XYZ da vinci 1.0 jr converted to ramps 1.4 - Z level problem (Page 1 of 3)

First, make sure you can move z axis on both direction. If your endstop cable is problematic or your endstop is burned, you can only move your z axis up but not down.

If your printer z axis move both direction, and home correctly, but move to 10mm above the bed before printing, change your z-offset with M206 gcode command.

https://airtripper.com/1799/marlin-firm … code-m206/

My speculation is you burned your z-axis endstop. I converted two Jr. to RAMPS, everyone burned z-axis endstop but not x-axis or y-axis. I read two different guides on how to convert Jr. to RAMPS, at least one of them mentioned burned z-axis endstop but not x-axis or y-axis. The other guide used mechanic endstop.

I dissambled a cheap old inkject printer that run out ink (which is expensive), and used the optical endstop on my z-axis. If you don't have access to that, you can use the part from broken or old computer mouse that have middle wheel, or order one online. or switch to mechanic endstop.

When I test my machine for the first time, I also thought everything is fine except my z-axis not moving on one direction. I thought some setting in Marlin is wrong. After long struggling, it turns out the cable is not reliable.

He converted Jr. to RAMPS box and even use da vinci factory endstops which involves soldering two resistance in certain way and relative complicated wire making. So I assume he can handle this. I think it is just some possibility he did not anticipated get in his way, that's why I give him list of possibility of thing that can went wrong.

I also advice people not to mess with their machine if it is not broken.

1cm higher is very odd, you don't usually get to that range of z-offset adjustment. Assuming you did not change your hotend or modify your glassbed. Please post configuration.h from your Marlin code or Repetitor-firmware and the startup gcode of your slicing software.

Also a picture of inside of your printer will be very helpful if the above method did not work. sometimes a cable or something else you added to the printer can prevent the z-axis from coming down after raising and move to the printing area. This happen to me once after I changed the hotend to E3D. Changed everything in setting still can not lower the nozzle because something else in the back touched the glass bed first and stop the nozzle to come down further.

I used Anthem's setting for Marlin, his setting for Z-axis is -1.8mm, I converted two Jr. the z-offset after fine tune is +-0.4mm
If you convert Da vinci 1.0, the print bed is adjustable, so 6mm is not surprise, but Jr. bed is not adjustable, the difference should be very small. Unless he modified his print bed or the hotend or the endstop position, I don't see why he will have 10mm in error.

Ok, this is all make sense now.
Change
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS -12.5
to
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS -1.8

you still need to fine tune the z-offset with M206 command, but should increase/decrease 0.2mm at a time.

Also your extruder step is too high, might have over-extrusion problem and 2nd layer shift problem.
change
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 88, 80, 2560, 155 }
to
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 88, 80, 2560, 88 }

This value ususally range from 80-88, you have to fine tune on your own machine, if you get a lots of click noise from extruder, this value is too high. if you infill have gaps, increase this value.

hi, now my nozzle get clogged when printing something..... i set the extruder steps to 84mm to reduce the clicking nouse but after set from 155 as before to 80-88 now my nozzle get clogged.. what could be happening?

on the other hands just in case which nozzle and extruder could work better that the factory for upgrading?

My Printer Heat Break Hotend Throat Tube Pipes is bad.. ... the teflon tube that is inside this part is broken...

I did this, now is time to setup again i think. Is a e3d as your advise.. it is cool, and comes with differents nozzles feom 0.2 to 0.8mm. I have just one 3d printer so i cant print parts until the one i have works. I had to mod the quick release hotend and it is looks good so far. Hope works well

Just realize, if you blow the heat towards to mount you may have an issue with melting the belt.

It is to fat from the belt, cos is inside the factory housing  and after that the release part.

This is what happening to me now, i have to replace the z-min cos the new hotend is installed  taller than the original, and hit the bed at ghe beginning.. heheh