The only thing is.. i think your glass is too clean... you might need more hair spray...
plus when i was still using glass bed. I scratch the glass surface a little with sand paper. it helps adhesive to certain extend...

Order the E3D now you'll never look at that stock hot end again.  I came across my stock hot end the other day and I just giggled.

Can you link me to a guide to replacing my hot end?? Should I print out or purchase a different extruder (I was thinking about the Bulldog.. but not sure)? Any advice is appreciated.

elmoret wrote:

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

I'm not printing with filament made at my house. I ordered filament directly from Filabot but alas I can't find any information on their process other than they use their "Core" extruder. Can you point me in the direction of some quality ABS and PLA to play around with?

Problem is you may now have a clog to troubleshoot as well, due to contaminants.

EDIT: Looks like Filabot is sold out now. I wonder if they got complaints?

wardjr wrote:

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

I ended up buying a spool of SainSmart.. They had a ton of reviews to pour through on Amazon whereas Octave only had a few... and Prime shipping. Pretty much giving up on printing until that comes and I'll let you know how things go.

SainSmart is decent stuff.
Sometimes it's best to step back and re-approach, your smart to wait for your new filament to arrive.

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

I ended up buying a spool of SainSmart.. They had a ton of reviews to pour through on Amazon whereas Octave only had a few... and Prime shipping. Pretty much giving up on printing until that comes and I'll let you know how things go.

wardjr wrote:

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

I do not.. I have maybe 2 ft. left of the sample that Solidoodle sent to me. Not enough to run it to the point where I have been getting backed up. I'll order some though.

I have had pretty fair results with OCTAVE except for their black.

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

I do not.. I have maybe 2 ft. left of the sample that Solidoodle sent to me. Not enough to run it to the point where I have been getting backed up. I'll order some though.

Hyper_Cube wrote:

I am using Filabot 1.75mm ABS filament and have measured it to more like 1.375mm

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

+1
I guess I missed that number on the first read through.
Do you have some other filament you can try?

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

I'm not printing with filament made at my house. I ordered filament directly from Filabot but alas I can't find any information on their process other than they use their "Core" extruder. Can you point me in the direction of some quality ABS and PLA to play around with?

I am using Filabot 1.75mm ABS filament and have measured it to more like 1.375mm

This is absolutely atrocious and not usable. I would not recommend learning to print on homemade filament - and that's coming from a guy that has used over 60kg of homemade filament (on a Filastruder). To my knowledge, Filabot doesn't use melt filtering, so there could be contaminants also - on top of the horrible diameter control.

Remove as many variables as possible while learning.

So what is causing your cold clog?  Is your filament stripping in the drive gear causing shavings to fall into the PEEK?

Not sure, what is happening is that somewhere later in the print the gears start to skip like it is trying to push the filament through but can't.. then it starts wrapping around the gear and coming out the front.

My theory is inconsistency with the diameter of the filament.. but I can't be certain. I'll take an image of that when it happens again.

wardjr wrote:

I think you would have better results with rectilinear infill at about .2-.4. 
That should help with the warping some.  I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "cold clog"?
With larger prints it really helps if everything is enclosed and the temp inside is stable.  Just let the bed warm things up inside for a while.  As the ABS cools it is shrinking... the more ABS (infill) the more shrinkage.

I got the cold/hot clog terminology from the Solidoodle website.

Cold Clog: This is where the Solidoodle filament has become lodged in the PEEK barrel. This usually happens when a bit of filament has sheared off before extrusion. Because of this, it is keeping further filament from advancing through the tube. Since no heat is present in this part of the Solidoodle, the filament cannot melt.

Hot Clog: The hot clog involves filament forming a hard ball in the nozzle. It has been hypothesized that this happens when the filament burns inside the nozzle. The burned filament would be far harder than filament normally is, and much harder to melt through.

I will try your suggestion once this current print is finished and report back. Thanks for the advice.

So what is causing your cold clog?  Is your filament stripping in the drive gear causing shavings to fall into the PEEK?

I think you would have better results with rectilinear infill at about .2-.4. 
That should help with the warping some.  I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "cold clog"?
With larger prints it really helps if everything is enclosed and the temp inside is stable.  Just let the bed warm things up inside for a while.  As the ABS cools it is shrinking... the more ABS (infill) the more shrinkage.

I got the cold/hot clog terminology from the Solidoodle website.

Cold Clog: This is where the Solidoodle filament has become lodged in the PEEK barrel. This usually happens when a bit of filament has sheared off before extrusion. Because of this, it is keeping further filament from advancing through the tube. Since no heat is present in this part of the Solidoodle, the filament cannot melt.

Hot Clog: The hot clog involves filament forming a hard ball in the nozzle. It has been hypothesized that this happens when the filament burns inside the nozzle. The burned filament would be far harder than filament normally is, and much harder to melt through.

I will try your suggestion once this current print is finished and report back. Thanks for the advice.