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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Printable x and y carriage replacements (Level 2 - Techie Consumer)
Will it work with using all the rods that are stock on the printer with those bearings even though they aren't case hardened? Is there a certain type of lubricant to use with them?
Typically no, most switch the rods at the same time.
order 2 of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BB … ge_o01_s00
you can then cut them to the correct lengths using either an angle grinder or a dremel with a cut-off wheel using the old rods for getting the correct lengths. (you will get 2 pieces out of each one)
I have used these rods on both of my SD4s and have had no problems with them - one has had these installed for several months now and runs quite a bit - several hours a day 5-6 days a week - no signs of wearing yet. 
Right now I don't have a dremel but am looking to get one. Which one do you recommend?
personally, I use an off brand one - cheaper and has outlasted the branded version by far (burned out brushes on the branded one)
this one is very similar to what I have
same name, but mine came in a plastic storage case and had a flex shaft and stand included
I bought a refurbished sd4 and can't get a good print out of it at all. Looks like x axis were bent in shipping and a few printed pieces were laying in the bottom of the case. One of which was the z axis limiter screw. Needless to say when I plugged it in and found where parts went. But now nothing is printing well; layers aren't stable and plate constantly shifts. Anyways I'd really like some new carriages printed if somebody is willing to help me out with those parts since mines ooc for now, I'll pay costs of shipping, parts, and labor to 92649. Nothing like tearing down and rebuilding a brand new machine
Anyways I'd really like some new carriages printed if somebody is willing to help me out with those parts since mines ooc for now, I'll pay costs of shipping, parts, and labor to 92649. Nothing like tearing down and rebuilding a brand new machine
PM sent
Thanks for all the replies! It's great to see a community helping each other out! Much appreciated for all the assistance!
Located in Baltimore MD, looking for replacement carriages for my SD4 to be printed (using stock extruder) if the price is right.
Please PM if able to assist.
PM sent
Well I solved this problem. I looked at pictures and saw how the switch is mounted to the right carriage. I'm messing with wiring anyway (new fans) so I just pulled the X-axis switch wires back thru the conduit, and will put it on the right carriage.
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(original post:) So I'm rebuilding mine with the upgraded carriage parts and I've got gotten started and run into an issue. On the SD4, the x-axis limit switch is on the extruder carriage, and the stop is part of the right side Y carriage. There is no place to mount the limit switch on the extruder carriage, and no stop on the right carriage.
There are also no holes in the center top plate to allow the aluminum extruder bracket to bolt in place, but that's easily fixed with a drill..
Suggestions?
Skip the aluminum piece altogether and ditch the side fan, you don't need it. No one really knows why Solidoodle put that fan there. No need to drill extra holes in the carriage to support it, because it's not needed. It comes right off the motor with the bolts in the back.
Then how do I attach the extruder stepper motor to the center top plate?
My extruder will not bolt directly to the front of the extruder motor without a spacer (which is currently the plate)..
The long screws in the lower stepper motor holes go thru the extruder piece, thru the bracket, then into the motor. 
there is a different top center plate on thingiverse designed specifically for the SD4 to address the endstop issue
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:682970
before that one came out, i made an adjustable mount for use on my SD4 that attaches to the back of the original center top plate.
Hehe.. thank you. Of course there's a part out there, now that my printer is torn apart!! Hehe.. Well I'll let everyone know how I solve it. I think I can just drill holes and bolt up from below to use the aluminum bracket.
Oh the comment about the side fan? I read a post about that being to prevent "heat creep" from the extruder damaging the non-metal parts/liner.
lol, yeah, having multiple printers, I forget that not everyone has the ability to print extra parts when one is out of commission...
if you need a part or two printed, just ask, one of us here would be happy to help out.
Solved
Any recommendations regarding extruder and bed temperatures after upgrading from a stock SD4 setup to e3dv6 setup?
Bed temps should stay the same (you haven't changed anything there!). For ABS it seems 90-100C is often advised.
Extruder temp will change: the solidoodle stock hotends measure temperature in a different place to the E3D hotends. For ABS, the E3D will tend to be happy somewhere between 230 and 240C (which you'll note is a bit higher than the stock hotend temps, generally recommended 205-220C).
Of course, depends quite a lot on the filament, a little bit on the print speed, so experiment and see how you go.
what grob said.
the E3D v6 on my #1 SD4 seems to be happiest around 235-237C for ABS, and around 215C for PLA.
bed i usually run about 95-100C for ABS - depending on the size of the print, and 60C for PLA
as an example - this portal companion cube was printed at 237C on a 100C bed - Octave brand green ABS, 0.25 layer height at 45mm/s. the cube measures 1-1/16" square.
I take it a firmware upgrade is in order...... (said nervously )
yes, firmware adjustments are in order to upgrade to the E3D.
It really isnt as hard as it might seem and there are some excellent write-ups around here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515542
i upgraded my solidoodle 3 control board to a duet 2 maestro
my x axis was really noisy with the silent drivers so i wanted to try a different stepper motor to see if it was the stock nema14 making all the noise
so i decided to redesign the x carriage to mount a nema17 on there to try.
i first used the extruder stepper and that was worse then i used the z axis stepper and now its silent
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Printable x and y carriage replacements (Level 2 - Techie Consumer)
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