My quest to build a solidoodle 3 "airtight" Case! (Page 1 of 2)

HAHAHA! Thanks!

Pretty sure youre going to need to upgrade the power supply.
I went with
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EI … &psc=1
I have it and the Qu-Bd heater ready to go to use with lawsy bed adaptor for it, just haven't gotten to it yet.

I already have the 40mm so I am stuck with that.

Will the upgraded power supply be a concern for the 12v fans. Will it not burn them out at higher than rated amps or do they only use the needed power to run from the power supply.

What power supply do you recommend.

I am going to cut wood withing the hour! Pics will be taken.

I prefer the simpler functional description, which suffices for conversation and explanation but is technically not the full picture... which is:

"Voltage is supplied, Current is drawn".

Therefore, the voltage must always match or be concious of 'over supply'. Current is drawn 'as required', and therefore, merly needs to be higher than the total sum of requirements. (i.e, a 10A PSU allows a draw of 1A, but a 10A PSU will not allow draw of 20A) .... Back to the water analogy, the other way to think of it is, Voltage is the Speed of the water, and Current is the relative pressure.

Anyway, we digress

As for the PSU - there is plenty of threads on what to use. The cheap end is the Dell Server 500W+ supplies for ~$12 on ebay, or you can get a 25A 'brick' from MeanWell that looks identical to the SD OEM PSU for ~$50. Depends on what you want to spend....

Woodworking makes me happy.

Hows this? http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Univer … wer+supply

Or should  I go for this http://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-Switchin … ll+12+Volt

Will it get to hot being in the enclosure?

Purchasing the meanwell when I pick out some LED's

yeah, they'll perform the function as described fine

Be careful though, they do draw a reasonable amount of current.. from memory, it was about 1.5A a meter... (~3 foot)

Worst case, you run those leds from the existing SD power supply... if you have more than a couple of meters...

(just being concious here of say ~11A for heated bed, ~4.5A for motors, ~2A for Hotend, then all the fans you want to run (say ~1A +/- depending on those 120mm's (they can be 400ma+ themselves)..)

The meanwell can do all the above, but then you don't have a heap of room spare (I wouldn't want to run it constantly at say more than 22A to ensure prolonged life...)

Consider splitting fans and lights onto the old SD supply, keep the meanwell clean for the printer itself if you have lots of feet of LEDs

I guess it makes it easier. Although it doesn't need to be that beefy on the individual outputs, as they are all going to be 500ma or less... but you still will want to use 16-18Gauge wire to it to be sure.

I personally do what I describe (power fans+leds from PSU directly) just using a small 'header strip' to distribute the power to about 8-10 simple 2 pin PCB headers on a small 'vero strip' board from RadioShack if that gives you any context. This is true for a short 500ma LED run though - to run more than a few feet of LED, those WILL want decent wire (say 18-20gauge at least).

If you look in my RAMPS how-to you'll see it there next to the RAMPS board

yup.

I tend to have actually used the male version of your last link, similar to http://www.amazon.com/2-45mm-Pitch-Posi … pd_cp_hi_3 because 95% of my fans and leds have female connectors already onthem in .1" pitch...

But in your case, I would guess that the screw terminals would be the best way all round for all connections - probably easiest way to deal with incoming power and the 120mm fans and led's etc... buy a 10 or 20 pack and that should sort you.

and then yes, wire... 16-18 (16 is needed for a single run, if you do multiple runs then 18 is fine) for the PSU->'stuff'

And then 18-20 for the LEDS
and everything else (fans et al) is fine 22-24 even.

Hmm. I think I am going to look into finding a pre built Terminal Bus Block.

I have some time to decide.