Workbench stock hotends leaking

Let's figure a way to fix them or replace them with something better.

note: no picture in your last post

That just looks like a hole for a set screw. Just measure and get the right size then put it while it's how to make a good aseal and it should stop your drips..

Wardjr, I agree.  It seems to me if the extruder is working correctly, the only place plastic can come out is the end of the nozzle.  It shouldn't be able to leak up this high, even if the hole is there.  If plastic is getting to the hole, it means that it can build up inside the head and contaminate other colors when I swap filament.   The link to the video I posted in the OP shows the same hole in the heater block, so I suspect you will find it on yours as well.  I had to remove some insulating tape from my head to see what was going on.  Even in the Solidoodle instructional videos, that tape is not there, so I'm guessing its not really needed.

Order from Filastruder. Most of the ones you find on Amazon are inferior clones and are known to cause more problems than they fix

Do I need the 12V 1.75MM Universal without the Bowden extras for this Thingaverse mounting?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805681

Thanks,
Chuck

Is your question, how to make the physical connection of the wires?  Or are you asking what goes where?

You really want to follow the instructions and use the crimp connectors as shown...the connection is still considered to be rather close to the hot end, and remember that solder melts at around 210C...Some also maintain you stand a chance of altering the resistance to the thermistor circuit, and since a thermistor works by changing its resistance based on the surrounding temperature, well...you're better off with the crimp tubes. 

Once all the wiring is complete and you wish to insert plug-in connectors, then do it farther up the line.  The wiring directly around the finished and mounted hot end should be secured with zip ties to limit movement of the connections.

Azerate,
I do have a workbench.
So you mean use as much of the wire in the existing harness as I can, and attach the E3D to it directly. Don't use the red and black wire supplied, and hook the thermistor directly to the wiring harness?

Once again, thanks to the people posting for your help.

After pulling back the webbing around the cables, I see disconnect connectors.  I'm going to target those for my cable extensions.  That makes the thermistor connector easy, because the supplied connector matches the Solidoodle connector, That leaves on the heater cables to sort out.  I will probably solder splice to the existing wires so I can keep the connectors.  I will have to get some heat shrink tubing.