Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 WiFi Build (Page 10 of 13)

One word “Anchor”. Get one set up in your start code. Instead of placing it on the glass.  Have it dump 20mm just off the edge of your build plate.  Do this for both nozzles.  Then as it moves in to print.  The string will get cut off by the edge of the build plate.

I have mine set so it sets the Z height before it moves to print position so it scrapes the drip off on the edge of the glass as it moves in.

So now print another cube and see if it looks better. If it does then let it finish and measure it. .

Then you can go here to use the data and get them tuned in.

http://rigidtalk.com/wiki/index.php?tit … _XYZ_Steps

FYI your Z is going to have the same issue.

I know you said get rid of the raft I forgot to. I honestly don’t think I’ll be able to get first later down without some type of pre nozzle line. What should I change for the object you see.. looks like it’s under extruding to me but I’m not sure.. like I said I don’t have much printing experience.

What is the gap between the bed and the nozzle supposed to be? .23mm?

Tried this before you responded.. all I did was increase my flow rate from 40 to 100. Looks pretty good! What do you think needs tweaked after looking at this print? I will turn down temp and I will try the skirt.

Hey I’ll help when you do yours! I appreciate all the effort you have put into helping me, it’s helped so much and I can’t believe I’m finally printing again! Thank you!

What is the gap between bed and nozzle supposed to be?
All I have is printer paper do I fold that in half?

Now if I turn off the raft will it automatically run the skirt no matter what? As long as the values are entered?

So what would you recommend for me on my machine for good looking finish with PETG.

The power supply is probably too weak as we discussed before.

Not looking too bad. Looks like your print is stopping at the end though and leaving the hotend in contact with the object. It looks like a melted spot in the bottom left. If so you need to add the lines I posted in my END gcode to yours. That way it will move the bed down to 150 and move the x and y home.

And this is my END Gcode:

M104 S0 ; turn off hotend
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G28 X Y ; home X and Y axes
G1 Z150 F1000 ; move Z to 150
M84 ; disable motors

Fingers look better to.

Never have tried it yet. I am in the process of replacing the nozzles, heatblocks, and feed throats on both extruders. One is totally clogged anyways. I plan to keep one dedicated to PETG and the other will be for other materials. Probaly will do this at the same time I convert the the Azteeg X5 GT.

The biggest issue is when you go to a high temp material it is very hard to get all the material out of the extruder if you move to a lower temp and it will cause clogging due to the higher temp material not melting fully at the lower temps.

I try to purge all the higher temp by running several meters of the lower temp stuff at the higher temp but I usually have little success.

It is the same formula as you used for the X and Y.

I'm not sure what formula you are using. But there is a formula that allows you to look at the firmware and get the steps per mm there. Then you take the size you are actually getting and do the fuzzy math and it tells you the value that steps per mm need to be changed to. Just keep repeating till you get the precision you want.

This should be based on the size of your finished cube and nothing else.

Based on your image I see a few things. You are over extruding some. Back your flow rate down to 98 or so. PETG likes to be slightly under extruded.

The artifact you see to the right of the Y is called ringing and it usually means your movements are too fast for the mechanics of the machine. Since you are printing at 30 mm/s it is most likely the acceleration for the axis is too high. Drop it by half in the config.txt file.

Another issue I see and is probably the most serious is it appears you have some wobble in the Z axis. Either the Z screw is bent or the guides are bent or the glass is moving in the platform. The easiest way to see is open the manual controls and move the Z to the bottom then home it.

Watch the platform as it moves up and see if it moves back and forth at any time or in a straight line.. Then check the glass is secure and not moving. If the rods or screw show evidence of being bent or warped they will need to be replaced. Unless you want to try to correct the bend yourself which might make it worse.

Get the over extrusion fixed first. Those little blobs you have ever so often on the corners are caused by over extrusion and not layer shifting. That layer just squished out more than the one above and below it. Then print the same model again and we will take a look at it. Since it has those recessed letters you will need to double or triple your wall thickness from what it is now. That to may help to get rid of some of the issues.