To sum up, key things to know about the E3D modification (Page 2 of 4)

You'll need to change thermistor type to 1 even if using the stock SD thermistor,  as type 6 only has data to 265oC...

The type 1 is the same as type 6 in terms of "beta value", but type 1 has a full table.. Not the butchered version used in type 6.

If you are assembling the E3D per the directions then you better be going over 265C. A vital part of the directions include a 300C heat soak and tightening.

Correction from earlier today having just looked at the source code:
Its actually 250°C for Type 6.
Its 300°C for Type 1.

Both of them will interpolate higher temperatures - so yes the Temp could report 'as' 350°C .. but the further from that actual top temp you are, the less and less the stated temp is a reflection of reality.

So you can set the temp to 300°C and yes the extruder will happily 'report' that its 300°C, but its *actual* temperature will be quite different to reality...

Question - Why use the existing SD Thermistor anyway ? to do so, you have to dismantle your existing nozzle partially.. Conversely, its pretty easy to crimp another connector onto a pair of wires and run them to the extruder instead - everyone already has to deal with the polarized fan connector, so an extra pair of non-polarised wires should be no sweat. Thermistors also fail - so you'll need to deal at some point with it...

This leaves you an entire spare extruder 'ready to go' ..

Anyway - just a question to those who are doing it this way

Final comment (lets leave discussion here and just make it a Wiki page ) -
If you are doing all the above already - Why bother sticking with the 'stock' connectors anyway... Just throw on JST connectors ala what lawsy did...  This way you have cheap, readily available connectors you could put on both the old extruder, the E3D and any other J-Heads you pick-up along the way...  To preserve the equivalent of the 'color coding' to allow easy differentiation of which wires do what - Simply use reversed genders between the two sets - Use Male on the SD side for Extruder, and Female on the SD for Thermistor...

Anyway - just my comments - the above methods keep both a 'spare' hotend that works quite fine with the Type 1 table so besides Max_Temp and remembering the need to set different tempreatures in RH still! - Gives you the ability to just swap hotends as needed/required/desired.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4452

The key fact that needs to change is using type 1 regardless of which thermistor is used. I'm just telling you how the firmware tables are set..

Thermistortables.h

#if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 1) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 1)  || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 1) || (THERMISTORBED == 1)
const short temptable_1[][2] PROGMEM = {
{       23*OVERSAMPLENR ,       300     },
{       25*OVERSAMPLENR ,       295     },

#if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 6) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 6) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 6) || (THERMISTORBED == 6) // 100k Epcos thermistor
const short temptable_6[][2] PROGMEM = {
   {1*OVERSAMPLENR, 350},
   {28*OVERSAMPLENR, 250}, //top rating 250C

(Note - yes it has a pointless '350' entry on type 6 - that is so massively interpolated from 250 (the actual table top) it may as well not be there )

Configuration.h

// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)

(Note the comment 'not as accurate as table 1'.... theres a reason for that as shown above But it is finer grained in the 'standard' temp ranges the SD operates at (190-200) so hence why its used by default for Solidoodle's Firmware)

As for the suggestion for the want of two wires to change the thermistor instead of cannibalising the old hot end and rendering it unserviceable until 'repaired' is entirely your own choice.. I was simply pointing out the logic of not doing that.

Solidoodle confirmed they've cancelled my order for a new stock extruder from two weeks ago.  Once the refund shows in PayPal I'll go ahead with the E3D order.  Wheee!

If you want to write up a bit for me to insert, I'll be happy to.  Maybe I'll run into that same problem when I get to that point!  (Alternately, you might want to send your input to the wiki maintainers -- might as well have that page be right, and keep pointing to it.)

Also, Heartlander, please take notes about any bits of this you can suggest improvements for, or post any pictures you took of your process so I can include them if they help make it more clear.

I've done a few rewrites to reflect adrian's comments, but still left a bit of red text in there awaiting Ian's chance to answer adrian's thoughts about changing the thermistor table.  I also did some clarifying about the pros and cons about cannibalizing the connectors and thermistor versus keeping them to be a backup, since that had gotten spread out over a bunch of separate points.

For my own purposes, I actually have a spare set of connectors from my original Solidoodle extruder, which got completely fubared with PLA, but which I cleverly saved in case I needed parts from it one day.  So whether I use the Solidoodle thermistor or not, I will probably wire my E3D with the same red/blue connectors so it and my current extruder can be swapped easily.

I didn't know what the difference between tables 6 and 1 were, just that one was supposedly better.  Using the stock thermistor is more a matter of convenience so you don't have to mess with spicing the wires, adding connectors, insulating the legs, etc.  In general, I hate fiddling with thermistors (Thermistors! Why did it have to be thermistors?).

Looks good BUT just remember with E3D you use "proper"  ABS temps. You quoted 210, which on a Solidoodle nozzle is correct,  but that temp on an E3d is actually 240...the thermistor is right next to the melt zone so no need to -30o like on the SD nozzle.

So the 250 accuracy limit of type 6 would remain a genuine concern still as it's only got 10o left before it's inaccurate

It was increase, not reduce.  I've updated the instructions accordingly.  I think I'll have to update them later to find the seventy-three different places the temperatures are hidden again and record them all.

Are there any other changes in how you print after the E3D is installed?

I still need to change nozzle size to .4 and thermistor type to 1. Which files are those settings in, I can't find them?

I made the change to configuration.h to make the max temp 350. I compiled it. When I look at the folder, only configuration.h shows a change on the date time stamp, is that correct?

I am getting confused now on which instructions to follow. After the nozzle and thermistor type changes am I ready to upload the firmware with the HID bootloader?

If so, is this next part correct?:

- Download Lincomatic's BootloaderHID.zip and extract the files.
- Move the firmware.cpp.hex file from the previous section into the BootloaderHID folder.
 
(I cannot find the firmware.cpp.hex file. Where, oh where, could it be?)

- Connect your motherboard to your PC via USB. Add a jumper to the BOOT pins and press the RESET button to reset into bootloader mode. If you do not have a jumper, just short the pins together and press reset.

- Open a command prompt window. Navigate to BootloaderHID folder in the command promt window and type the following command, substituting your file in for "firmware.cpp.hex":
hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v firmware.cpp.hex

Your firmware should upload to your motherboard very quickly before resetting.

Holy cow! I think... I think it's printing! It is! It is printing! IT'S ALIVE!!!!

Four, actually.  Though two of them are very close to one another, which makes the second one extra-easy to miss, particularly as you have to scroll to find it.

I've updated the write-up to reflect all four temperature settings to change, as well as the nozzle diameter, though I'm not sure that the nozzle diameter doesn't also have to be changed somewhere other than Slic3r -> Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Size.