Is one side curling worse than the other?  Mine curls horribly on the right.

Hmm, that is interesting that yours curls on one side.  Mine curls evenly everywhere though.  It is conceivable that in your case, some uneven heating could contribute to it.

I'm printing with the bed at 95, on a glass plate, with hairspray, the bed is leveled (with a feeler gage), and ive got a simple plexiglass case around my sd3.

Could the heated bed be messed up?

 

When printing it, I get curling of at least 1mm on the flanges of the gears, making it impossible to get a good sidewall quality.

pictures?

When printing it, I get curling of at least 1mm on the flanges of the gears, making it impossible to get a good sidewall quality. 

I am trying to think of ways to improve this.  Would a fan make a difference?  I am waiting for some eBay fans to arrive, and in the meantime I am just using "dummy" prints (small tall parts) to idle the extruder while the gear cools in between layers.  I suppose a strong fan might help because it would freeze the layer before it is allowed to deform and relieve thermal stress.

Also with each different object a different bubble pattern appears with the Kaplan tape that I need to reapply the tape to iron them out.

And for whatever reason with the "Flying Toasters" print I found whether or not I click the "support material" check box it seems to print just about the same way.

glass and hairspray seem distribute the heat best, if needed you can upgrade the bed heater like most us here who longer have problems of long print cover warps I know I did..  Do you have the new heater pad or the old resistor?

What glass adjustment is there? Just like a piece of window glass or something on the metal heating platform? And if so how do I keep it from moving and safely recalibrating the extruder level?

Wouldn't hair spray be bad for the environment? Shouldn't hand sanitizer be adequite? And as for Polycarbontate sheet is that stuff cheap? And would i cover only the 3 sides, but not the top at all for the sake of the filament feeding in? I'd like something that isn't at all flamable so I can safely leave the house without starting a fire in the case of 8 hour print jobs.

I would like to machine a new alumin bed like we do here for thermoformers at my work.

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=CIR_12

Thanks

Front to back definitely was harder then side to side. More of a hump in the middle and falls off at the edges. What I did was use a piece of photo paper about .2mm thick and leveled at the screws. with a slight nudge the paper goes under at each point and then just clears the middle of the bed without touching. The hump, so I would say about 0.15mm higher.

Then I backed off the zstop an 1/8 turn, covered one side (facing the fan) of my SD and had this

going through this process again and getting repeatable results (even better) then last week is reassuring to me.

I think this looks pretty good for sticking, no curling and even flow. This is at .3mm layer height

cmetzel wrote:

Enclose build environment, set bed to 95C or higher. 

I would recommend doing the glass bed mod and using hairspray.  After I switched and enclosed my printer I get little to no warping at all.

I keep the bed at 105 now, and how do I enclose the printer? I didn't get the closed in option, and what difference does that tend to make? There isn't much of a breeze here. lol.

The cheap way is use cardboard and tape it to all open areas, with a cut out with tape over so you can see the print actually happen.  Most of the people here built their own enclosure, especially if they have an SD3 since not offered.  You can go to your local hardware store and get some lexan (polycarbonate sheet), cut and attach to the outer frame of the printer.