Curling of Objects at Base

Also what did you set the bed temp?

I keep the bed at 105 now, and how do I enclose the printer? I didn't get the closed in option, and what difference does that tend to make? There isn't much of a breeze here. lol.

The cheap way is use cardboard and tape it to all open areas, with a cut out with tape over so you can see the print actually happen.  Most of the people here built their own enclosure, especially if they have an SD3 since not offered.  You can go to your local hardware store and get some lexan (polycarbonate sheet), cut and attach to the outer frame of the printer.

glass and hairspray seem distribute the heat best, if needed you can upgrade the bed heater like most us here who longer have problems of long print cover warps I know I did..  Do you have the new heater pad or the old resistor?

There is a thread called "silicon heating pad" or  nichrome wire heated bed (depending on your skill level or desire to hack) something like that were we talk about that subject in detail.  The white stuff is just header insulation, is there a bump in the middle or does the insulation lie down flat?, that will indicate which type of heater they used...(they said they are using the pad heater's now).  If you discover a pad heater (no bump), make sure the firmware actually has PID auto-tune un-commented correctly in firmware and get some binder clips, glass, and hairspray.  I personally haven't seen what size or type of pad heater they have gone with (would be interesting to see if you could get some pictures), but I would assume it sufficient due to the constant complaints they received from that one issue alone.  You can easily check the voltages of the HB p/o as well (be careful not to short anything out) and also at the connections near the element to insure that you a adequate amount of power to that bed. (I use a separate ATX power supply just for the bed it's driven by a SSR [solid state relay]) and controlled directly though by HB P/O.

What glass adjustment is there? Just like a piece of window glass or something on the metal heating platform? And if so how do I keep it from moving and safely recalibrating the extruder level?

Wouldn't hair spray be bad for the environment? Shouldn't hand sanitizer be adequite? And as for Polycarbontate sheet is that stuff cheap? And would i cover only the 3 sides, but not the top at all for the sake of the filament feeding in? I'd like something that isn't at all flamable so I can safely leave the house without starting a fire in the case of 8 hour print jobs.

Anyone still reading this thread?

I just wanted to bump this thread because I have been having significant issues with curling as well.  I already have the bed leveled, with glass+hairspray, and a good enclosure with foam weather strip seals.  One particularly troublesome print is Emmett's Gear Bearing (I mentioned this in a different thread as well, but it is more relevant here). 

When printing it, I get curling of at least 1mm on the flanges of the gears, making it impossible to get a good sidewall quality. 

I am trying to think of ways to improve this.  Would a fan make a difference?  I am waiting for some eBay fans to arrive, and in the meantime I am just using "dummy" prints (small tall parts) to idle the extruder while the gear cools in between layers.  I suppose a strong fan might help because it would freeze the layer before it is allowed to deform and relieve thermal stress.

The pictures are attached.  The print was stopped midway through just to show the effect of the curling.