1 Topic by BrandonL.

  • BrandonL.
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Topic: Glass Plate and Slic3r Problems

Hi Everyone! I'm an architecture student and I've printed a few prints with the Solidoodle 3 already. However, I'm still a newbie to the 3D printing technology.
I have a few questions regarding on the glass plates and the Slic3r.

My heatbed is just like everyone else. Although the ABS plastic sticks to the bed, the corners of my prints would warp up gradually. I've tried both hairspray and paper spray glue and it still doesn't work. Therefore, I'm thinking getting either a tile or a glass plate.

Where do you guys buy the glass plate or tiles? and what kinds of thickness should I get? If I switch to the glass plate, is there still the same kind of warping situation? If I got the glass plate, How should I setup the Z-offset in order not to let the extruder crashes with the plate?

On the other hand, whenever I tried to slice objects with Slic3r, the slices would come up weird. Like there's some inconsistent floating pieces and/or the sliced geometry is not the same as the geometries before slicing.
I'm wondering does this happen to everyone? is there a way to resolve the problem?

Thanks in advance for the help!:)

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2 Reply by Gomisan

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Re: Glass Plate and Slic3r Problems

In reverse order...

What do you use to model you objects? If you use a 3D program without good solid support you may want to use Netfabb cloud to fix up errors in the STL files before slicing.

as for the lifting problem... a glass plate (borosilicate) is a great easy mod and will help to some extent. There's another thread discussing the issue of warping/curling at the moment... http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4247/ext … ing-issue/

and there's plenty of info on glass plates vs ceramic etc. I like glass as with the standard heater it heats up pretty quickly and it's VERY flat.

Gomisan's Website

3 Reply by chuddly

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Re: Glass Plate and Slic3r Problems

your slicer doesnt care about the glass bed in the least.  you adjust your Z stop screw to set the height of the new printing level with the glass installed.  You may want to think about an enclosure to help with the warping also. Plenty of threads about it but the simple answer is get some glass (I got mine at Lowes but any hardware store will have it) and adjust your Z stop screw (if its really thick glass you may need to print a lowered Z stop screw mount thats available on thingiverse) and your all set.....well dont forget the hair spray.

4 Reply by BrandonL.

  • BrandonL.
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Re: Glass Plate and Slic3r Problems

chuddly wrote:

your slicer doesnt care about the glass bed in the least.  you adjust your Z stop screw to set the height of the new printing level with the glass installed.  You may want to think about an enclosure to help with the warping also. Plenty of threads about it but the simple answer is get some glass (I got mine at Lowes but any hardware store will have it) and adjust your Z stop screw (if its really thick glass you may need to print a lowered Z stop screw mount thats available on thingiverse) and your all set.....well dont forget the hair spray.

Okay, I'm gonna give it a try. one stupid question, after adding a glass plate, will it affect the z extrudable distance? Is the Z stop that you are talking about the same with the Z tab?

5 Reply by COASTER19 (edited by COASTER19 2013-10-16 23:46:17)

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Re: Glass Plate and Slic3r Problems

It will take about 3mm off the z axis of your print area.  I believe that both the z-stop and the z-tab are the same thing (I attached a photo of a modified one (the original is black and shorter)).

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