1 (edited by MolecularConcept 2013-08-06 03:09:02)

Topic: Really BAD owl

so I tried to print an owl form thingiverse and it didn't come out so well

.3mm layer height,4 perimeters, perimeter speed 35 mm along small perimeters. sliced with slic3r

whats wrong here ?

other prints are okay
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?actio … mp;preview

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2

Re: Really BAD owl

Well I gotta say I have never seen the owl look like that.....


Is that the same slicer profile as your other print ?

3 (edited by MolecularConcept 2013-08-06 06:42:06)

Re: Really BAD owl

yep i tried to print the yoda lite to at 40% scale.  i have a feeling its to fast and theres something else going on too i dont know what tho


UPDATE: my Z ofset was way off. brought it up re leveled gonna try the owl again

4

Re: Really BAD owl

much better still not perfect though what tweeks do I need to make ?

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5

Re: Really BAD owl

What speed are you running that at? It would help to slow it down a little bit. Also, I know that you have some fairly severe banding. --> http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3434/torture-test-print/

I think the combination of the 2 is what you are seeing here

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

6

Re: Really BAD owl

is the banding something i should bring to solidoodles attention? or is that pretty much a users problem? ive been planning to do either a ball screw or the fine threaded rod mod  so i guess just say f-it and bring on the mod

7

Re: Really BAD owl

Honestly, even if they replace it, it will only be marginally better.  http://www.soliforum.com/post/31960/#p31960

They acknowledge that there are several issues causing banding. I think you best bet is to pick a fix from the forums and run with it. I have had wonderful success with my slop nut design using M5 threaded rod. I am sure M3 works well also.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

8

Re: Really BAD owl

It's a do it yourself mod, the community solutions are giving better results than the SD solution at the moment.  Try the slop nut solution first, it is simple and effective.  Don't chase perfection if you don't need it.  I have mine stock and it's perfectly fine for my use so I haven't done a thing to it.

9

Re: Really BAD owl

installes a well nut trying to see if there was any difference in my prints...

the owl on the left is befor the well nut the owl on the right is after

little more consistent but still little horizontal gaps on my perimeters

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10

Re: Really BAD owl

here we go this is re along the lines of what im expecting, much beter layers no gaps. .1 , 20% fill, print failed with an hour left to go. damnit.

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