLA to play around with?

Problem is you may now have a clog to troubleshoot as well, due to contaminants.

EDIT: Looks like Filabot is sold out now. I wonder if they got complaints?

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14 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Well.. I could clean out the hot end with some Acetone before I try the new filament. I'm also thinking about buying a E3D and another extruder but I'd like to troubleshoot this before I do that.

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15 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

Order the E3D now you'll never look at that stock hot end again.  I came across my stock hot end the other day and I just giggled. big_smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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16 Reply by Hyper_Cube

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

wardjr wrote:

Order the E3D now you'll never look at that stock hot end again.  I came across my stock hot end the other day and I just giggled. big_smile


Can you link me to a guide to replacing my hot end?? Should I print out or purchase a different extruder (I was thinking about the Bulldog.. but not sure)? Any advice is appreciated.

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17 Reply by RavensCrest

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Re: Warping and Cold Clog Issues

hey HyperCube from that pictures I can see the over extruded bumps on your brim. and that brim is huge..

The only thing is.. i think your glass is too clean... you might need more hair spray...
plus when i was still using glass bed. I scratch the glass surface a little with sand paper. it helps adhesive to certain extend...

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