<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/topic/13163/workbench-stock-hotends-leaking/ Mon, 11 Jan 2016 19:48:44 +0000 PunBB <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113880/#p113880 chucks wrote:

After pulling back the webbing around the cables, I see disconnect connectors.  I'm going to target those for my cable extensions.  That makes the thermistor connector easy, because the supplied connector matches the Solidoodle connector, That leaves on the heater cables to sort out.  I will probably solder splice to the existing wires so I can keep the connectors.  I will have to get some heat shrink tubing.

You should check the rating on those connectors. For the thermistor it doesn't matter, but for the heater it needs to take 25W @ 12V (or 40W @ 12V if your cartridge has all-red wires instead of blue). It'll melt if it can't sustain that load.

]]> Mon, 11 Jan 2016 19:48:44 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113880/#p113880 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113745/#p113745 After pulling back the webbing around the cables, I see disconnect connectors.  I'm going to target those for my cable extensions.  That makes the thermistor connector easy, because the supplied connector matches the Solidoodle connector, That leaves on the heater cables to sort out.  I will probably solder splice to the existing wires so I can keep the connectors.  I will have to get some heat shrink tubing.

]]> Sat, 09 Jan 2016 23:01:15 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113745/#p113745 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113668/#p113668 For the heat cartridge wires run the new wires as long as you can.  If they are long enough to reach the board you can cut the originals a couple inches from the board.  This allows you to reuse the existing plug and keeps the splice away from motion.  For the thermistor you'll need to reuse most of the original wires and use ferrules to crimp to the new thermistor.  As always, proper strain relief is crucial to prevent your crimp or splice from breaking due to excess motion.

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 23:34:34 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113668/#p113668 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113659/#p113659 Azerate,
I do have a workbench.
So you mean use as much of the wire in the existing harness as I can, and attach the E3D to it directly. Don't use the red and black wire supplied, and hook the thermistor directly to the wiring harness?

Once again, thanks to the people posting for your help.

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 22:47:07 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113659/#p113659 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113650/#p113650 Soldering is not necessary to assemble the E3D unless you are cannibalizing your old plug for the heater.
Some boards vary...some use screw terminals and others require plugs. But if you are using a Workbench with a stock board, which would be a Printrboard, you will want to cut the old wires a few inches away from the plug, slip on some heatshrink, then solder the wires and seal with the shrink.

There is no polarity for the heater or thermistor.

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 21:54:40 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113650/#p113650 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113648/#p113648 You really want to follow the instructions and use the crimp connectors as shown...the connection is still considered to be rather close to the hot end, and remember that solder melts at around 210C...Some also maintain you stand a chance of altering the resistance to the thermistor circuit, and since a thermistor works by changing its resistance based on the surrounding temperature, well...you're better off with the crimp tubes. 

Once all the wiring is complete and you wish to insert plug-in connectors, then do it farther up the line.  The wiring directly around the finished and mounted hot end should be secured with zip ties to limit movement of the connections.

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 21:50:43 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113648/#p113648 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113643/#p113643 I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, and the kit comes with crimp connectors.  I guess my question is , Is it recommended to solder the new hardware into the harness, or use detachable connectors, and if so, what is recommended.  The instructions I am using for assembly are here: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 21:10:31 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113643/#p113643 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113631/#p113631 Is your question, how to make the physical connection of the wires?  Or are you asking what goes where?

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 16:23:41 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113631/#p113631 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113630/#p113630 I got my new E3D hot ends. It's fiddly work assembling them.  How should I connect the wiring?

]]> Fri, 08 Jan 2016 16:21:34 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113630/#p113630 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113036/#p113036 Do I need the 12V 1.75MM Universal without the Bowden extras for this Thingaverse mounting?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805681

Thanks,
Chuck

]]> Fri, 01 Jan 2016 17:26:27 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113036/#p113036 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113026/#p113026 Agree with AZERATE - definitely order from an authorized dealer - do NOT buy on Amazon, or eBay.

Filastruder is one of those authorized dealers and you can rest assured you are getting the real deal, and elmoret is a good guy to deal with. smile

]]> Fri, 01 Jan 2016 14:55:49 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113026/#p113026 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113022/#p113022 Order from Filastruder. Most of the ones you find on Amazon are inferior clones and are known to cause more problems than they fix

]]> Fri, 01 Jan 2016 13:08:01 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113022/#p113022 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/113019/#p113019 I have decided to upgrade my hot ends with E3D V6.  I will be using this mount

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805681

Which model of the E3D V6 should I buy?

Where is a good place to buy it. I see prices all over the place from $20 to $80
https://www.google.com/search?q=e3d+v6+ … p;tbm=shop

]]> Fri, 01 Jan 2016 09:57:51 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/113019/#p113019 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/112491/#p112491 Wardjr, I agree.  It seems to me if the extruder is working correctly, the only place plastic can come out is the end of the nozzle.  It shouldn't be able to leak up this high, even if the hole is there.  If plastic is getting to the hole, it means that it can build up inside the head and contaminate other colors when I swap filament.   The link to the video I posted in the OP shows the same hole in the heater block, so I suspect you will find it on yours as well.  I had to remove some insulating tape from my head to see what was going on.  Even in the Solidoodle instructional videos, that tape is not there, so I'm guessing its not really needed.

]]> Thu, 24 Dec 2015 06:01:24 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/112491/#p112491 <![CDATA[Re: Workbench stock hotends leaking]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/112490/#p112490 Maybe you could get by with plugging them but that doesn't seem right.  I'll get a chance tomorrow to get a closer look at mine.  Im sure we can come up with a better solution.

]]> Thu, 24 Dec 2015 05:43:01 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/112490/#p112490