yizhou.he wrote:

The print quality looks good, even without layer cooling fan. I don't think you will regret the conversion.

This is the fan I used, very expensive but very powerful and quiet. I put it on stock hotend and fan 100%, the stock hotend unable to heat above 210C. Works great with full metal E3D clones. Fan 75% is good enough and further reduced noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS … &psc=1

Yeah i wont regret the conversion, and ill buy one of those fans.
Now im printing the full lcd screen housing cos i have the big one, and some filament roll holder.

I really appreciate  your help man. Thanks

For free from a few broken cisco swtiches.. i will look for some information about them but there are quiet and blow air very nice.

Update:
They are faster, they are 7000rpm.

https://www.digikey.in/product-detail/e … ND/5424917

The print quality looks good, even without layer cooling fan. I don't think you will regret the conversion.

This is the fan I used, very expensive but very powerful and quiet. I put it on stock hotend and fan 100%, the stock hotend unable to heat above 210C. Works great with full metal E3D clones. Fan 75% is good enough and further reduced noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS … &psc=1

Yeah i wont regret the conversion, and ill buy one of those fans.
Now im printing the full lcd screen housing cos i have the big one, and some filament roll holder.

I really appreciate  your help man. Thanks

ingdonovan wrote:

yizhou.he wrote:

That will be my last option to do this, but whatever, as long as it works.  I think it did not work may due to the fact that you are not using absolution position, but I am not sure whether turn on absolution will mess up your 15.7 mm z-offset.

Congratulations, your Jr. is back to working now. Still, some small things that can be improved.

1. Your printing speed is too fast for such small object without layer cooling fan.  I would recommend 20-30 mm/s until you print out a layer cooling fan mount and installed it.

2. The infill is low, and number of top layer is too few. I would recommend 4 layer for your infill setting, and can be reduced to 3 layer if infill>40%

3. Double check your nozzle size is 0.4 mm not 0.5 mm. I somehow feels the string come out of the nozzle is too big but I can be wrong. Judge by size on video may not be accurate at all but does hurt to double check.

4. Lower the motor current, the noise seems too high, but I can be wrong, the sound can be amplified in the video. If the noise does not brother, then don't worry about it.

Ok, time to put the case back and print out a real E3D mount and layer fan mount, but I don't know if you want to install it right now since you work so hard to get current setting works. But it doesn't hurt to print out some backups.

I wilm see everythhing that you said, but i have another problem that im trying to fix before tune everyrhing, my coordinates are not centered..

Here is where my printer start printing and not at the center of the bed.

Mmm...

That's expected, Jr. x axis moving range is 180mm, but bed is from 30mm to 150mm, left 30 mm is where hotend parking when homed

y axis ranges 170mm, bed is 20mm to 170mm. therefore, center of your bed will be 30+150/2=105mm instead of 180/2=90mm for x axis. and 20+150/2=95mm instead of 170/2=85mm

you should change bed shape setting in your slice software to account for the difference

This is the setup  that works and allow me to use the full print area.

This is the fan I used, very expensive but very powerful and quiet. I put it on stock hotend and fan 100%, the stock hotend unable to heat above 210C. Works great with full metal E3D clones. Fan 75% is good enough and further reduced noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS … &psc=1

Err...Did not see what's wrong with it, everything looks normal...

Yes is normal lol.. just showing hehehe.. i had to add a second fan to be able to print this part cos the filament jammed...

yizhou.he wrote:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958296

This is actually a E3D kits for monoprice mini printer. I only print out the fan mount part. It cools hotend and print at the same time, but you might want to upgrade your fan to >6500 rpm ball bearing fan.

I print it with PLA, works great.

If you prefer the dual fan solution, connect layer cooling fan to D9 and hotend fan to fan port. Double check manual for your RAMPS board to make sure the fan port provide 5V power or 12V power and choose the fan accordingly.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,284204

Excellent i'll see if print this one for single fan or another one for dual fan.

yizhou.he wrote:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958296

This is actually a E3D kits for monoprice mini printer. I only print out the fan mount part. It cools hotend and print at the same time, but you might want to upgrade your fan to >6500 rpm ball bearing fan.

I print it with PLA, works great.

If you prefer the dual fan solution, connect layer cooling fan to D9 and hotend fan to fan port. Double check manual for your RAMPS board to make sure the fan port provide 5V power or 12V power and choose the fan accordingly.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,284204

Excellent i'll see if print this one for single fan or another one for dual fan.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958296

This is actually a E3D kits for monoprice mini printer. I only print out the fan mount part. It cools hotend and print at the same time, but you might want to upgrade your fan to >6500 rpm ball bearing fan.

I print it with PLA, works great.

If you prefer the dual fan solution, connect layer cooling fan to D9 and hotend fan to fan port. Double check manual for your RAMPS board to make sure the fan port provide 5V power or 12V power and choose the fan accordingly.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,284204

Excellent i'll see if print this one for single fan or another one for dual fan.

This is actually a E3D kits for monoprice mini printer. I only print out the fan mount part. It cools hotend and print at the same time, but you might want to upgrade your fan to >6500 rpm ball bearing fan.

I print it with PLA, works great.

If you prefer the dual fan solution, connect layer cooling fan to D9 and hotend fan to fan port. Double check manual for your RAMPS board to make sure the fan port provide 5V power or 12V power and choose the fan accordingly.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,284204

ingdonovan wrote:

yizhou.he wrote:

check if you step/mm setting for X and Y axis and motor current first, that will be my top suspect. I would not worry about stuff you have not touched to looking for the cause, it is likely changes during the RAMPS conversion caused it.

Yes rhe steps are differents as i see at the configuration.g... x=88 and y=80 heheh. Maybe this is the problem...

This will definitly cause some problem. that explain why you x axis runs longer. suppose be about 10%. you can change it on LCD and save to eprom.

yeah this was the problem, is fixed now, and i  have the board relocated and installed at the bottom of the printer.. anyway i need to make the printer print in the middle of the bed xD let me se what you said before about that.

but one question this hotend needs 2 fans in the extruder? one for the hotend and one for the printing filament? if this is the case i have to connect the second fan in the same place? i have the hotend on connected to the Pin D4 for control.

yizhou.he wrote:

check if you step/mm setting for X and Y axis and motor current first, that will be my top suspect. I would not worry about stuff you have not touched to looking for the cause, it is likely changes during the RAMPS conversion caused it.

Yes rhe steps are differents as i see at the configuration.g... x=88 and y=80 heheh. Maybe this is the problem...

This will definitly cause some problem. that explain why you x axis runs longer. suppose be about 10%. you can change it on LCD and save to eprom.

check if you step/mm setting for X and Y axis and motor current first, that will be my top suspect. I would not worry about stuff you have not touched to looking for the cause, it is likely changes during the RAMPS conversion caused it.

Yes rhe steps are differents as i see at the configuration.g... x=88 and y=80 heheh. Maybe this is the problem...